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- Mercedes-Benz C-Class: How to Remove Door Trim Panel
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
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DIY: interior trim replacement (long)
#29
Newbie
Likewise; thanks so much for such a detailed how-to. ![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
It's certainly given me the confidence to get stuck in myself, there's nothing there that looks too tough.
I'll be honest, I'm not going true carbon, I'm doing a 3M Di Noc wrap on my std aluminium trims.
I'm looking forward to getting home tomorrow and ripping the car apart!
Looking forward to seeing mine done, as I have cream leather and I've not yet seen the cream leather with carbon trim.
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
It's certainly given me the confidence to get stuck in myself, there's nothing there that looks too tough.
I'll be honest, I'm not going true carbon, I'm doing a 3M Di Noc wrap on my std aluminium trims.
I'm looking forward to getting home tomorrow and ripping the car apart!
Looking forward to seeing mine done, as I have cream leather and I've not yet seen the cream leather with carbon trim.
#30
Newbie
Manual.
Having the gearbox set in M-mode means gearchanges are controlled strictly by the paddles - no upchange, even when hitting the limiter.
The car will obviously make a downchange if the revs drop too low (where labouring or stalling would occur), but other than that, the driver is in strict control.
Having the gearbox set in M-mode means gearchanges are controlled strictly by the paddles - no upchange, even when hitting the limiter.
The car will obviously make a downchange if the revs drop too low (where labouring or stalling would occur), but other than that, the driver is in strict control.
#34
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Richmond Hill, ON
Posts: 50
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C63, GLK350
I finally wrapped mine. It looks awesome. It is different compare to the real carbon you ordered from Mercedes. The wrap looks more like BMW carbon style. It only cost me less than $150 to buy myself a big roll of sheets and 5 hours of my time to wrap this thing.
#35
Would you mind posting some pics
#36
Member
could you please post pics and mention where you bought the sheets? i want to re do mine if this looks much nicer
#38
Question - if I just wanted to replace the long aluminum trim piece on the door, behind the handle, would I still have to remove the entire panel to do so or would the tools pop it off?
#39
Member
The door piece is screwed on to the door panel and to access those screws the door panel needs to come off
#40
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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2017 991.2 Turbo PDK 2017 C63S Coupe Ceramic Brakes 2015 CLS63S AMG Full House
I stand to be corrected, but some company out there is manufacturing gloss finish carbon fibre vinyl, the scary part is how good it looks with the gloss over carbon depth.
Let us know if anyone has seen this?
Let us know if anyone has seen this?
#43
Door trim install (difficulty level = intermediate to advanced), major shout out to FUNKTION AUTO in Sterling, VA for letting me get back in their badass workspace, with their supercool tech, and follow the workflow. Also, to vic_viper whom I'm essentially copying. Sorry, no labels in the pics this time -- too much volume here.
Front door trim
Recommended extra parts on hand: rivets x 2 (PN: A000-991-79-40), orange paneling clips x ~10 (PN: A000-991-86-98)
Remove this thin molded plastic trim next to the lower portion of the window by the lock post. It's easiest to use a wedge tool to pry the trim's outside edge free from the door's metal edge (on outside of the car). Then pull out it's thicker base on the inside of the door.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2399.jpg)
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2401.jpg)
This will reveal this funky rivet (PN: A0009917940). It is square, with an inner pin and an outside lock. Pry out the inner pin turn it 90 degrees and reinsert it into the outer lock part (there's a center stripe across the front of both parts that guides you somewhat. This unlocks the outer part and you can then remove the whole rivet. NOTE: I did not find that one is able to reuse this rivet once it's removed ie I wasn't able to pull out the inner pin out after doing the above procedure.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2402.jpg)
Now remove the two screws under the arm rest w/ a T30 torx driver. This is the simple little part that I didn't figure out on my own causing me to fail.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2410.jpg)
Also remove pull out the plastic tweeter cover and foam piece underneath.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2411.jpg)
You can now pull out the door panel starting from the bottom -- find it's edge where it meets the painted metal of the door. You have to use considerable force, but controlled -- if not, you will damage more of the orange paneling clips (PN: A000-991-86-98) than you want. As noted by vic_viper, you want to preserve and keep intact all of these orange clips including their thin foam washer as best as you can as they provide a seal from the elements and maintain pressure for the airbag sensors. Use the pic below to figure out the locations to pull out the panel ie near each orange clip. You can use a wedge tool but get in close to the clip locations to avoid damage to the clips and panel itself.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2412.jpg)
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2429.jpg)
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2414.jpg)
The top of the door panel is rubbery and is kind of hinged onto the metal part of the door; you just pry it up and out. As you remove the entire door panel, the lock post comes out from under it's hole.
