should I break in?
10-19-2010, 01:09 PM
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should I break in?
Hey folks,
I am picking up my C63 tomorrow. Do I need to break in the engine? Like not passing 4k RPM, etc. Or should I just get an oil change earlier. Any ideas?
Thanks!
I am picking up my C63 tomorrow. Do I need to break in the engine? Like not passing 4k RPM, etc. Or should I just get an oil change earlier. Any ideas?
Thanks!
10-19-2010, 01:32 PM
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2021 Taycan Turbo, 2018 Radical SR3, 2021 Lincoln Aviator
Change the oil early (I think this is an obligation for C63 owners anyways) and I'd say test the car, but don't be too hard on the transmission. The transmission is the reason for the break in, not the engine. These engines have already been ran very hard in the testing phase by AMG.
10-19-2010, 02:07 PM
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'15 E63S wagon
This debate comes up every few months. Consider this...
* DO break-in, and risk nothing except testing your self control. The engine and transmission will wear in properly and the parts will have a better chance of lasting longer.
* DON'T break-in, and risk that everything will go ok...but if you have an engine that consumes oil, or a transmission that starts chirping or slipping 10k down the line, will it really be worth it?
Plenty of peeps here will respond "floor it from the 1st tank, it's fine b/c I did that and my car is fine" but why risk it? Just take it easy 1k miles and never look back.
* DO break-in, and risk nothing except testing your self control. The engine and transmission will wear in properly and the parts will have a better chance of lasting longer.
* DON'T break-in, and risk that everything will go ok...but if you have an engine that consumes oil, or a transmission that starts chirping or slipping 10k down the line, will it really be worth it?
Plenty of peeps here will respond "floor it from the 1st tank, it's fine b/c I did that and my car is fine" but why risk it? Just take it easy 1k miles and never look back.
10-19-2010, 03:13 PM
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2009 Subaru WRX & 2010 C63
This debate comes up every few months. Consider this...
* DO break-in, and risk nothing except testing your self control. The engine and transmission will wear in properly and the parts will have a better chance of lasting longer.
* DON'T break-in, and risk that everything will go ok...but if you have an engine that consumes oil, or a transmission that starts chirping or slipping 10k down the line, will it really be worth it?
Plenty of peeps here will respond "floor it from the 1st tank, it's fine b/c I did that and my car is fine" but why risk it? Just take it easy 1k miles and never look back.
* DO break-in, and risk nothing except testing your self control. The engine and transmission will wear in properly and the parts will have a better chance of lasting longer.
* DON'T break-in, and risk that everything will go ok...but if you have an engine that consumes oil, or a transmission that starts chirping or slipping 10k down the line, will it really be worth it?
Plenty of peeps here will respond "floor it from the 1st tank, it's fine b/c I did that and my car is fine" but why risk it? Just take it easy 1k miles and never look back.
10-19-2010, 05:44 PM
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i say run it hard. get the revs up and let her legs stretch. Just dont go banging hard on the trans the first 1k miles. theres plenty of guys who have proven hard break in makes more power.
10-19-2010, 05:46 PM
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08 S65, 06 M3 CS(stick), 02 BMW X5 4.6iS, 07 R1 Raven, 08 F-450 4x4, 08 CooperS JCW
Not saying you do necessarily, but guys who lease are 99% of the time the ones who give this advice about new cars. I always had good luck following the manufacturer's recommended break in procedure so the rear end and the rest can bed in...
10-19-2010, 05:56 PM
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CLK 63 Black Series, 2009 S550, 2011 Range Rover Supercharged, BMW F800 GS Anniv Edition
And btw - I've never leased a car in my life, so I'm not sure your 99% rule is entirely accurate.
Last edited by LZH; 10-19-2010 at 06:14 PM.
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10-19-2010, 06:41 PM
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until there is undeniable and substantative proof not just anecdotal, follow the procedure as defined by the manufacturer. They are the ones providing the warranty not us forum users.
10-19-2010, 06:49 PM
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08 S65, 06 M3 CS(stick), 02 BMW X5 4.6iS, 07 R1 Raven, 08 F-450 4x4, 08 CooperS JCW
Every street car I've ever owned from new has been driven hard from mile one and I've never had any major issues that could be attributed to my break in. In fact, with race motors, I've seen more failures from NOT driving them hard the second they hit the track. The only thing I like to do is vary the RPM's for the first hour and never let the motor stay at a constant RPM for more than a few minutes. That, and make sure you let it get up to operating temp before you see any high revs.
And btw - I've never leased a car in my life, so I'm not sure your 99% rule is entirely accurate.
And btw - I've never leased a car in my life, so I'm not sure your 99% rule is entirely accurate.
-Rob
10-19-2010, 07:05 PM
#11
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* DON'T break-in, and risk that everything will go ok...but if you have an engine that consumes oil, or a transmission that starts chirping or slipping 10k down the line, will it really be worth it?
from mototune on hard break in:
Although these pistons came out of engines which were raced for a full season, they weren't set-up with any special clearances or other preparation.
These engines were never worked on prior to being raced. They were totally stock as built by Honda.
The only difference was the break in method they used...
The one on the right was broken in as per MotoMan's instructions.
The one on the left was broken in exactly according to the owner's manual. The resulting leaky rings have allowed pressure to "blow by" down into the crankcase on acceleration, and oil to "suck-up" into the combustion chamber on deceleration.
These engines were never worked on prior to being raced. They were totally stock as built by Honda.
The only difference was the break in method they used...
The one on the right was broken in as per MotoMan's instructions.
The one on the left was broken in exactly according to the owner's manual. The resulting leaky rings have allowed pressure to "blow by" down into the crankcase on acceleration, and oil to "suck-up" into the combustion chamber on deceleration.
10-19-2010, 10:11 PM
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Audi Q7, C63
is it just me who got a sticker on the front windscreen saying to break in?
it read:
for the first 1500km dont go past 4.5k rpm and 145km/h
then after that steadily push the car higher
it read:
for the first 1500km dont go past 4.5k rpm and 145km/h
then after that steadily push the car higher
