I put in WORK
05-07-2010, 06:44 PM
#51
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That's for sure. TÜV would never allow that
Note:
TUV is a German acronym for Technischer Überwachungs-Verein. TUV are German organizations that work to validate the safety of products of all kinds to protect humans and the environment against hazards. Automotive components must be approved by TUV in order to be sold and installed on road going vehicles in Germany. The requirements for TUV approval are very stringent
05-07-2010, 07:53 PM
#52
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That's a bummer 
Hope it'll work out !
Love the wheels - they're amazing. Great color choice - gunmetal rocks
!
Note:
TUV is a German acronym for Technischer Überwachungs-Verein. TUV are German organizations that work to validate the safety of products of all kinds to protect humans and the environment against hazards. Automotive components must be approved by TUV in order to be sold and installed on road going vehicles in Germany. The requirements for TUV approval are very stringent
Hope it'll work out !Love the wheels - they're amazing. Great color choice - gunmetal rocks
!Note:
TUV is a German acronym for Technischer Überwachungs-Verein. TUV are German organizations that work to validate the safety of products of all kinds to protect humans and the environment against hazards. Automotive components must be approved by TUV in order to be sold and installed on road going vehicles in Germany. The requirements for TUV approval are very stringent
05-07-2010, 08:06 PM
#53
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05-07-2010, 09:34 PM
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05-08-2010, 11:10 PM
#62
Well, after a trip to the tire shop today to get the tires mounted, it was discovered that the wheels (as they came) are NOT compatible with the TPMS that I bought. 
The hole drilled through the barrel of the rim is 90 degrees from the hole where the valve stems would come out on the face of the wheel. After calling around to 3-4 different ppl, I discovered that WORK wheels don't drill holes compatible for TPMS unless specifically requested by the customer (TPMS is not required in Japan). I thought I had mentioned that when I put in my order, but being that it was 6 months ago, I can't recall precisely. 
Anyway, I had to order a set of 90-degree or L-shaped TPMS adapters and reschedule another visit to the tire shop for next Tuesday.
Here's the product I ordered from WORK.
The hole drilled through the barrel of the rim is 90 degrees from the hole where the valve stems would come out on the face of the wheel. After calling around to 3-4 different ppl, I discovered that WORK wheels don't drill holes compatible for TPMS unless specifically requested by the customer (TPMS is not required in Japan). I thought I had mentioned that when I put in my order, but being that it was 6 months ago, I can't recall precisely. Anyway, I had to order a set of 90-degree or L-shaped TPMS adapters and reschedule another visit to the tire shop for next Tuesday.
Here's the product I ordered from WORK.
05-09-2010, 03:40 AM
#63
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C63 AMG
FWIW when my new wheels went on Dave at Status put an unmounted wheel on the balancer...it was nice to see the row of zeros. It was a different story with the OE TPMS sensors installed, however...seeing how many weights were necessary for balancing...plus Dave explained how important it was to try to place them out of sight for the best aesthetic result. Dave did a fantastic job but you might want to stay on top of yours as it looks like with the adapters you are adding even more weight to the same area.
05-13-2010, 10:55 PM
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Oi, when it rains, it pours.
More misfortune for me regarding these wheels, fellas...
First off, my TPMS adapters arrived quickly and as promised (thank you WORK) on Monday night. I took one out and made sure it fits the wheel and was compatible with the valve stems. It was very obvious how the adapters should go on, and this was with me having no prior knowledge in this field of TPMS, valve stems, and adapters. What's the point, you ask? The next day, I dropped off my wheels to the tire shop for the second time--this time with the TPMS adapters ready to go, so there should be no problem. The tech who was going to install my tires looked at them like they were alien technology. Even after I've demonstrated to them how this works by installing one adapter to a valve stem, attach the valve stem onto the rim, and finally attaching a TPMS sensor onto the entire assembly, they weren't convinced that it'll work. Mind you, this is a pretty reputable shop who does good work on a lot of Porsches and other cars.
Anyway, after me having to convince them that it will work, they went ahead with the tire installation. They said it would take about 1 hour to do--1.5 hours passed and I haven't heard anything from them. I began to get nervous, so I headed over to the shop. Two of the four wheels were done and laying there waiting for me--the third was getting mounted as I was there. I checked out the two finished wheels for any scratches or damage, and they were perfect. The third wheel was perfect, as well. As I was waiting for the last wheel, I heard something dropped in the vicinity of the tech as he was balancing my wheel. It was loud, and I got nervous. When the last wheel was finished, I went to inspect it, and lo and behold--a deep 3mm scuff on the shiny new lip! Calmly and politely, I called the manager and tech over to look at the wheel. They were cussing up a storm at how that could've happened. The tech said he dropped a "cone" while mounting and he thought it dropped straight to the ground, but apparently it scratched the rim. So, I asked what they proposed to do to fix the damage. The owner called around to a couple of wheel repair shops, and had me take the wheel to one down the street for them to fix it and he would pick up the bill. He was responsible about it and took accountability for the mistake, which was nice.