Undo the purple and blue harnesses shown below. Also unlatch the anchor for the locking mechansm by pulling it up; then slide out it's cable more proximally from it's guide.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2434.jpg)
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2435.jpg)
The door panel is now free; lay it upside down on a soft surface. Unscrew the 10mm hex bolts shown below for the long trim piece and seat control piece. The former will just come off after unscrewing.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2415.jpg)
For the seat control trim piece, remove the rubber sticker overlying it's white harness and undo both the white and blue harness. The trim piece along w/ the seat control mechanism (w/c is the back and butt control connected by some silver wire) can now be freed up from the door panel by undoing the trimpiece's tabs from the back of the panel -- a plastic frame will be left behind on the panel as shown below.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2417.jpg)
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2419.jpg)
The seat control trimpiece has a bunch of little tabs around it that need to be released with a small, thin screwdriver head. Use your new trimpiece or the pic below as a guide. Do not break any of these tabs (my CF piece was missing a tab) as it allows the seat control to sit flush against the trimpiece -- just take your time, it's a little tedious.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2421.jpg)
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2422.jpg)
Install your new long piece and seat control piece in opposite order from the above, replug the two seat control harnesses and recover the white one w/ the rubbery sticker.
Ensure that all orange panel clips with their foam washers are intact and anchored to the door panel's retaining posts (not into the metal door on the opposite end) -- replace with new clips if some are mangled. Reattach the purple and blue harnesses, the locking mechanism cable anchor and guide. Sort of hang the door panel onto the top of the metal door, putting the lock post through its hole. Line up the orange clips to their holes and bang close the panel with your hand. Work your way around the entire panel, bottom to top, banging at the location of the clips. You will know when each region fits "just right."
Use a new rivet (PN: A000-991-79-40) and replace it as noted above. Again note the marking "stripe" on top of the rivet to tell you it's locked position. Replace the plastic window trim.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2437.jpg)
If you made it this far, you are a better man than me actually -- but you're probably bleeding somewhere. Time 60-90 minutes for both doors, taking your time = GLORY!!
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2447.jpg)
Rear door trim
Essentially same as front door but a) you do not have to remove any window trim b) there is no locking rivet in the panel to remove/replace. Make sure you unscrew the torx screws below the armrest again; then pry open the panel as above. Don't forget to deal w/ the lock mechanism, purple/blue harnesses, and lock post as above. The blue wire you see below is the locking mechanism from the driver's door.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2458.jpg)
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2455.jpg)
Time = 30 min for both rear doors = GLORY!!
