Just for comparison's sake, when I look at the stock manifolds that came off of my car today, the inside welds look nearly identical to the MHP LTs, only much dirtier. Like I've stated before, it is the lighting that makes it look worse than it is.

According to my understanding, the manufacturing costs of these products only factors partially into the selling price. Most of the money of the selling price is to regain the amount of time and money the vendors spent on R&D of these products. Just like all new products developed for a small market, the costs will be high because there is simply not enough returns to balance out the costs. Thus, the high selling prices of performance parts for our cars. If the C63 was a mass-produced car that sells as frequently as Toyota Camrys, then more vendors will jump into the mix to try and capture some of that huge market--thus, creating competition and lower prices for us buyers. But in the end, what truly matters is whether to products we buy performs according to or above our expectations.

As for pricing, please contact Andy at MHP for any inquiries.

 

that may be the most coherent sentence ive read from you! haha ...im juss kidding, sort of

 

Been out of town and didn't have a chance to reply until today, but congrats on the LTs! I'm glad they arrived in time for our dyno session. I hope the install goes smooth for you...or maybe you already have them on, but looking forward to reading your post install reactions

 

Can you guys compare the sound differences between LT catted and not catted - nrgy and avenger?
Thanks

 

I'll be doing an independent sound test this Saturday.

 

Welcome back! The installation went well and as for my post-install reactions... I give it:

First of all, I wasn't there for the very first cold-start post-install, but I darn well wished I was! The guys at the shop said the sound was bouncing off all the walls and echoed in their ears so loudly that they had to turn it off almost immediately. But after it warms up, it's a very subdued. Then, when I feather the gas, it lets out the seductive growl that is oh-so-sexxy! And of course, WOT is fricken LOUD... BUT the sound is very thrilling and addictive from inside the cockpit. Outside the cockpit, however, that's an entirely different story. However, at cruising in Comfort mode or idling, you can't tell that it's modded. What I really LOVE is the fact that the car still retained some of that attractive throaty C63 exhaust note that we've all come to love...but this is only at partial throttle.

As for performance, man, I give it . All cars should come this way from the factory! On second thought, I take that back after reading that "C63 accident thread" from patrick. First gear pulls are so incredibly quick, you'll redline before your brain can register that flashing red display on your dash and tell your fingers (or hand) to react. Then 2nd gear goes by almost as quickly, but you won't be able to notice much because your brain will be in glued to the headrest. Third gear follows suit and by then, you will just realize that your mouth had been open the entire time. Fourth gear is the icing on the cake, because you'd invariably be at 120mph or more by then. When I was going from a dig in 1st with ESP off, the car fishtailed every single time.

And from a roll, the car just goes! Instant rocket booster! Honestly, the difference between this and just an ECU tune or stock is not even funny.


If nrgy's car is exactly how it sounds in the Forza clip, then mine is a bit louder. But in real life, it may be a different story. Of course, catless will be louder than catted, but by how much...we'll see.

I want decibel readings or it's . Haha.

Seriously, though...cover your ears when these cars are on the dyno. No joke.

 

The only drawback is that every law enforcement officer within 3 miles goes into active search mode whenever you nail it. This is not even a joke as my 9500ci gets many more signals after a quick burst of hyper drive.

 

MHP posts 95-105 rwhp gains/60-65 rwtq gains...

Are you guys seeing these numbers?

So, that means with a K1 tune, where I picked up about 45 rwhp and not much tq, I should expect another 50-60 whp and about the same tq (assuming the K1 tune "adjusts" nicely to the new hardware)?

If so, that means with a K1 tune and MHP LT headers, I should be throwing down near 470rwhp and 420rwtq--thats 570+ hp at the crank ?

That would be a great pickup for the money!

 

It's said that you should get the K2 tune with LTs. Don't know the differences between K1 and K2, timing, etc.., I guess. But I would be interested in what the K1 does with LTs as I have the K1.

 

Did you delete the pri cats, and everything past that is stock?

 

You should definitely get the ECU retuned to accommodate and fully exploit the potentials of a the long-tube headers. A K1 tune was not tuned for the increased air flow that is seen after the restrictive stock primary cats. As for increase of rwhp, I'll find out this Saturday what it really is after breaking in my car a bit.

Primaries and secondaries. Stock from the resonator back.

 

Welcome to the MHP "header group". The performance and response is incredible!

Beware of your hearing.

 

What did you say? I can't hear you over your car.

 

WHAT, HUH??

God I love this car!

 

If I'm paying almost 5k for a set of headers I would hope they would look as good as they perform.

I wish I took some pictures of my headers before I had them installed but they were very well made and even just nice to look at out of the box.

These aren't mine, but for example:

 

I see your point, but keep in mind that if the vendor polishes the headers to a crazy shine, like the one in the pic, that would increase cost and that cost would be undoubtedly pass on to the buyer and reflected in the selling price. The headers are great to look at, for sure...but if it's tucked in the engine bay that's tighter than spandex, I'd rather it not be polished and save some $$$.

 

The numbers listed above are real numbers but thats with the matching MHP V3 long tube tune. Its been proven that the K2 will work but in order to maximize the gains you need the tune that matches the headers. I just don't want anyone to be mislead by the numbers if/when they don't reach them with a different tune. Really just common logic but I wanted to clarify it.

 

The only difference between K1 tune and K2 tune is that K2 has the 02 sensor delete so you don't get any codes thrown on your dash from removing primary cats with their header package. Correct me if i'm wrong, but I'm usually not. lol

BTW decibels would be nice. I'm contemplating if the extra 500 for cats is worth it to decrease the noise just a tad or something more significant.

 

So, you could get LTs, and hi flow primary cats(cost you a few hp/tq) and K1 tune should work...that would be nice. I tire of shipping my ECU.

 

You still need K2 for o2 sensor delete.

 

So if that is the only ECU difference, perhaps Kleemann would be willing to offer a very cheap upgrade...most of the K2 upgrade costs come from the headers, etc...

Cory, what would it cost to send an ECU back for an O2 sensor delete (w/o shipping of course)?

 

I'm sorry, but I don't think this is accurate. I spoke with Cory prior to getting my K1 to K2 flash, and he stated that the timing and fuel parameters are different on a K2. Also, the day of my LT installation, the shop guys wanted to do a pre-install baseline run, but I didn't think it was a good idea. After placing a call to Cory, he confirmed that it was a BAD idea, unless I wanted detonation at WOT.

So, it would only be logical to deduce that the differences K1 and K2 maps are more than just a simple O2 CEL delete.

 

I'm glad someone knows what they're talking about around here.

 

Did he tell you why? I'd love to know the answer.

 

The K2 map runs a more aggressive ignition timing map on cars with headers which isn't safe for the stock manifolds, but as long as you drive conservatively to your installing shop, you'll be OK. No wide open throttle runs, and no heavy acceleration from a stop.