should I break in?
* DO break-in, and risk nothing except testing your self control. The engine and transmission will wear in properly and the parts will have a better chance of lasting longer.
* DON'T break-in, and risk that everything will go ok...but if you have an engine that consumes oil, or a transmission that starts chirping or slipping 10k down the line, will it really be worth it?
Plenty of peeps here will respond "floor it from the 1st tank, it's fine b/c I did that and my car is fine" but why risk it? Just take it easy 1k miles and never look back.
* DO break-in, and risk nothing except testing your self control. The engine and transmission will wear in properly and the parts will have a better chance of lasting longer.
* DON'T break-in, and risk that everything will go ok...but if you have an engine that consumes oil, or a transmission that starts chirping or slipping 10k down the line, will it really be worth it?
Plenty of peeps here will respond "floor it from the 1st tank, it's fine b/c I did that and my car is fine" but why risk it? Just take it easy 1k miles and never look back.
And btw - I've never leased a car in my life, so I'm not sure your 99% rule is entirely accurate.
Last edited by LZH; Oct 19, 2010 at 06:14 PM.
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And btw - I've never leased a car in my life, so I'm not sure your 99% rule is entirely accurate.

-Rob
from mototune on hard break in:

These engines were never worked on prior to being raced. They were totally stock as built by Honda.
The only difference was the break in method they used...
The one on the right was broken in as per MotoMan's instructions.
The one on the left was broken in exactly according to the owner's manual. The resulting leaky rings have allowed pressure to "blow by" down into the crankcase on acceleration, and oil to "suck-up" into the combustion chamber on deceleration.
it read:
for the first 1500km dont go past 4.5k rpm and 145km/h
then after that steadily push the car higher