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2446.jpg)
Front door trim
Recommended extra parts on hand: rivets x 2 (PN: A000-991-79-40), orange paneling clips x ~10 (PN: A000-991-86-98)
Remove this thin molded plastic trim next to the lower portion of the window by the lock post. It's easiest to use a wedge tool to pry the trim's outside edge free from the door's metal edge (on outside of the car). Then pull out it's thicker base on the inside of the door.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2399.jpg)
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2401.jpg)
This will reveal this funky rivet (PN: A0009917940). It is square, with an inner pin and an outside lock. Pry out the inner pin turn it 90 degrees and reinsert it into the outer lock part (there's a center stripe across the front of both parts that guides you somewhat. This unlocks the outer part and you can then remove the whole rivet. NOTE: I did not find that one is able to reuse this rivet once it's removed ie I wasn't able to pull out the inner pin out after doing the above procedure.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2402.jpg)
Now remove the two screws under the arm rest w/ a T30 torx driver. This is the simple little part that I didn't figure out on my own causing me to fail.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2410.jpg)
Also remove pull out the plastic tweeter cover and foam piece underneath.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2411.jpg)
You can now pull out the door panel starting from the bottom -- find it's edge where it meets the painted metal of the door. You have to use considerable force, but controlled -- if not, you will damage more of the orange paneling clips (PN: A000-991-86-98) than you want. As noted by vic_viper, you want to preserve and keep intact all of these orange clips including their thin foam washer as best as you can as they provide a seal from the elements and maintain pressure for the airbag sensors. Use the pic below to figure out the locations to pull out the panel ie near each orange clip. You can use a wedge tool but get in close to the clip locations to avoid damage to the clips and panel itself.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2412.jpg)
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2429.jpg)
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2414.jpg)
The top of the door panel is rubbery and is kind of hinged onto the metal part of the door; you just pry it up and out. As you remove the entire door panel, the lock post comes out from under it's hole.
Undo the purple and blue harnesses shown below. Also unlatch the anchor for the locking mechansm by pulling it up; then slide out it's cable more proximally from it's guide.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2434.jpg)
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2435.jpg)
The door panel is now free; lay it upside down on a soft surface. Unscrew the 10mm hex bolts shown below for the long trim piece and seat control piece. The former will just come off after unscrewing.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2415.jpg)
For the seat control trim piece, remove the rubber sticker overlying it's white harness and undo both the white and blue harness. The trim piece along w/ the seat control mechanism (w/c is the back and butt control connected by some silver wire) can now be freed up from the door panel by undoing the trimpiece's tabs from the back of the panel -- a plastic frame will be left behind on the panel as shown below.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2417.jpg)
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2419.jpg)
The seat control trimpiece has a bunch of little tabs around it that need to be released with a small, thin screwdriver head. Use your new trimpiece or the pic below as a guide. Do not break any of these tabs (my CF piece was missing a tab) as it allows the seat control to sit flush against the trimpiece -- just take your time, it's a little tedious.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2421.jpg)
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2422.jpg)
Install your new long piece and seat control piece in opposite order from the above, replug the two seat control harnesses and recover the white one w/ the rubbery sticker.
Ensure that all orange panel clips with their foam washers are intact and anchored to the door panel's retaining posts (not into the metal door on the opposite end) -- replace with new clips if some are mangled. Reattach the purple and blue harnesses, the locking mechanism cable anchor and guide. Sort of hang the door panel onto the top of the metal door, putting the lock post through its hole. Line up the orange clips to their holes and bang close the panel with your hand. Work your way around the entire panel, bottom to top, banging at the location of the clips. You will know when each region fits "just right."
Use a new rivet (PN: A000-991-79-40) and replace it as noted above. Again note the marking "stripe" on top of the rivet to tell you it's locked position. Replace the plastic window trim.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2437.jpg)
If you made it this far, you are a better man than me actually -- but you're probably bleeding somewhere. Time 60-90 minutes for both doors, taking your time = GLORY!!
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2447.jpg)
Rear door trim
Essentially same as front door but a) you do not have to remove any window trim b) there is no locking rivet in the panel to remove/replace. Make sure you unscrew the torx screws below the armrest again; then pry open the panel as above. Don't forget to deal w/ the lock mechanism, purple/blue harnesses, and lock post as above. The blue wire you see below is the locking mechanism from the driver's door.
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2458.jpg)
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2455.jpg)
Time = 30 min for both rear doors = GLORY!!
![](http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc233/dockhoa/IMG_2446.jpg)
#47
MBWorld Fanatic!
Just in time for my OEM Carbon install
Great write up! I read it over before, but its good to have it close to the top of the forums!
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Great write up! I read it over before, but its good to have it close to the top of the forums!
#49
MBWorld Fanatic!
#50
Member