I dropped off the wheel to the repair shop, asked the owner of the repair shop how he was going to fix the damage, and he said they would sand it down and polish it back up. It was "not a problem" and it would be done by the next day. So, yesterday came, and I picked up the wheel right as they closed (I had to work). It was a bit overcast, so I couldn't see the lip in direct sunlight. That changed today...
As I took the rim out to clean and mount onto my car, I noticed an INSANE amount of swirls on the lip. There was also a very distinct line between the outer lip and the inner lip of the wheel. It was visibly obvious that there was repair done to the wheel and you could tell the half that was polished versus the part that was OEM. Terrible job. So, I called up WORK wheels to seek advice, and Jim (at WORK) told me the repair shop never should've sanded, buffed, nor polished the lip. It was brought to my attention that the lip on this wheel are anodized, NOT polished. He went on to explain what that process entails and said there are only a handful of shops nationwidethat has the capability to de-anodized and re-anodize wheels for repairing. Basically, my lip was ruined because once you polish an anodized wheel, that destroys any type of anodization the original lip had. On top of that, I'd have to keep polishing the wheel because it'll be more susceptible to corrosion, stains, and blemishes vs. anodized. Basically...FUBAR.
I could find a better shop to polish my lip so that there wouldn't be any swirls or that deep line between the polished half and the anodized half, but that would still make my lip "polished" instead of how it was originally meant to be--anodized. So, the only suitable option is to get a new lip from WORK. Oi. And of course, that would incur $$$ for the new lip, and the 40 bolts that was on each rim. Not to mention the cost to dismount the tires, disassemble the rim, put in the new lip, and resealing the pieces. This will be done at a MUCH more reputable shop, I've called them and they knew exactly what the method involved. I spoke with the owner of the tire shop and he agreed to pay for the new parts. Although, I didn't mention to him about the cost of the 40 bolts that are needed with the new lip. Oh, and the new lip won't be here until middle or late June...all this after having to wait from October till now for my rims. 
And now, for the cherry on top...
I figured I'd mount the wheels on my car anyway and enjoy it till at least June. After finishing up, I decided to take it for a test drive to set up the TPMS in the new wheels. SLOWLY, I backed out of my garage...then I heard a noise that went a little like *chung chung chung*. I said, "Oh $h1t" and immediately knew what happened. Like some of you have mentioned in this thread, the rear clearance between the wheel and calipers was but a hair... and the wheels SCRAPED THE CALIPERS as I backed out a few inches!!!
I immediately took off the rear wheels and remounted my stockers. Only the corners of the calipers were scrapped, the passenger side one more so than the driver side. SIGH. Basically, it's fine, as long as no one is sitting in the car.
I will be getting some H&R 5mm spacers tonight.
When it rains...it pours. The end.
More misfortune for me regarding these wheels, fellas...
First off, my TPMS adapters arrived quickly and as promised (thank you WORK) on Monday night. I took one out and made sure it fits the wheel and was compatible with the valve stems. It was very obvious how the adapters should go on, and this was with me having no prior knowledge in this field of TPMS, valve stems, and adapters. What's the point, you ask? The next day, I dropped off my wheels to the tire shop for the second time--this time with the TPMS adapters ready to go, so there should be no problem. The tech who was going to install my tires looked at them like they were alien technology. Even after I've demonstrated to them how this works by installing one adapter to a valve stem, attach the valve stem onto the rim, and finally attaching a TPMS sensor onto the entire assembly, they weren't convinced that it'll work.
Mind you, this is a pretty reputable shop who does good work on a lot of Porsches and other cars. Anyway, after me having to convince them that it will work, they went ahead with the tire installation. They said it would take about 1 hour to do--1.5 hours passed and I haven't heard anything from them. I began to get nervous, so I headed over to the shop. Two of the four wheels were done and laying there waiting for me--the third was getting mounted as I was there. I checked out the two finished wheels for any scratches or damage, and they were perfect. The third wheel was perfect, as well. As I was waiting for the last wheel, I heard something dropped in the vicinity of the tech as he was balancing my wheel. It was loud, and I got nervous. When the last wheel was finished, I went to inspect it, and lo and behold--a deep 3mm scuff on the shiny new lip! Calmly and politely, I called the manager and tech over to look at the wheel. They were cussing up a storm at how that could've happened. The tech said he dropped a "cone" while mounting and he thought it dropped straight to the ground, but apparently it scratched the rim.
So, I asked what they proposed to do to fix the damage. The owner called around to a couple of wheel repair shops, and had me take the wheel to one down the street for them to fix it and he would pick up the bill. He was responsible about it and took accountability for the mistake, which was nice. I dropped off the wheel to the repair shop, asked the owner of the repair shop how he was going to fix the damage, and he said they would sand it down and polish it back up. It was "not a problem" and it would be done by the next day. So, yesterday came, and I picked up the wheel right as they closed (I had to work). It was a bit overcast, so I couldn't see the lip in direct sunlight. That changed today...
