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At +52mm, u don't need to shave 3mm to make them +55mm. U should clear no problem as is.
Fair enough. Guess I can always just bolt them on and see. The only thing is, I'm afraid of ordering the tires (275/30/19 Michelin PSS), and then throwing the wheels on, and then having them rub. Is there any camber adjustment in the rear? From what I can gather, it's literally like down to a few MM which either rubs, or doesn't rub.
I plan on being relatively low? Essentially no wheel gap, something like this:
This is a 19x8.5 +45 / 19x10 +50 on 235/35/19 & 265/30/19 Michelin PSS setup, and he didn't rub. That's why I was thinking I might need to take it to a +55, to help offset that extra 10MM in tire-width.
Originally Posted by Mort
It is difficult to pin it down exactly when you are running tolerances this tight. I am running 19 x 10 ET +52 with MPSS 265/30/19 on my 2012 with KWV3 lowered all the way (~.75") and it rubs the fender joiner every now and then. Just a snick but a rub all the same and no rear passengers. I ran the same wheels on my 2010 lowered on H&R springs (~.75") and was able to run MPSS 275/30/19. I think you should be OK on the inner fender at ET+55. Keep an eye on the lines running to the fuel tank as they protrude the most into the inner fender area (right rear ahead of the axle).
Any photos of your car? The V3s only go down 0.75" all the way down? Weird how you rubbed with the 265s, but not on the 275s.
Originally Posted by Roswell
Mort, I find it strange that u can run the same wheels with 275 on ur pre-FL car no problem.. But u get slight rubbing with the same wheels on 265 with ur FL car.
Ride height & stiffness must play a role.
Does the Pre-FL have more "room"? I remember reading somebody said that it did? And the coupe vs sedan is slightly different too?
I'm not sure if pre-FL & FL are different, but regardless I still believe shaving 3mm off ur wheels is not the safest solution. If u are worry about rubbing, I would go 265 instead of 275.
2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
Originally Posted by Roswell
Mort, I find it strange that u can run the same wheels with 275 on ur pre-FL car no problem.. But u get slight rubbing with the same wheels on 265 with ur FL car.
Ride height & stiffness must play a role.
Meng, I find it a little strange as well. There are some differences that may account for it. The spring rates in the KWV3 may be different from the H&R lowering springs and the KW shock rates set differently from the OEM shocks. The ride height is close to the same but measured on different cars so it may not be exact. The KW says a max. drop of 1.2" on the rear but I only got a measured drop of 7/8" lowered as far as possible. The camber is similar at ~ -2.1*. It is just that what works on one car may not hold true for a different car when everything is set so close to the limits.
my preFL sedan was very different from my now FL coupe. I was able to run wider wheels and tires with more aggressive offsets on the preFL sedan than the FL couple.
example preFL sedan ran:
19x8.5 et35 with 245/35/19
19x10 et 55 with 275/30/19
never ever rubbed over anything.
FL coupe runs:
19x8.5 et40 with 245/35/19
19x9.5 et45 with 265/30/19
rubs over everything. the front much more so than the rear. My front tires come in contact with the fenders over almost every bump. I've done a lot of work to the fenders and it's much better but it will still rub.
both cars were on H&R springs and both cars ran the same Hankook tires.
anyone ever run into caliper clearance issues on stock brakes? coming from an sti, we had to pay special attention to spoke design or run the risk of the wheel not fitting over the caliper. it seems there is no shortage of wheel options for these cars, and the only limiting factor seems to be offset, tire size, fender rubbing, and some combination of the three. is that the case?
^^ spoke design is definitely a factor on our cars as well, some style like Vossen deep concave would not clear our BBK. Unfortunately our cars can't take much concavity.
and from what I've read, it's not wise or feasible to roll the fenders? is this also correct? the offsets of most wheels that have been posted seem so arbitrary. maybe everyone in the subie world just all ran the same sizes 18x9.5 +30/35/38 lol
and from what I've read, it's not wise or feasible to roll the fenders? is this also correct? the offsets of most wheels that have been posted seem so arbitrary. maybe everyone in the subie world just all ran the same sizes 18x9.5 +30/35/38 lol
i rolled, cut, and worked a grinder on my fronts. the rears are 2 pieces so if you try to roll they will probably split apart.
And.. shes on air. Heres a crapy cellphone pic.
Still not 100% satisfied with the front fitment. plan on going down to a 225/30 up front to lay the car out evenly when its aired out. will post more pictures soon
i rolled, cut, and worked a grinder on my fronts. the rears are 2 pieces so if you try to roll they will probably split apart.
you can definitely roll the rears it does take some grinding. I actually pulled my fenders instead of rolling them, and I just used a heat gun and some pressure to line up the rear bumper with the curve of the fender. Just be careful not to heat the bumper up too much, or youll melt it lol
so the process is not as simply as just heating the arch and bolting up a roller and going to town? what exactly needs to be grinded and are you just taking a dremel with a grinding wheel to it? this is a new concept to me.
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