As I took the rim out to clean and mount onto my car, I noticed an INSANE amount of swirls on the lip. There was also a very distinct line between the outer lip and the inner lip of the wheel. It was visibly obvious that there was repair done to the wheel and you could tell the half that was polished versus the part that was OEM. Terrible job. So, I called up WORK wheels to seek advice, and Jim (at WORK) told me the repair shop never should've sanded, buffed, nor polished the lip. It was brought to my attention that the lip on this wheel are anodized, NOT polished. He went on to explain what that process entails and said there are only a handful of shops nationwidethat has the capability to de-anodized and re-anodize wheels for repairing.
Basically, my lip was ruined because once you polish an anodized wheel, that destroys any type of anodization the original lip had. On top of that, I'd have to keep polishing the wheel because it'll be more susceptible to corrosion, stains, and blemishes vs. anodized. Basically...FUBAR. I could find a better shop to polish my lip so that there wouldn't be any swirls or that deep line between the polished half and the anodized half, but that would still make my lip "polished" instead of how it was originally meant to be--anodized. So, the only suitable option is to get a new lip from WORK. Oi. And of course, that would incur $$$ for the new lip, and the 40 bolts that was on each rim.
Not to mention the cost to dismount the tires, disassemble the rim, put in the new lip, and resealing the pieces. This will be done at a MUCH more reputable shop, I've called them and they knew exactly what the method involved. I spoke with the owner of the tire shop and he agreed to pay for the new parts. Although, I didn't mention to him about the cost of the 40 bolts that are needed with the new lip. Oh, and the new lip won't be here until middle or late June...all this after having to wait from October till now for my rims. And now, for the cherry on top...
I figured I'd mount the wheels on my car anyway and enjoy it till at least June. After finishing up, I decided to take it for a test drive to set up the TPMS in the new wheels. SLOWLY, I backed out of my garage...then I heard a noise that went a little like *chung chung chung*. I said, "Oh $h1t" and immediately knew what happened. Like some of you have mentioned in this thread, the rear clearance between the wheel and calipers was but a hair... and the wheels SCRAPED THE CALIPERS as I backed out a few inches!!!
I immediately took off the rear wheels and remounted my stockers. Only the corners of the calipers were scrapped, the passenger side one more so than the driver side. SIGH. Basically, it's fine, as long as no one is sitting in the car.
I will be getting some H&R 5mm spacers tonight. When it rains...it pours. The end.
05-13-2010, 11:06 PM
#68
wow, so sorry to hear about your wheel troubles but I do have one question. When you test fitted your wheels on the car did you try to rotate it one rotation so that it clears the caliper? If it did clear before tires were mounted I do not understand why would the wheel (or rather its face piece) would flex enough to catch on the brake caliper. I have a friend who has a 15' BBK kit that has 2mm clearance measured with gap tool and not once did it ever come in contact even on track with massive amounts of high speed torture braking.
05-13-2010, 11:24 PM
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pontiac firefly
wow, so sorry to hear about your wheel troubles but I do have one question. When you test fitted your wheels on the car did you try to rotate it one rotation so that it clears the caliper? If it did clear before tires were mounted I do not understand why would the wheel (or rather its face piece) would flex enough to catch on the brake caliper. I have a friend who has a 15' BBK kit that has 2mm clearance measured with gap tool and not once did it ever come in contact even on track with massive amounts of high speed torture braking.
..maybe the bump when backing out caused a little flex, or maybe it wasn't balanced properly(by the tire mounting guys) so it wobbled a bit and hit the caliper
it sucks that they messed up your wheels man
the wheel that hit the caliper was it the same one that they polished??
05-13-2010, 11:40 PM
#72
Ouch sorry to hear that. I remember when a repair shop repolished my Volk wheels that were anodized..
Don't the calipers move a little when brake force is applied? which is why you want more clearance..
Don't the calipers move a little when brake force is applied? which is why you want more clearance..
05-14-2010, 12:17 AM
#73
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C63 AMG
wow, so sorry to hear about your wheel troubles but I do have one question. When you test fitted your wheels on the car did you try to rotate it one rotation so that it clears the caliper? If it did clear before tires were mounted I do not understand why would the wheel (or rather its face piece) would flex enough to catch on the brake caliper. I have a friend who has a 15' BBK kit that has 2mm clearance measured with gap tool and not once did it ever come in contact even on track with massive amounts of high speed torture braking.
but remember this thing was "literally hair thin"
..maybe the bump when backing out caused a little flex, or maybe it wasn't balanced properly(by the tire mounting guys) so it wobbled a bit and hit the caliper
it sucks that they messed up your wheels man
the wheel that hit the caliper was it the same one that they polished??
..maybe the bump when backing out caused a little flex, or maybe it wasn't balanced properly(by the tire mounting guys) so it wobbled a bit and hit the caliper
it sucks that they messed up your wheels man
the wheel that hit the caliper was it the same one that they polished??
Both of my rear wheels scraped the caliper, but luckily, the face wheels weren't damaged.
Yea. It's been quite a day "off" for me.
05-14-2010, 03:36 AM
#75
MBWorld Fanatic!
Crazy turn of events
I really wanted to see how the car looked on WORK ... Well, hope it'll work out with spacers and you'll get the new lip earlier than in June
I really wanted to see how the car looked on WORK ... Well, hope it'll work out with spacers and you'll get the new lip earlier than in June
