Actually I saw this stuff on sale at Walmart for $3.79 a quart. I picked up a few and felt noxious while driving with it in my back seat. It kept emiting a glow and fumes...

 

Is it the FW thing?

http://www.royalpurple.com/theforumwars/index.html

 

Except with, millions of miles of testing in... an engine..... like Mercedes does, and then certifies oils based on that testing.

Great, happy for you, but that drag race car has an engine that lasts for a couple seconds, while blowing all of it's spark plugs and is rebuilt after that. A DD engine undergoes very different stresses, and requires different kinds of protection.

I still have yet to understand what the advantage is in running a non-approved oil is. You risk voiding your engine warranty at the risk of gaining exactly what???

 

Hang out, get comfy.... Next we shall commence an engine break-in discussion.....

 

^^ Hilarious and spot on...LOL

 

+1

Regular oil changes with 0w40 synthetic and you are fine. This will just cost you more money and give you a nice placebo effect.

 

I use it in my flux capacitor.

 

That would be great, cuz' I have questions. Also, my breaks squeek when i come to a stop? WTF? and how do I download my phonebook to the car? also, what tires are best for when it sometimes snows in the winter, but I want super grip at the 1/4 mile to? can I get a M+S drag radial? and finally, what tune should i get? And do i need an lsd?

 

LOL, careful not to hit 88 mph.

 

ROFL

Those were the days...

 

Here is the active 229.51 approved oils list
http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.51_en.html

Here is the active 229.5 approved oils list
http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.5_en.html

Page 2 here has a reference to M156 Engine. Basically says 229.5 and 229.51 0W-40 and 5W-40 only.
http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/d/d/en/Spec_223_2.pdf

Here you will find the temp spec table
http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/d/d/en/Spec_224_1.pdf

And for those of you with the LSD
http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/235.61_en.html

From their home page

 

Nice job sir. Just the facts.

 

Speaking of Motul, which one is better?

- Motul 8100 X-max 5W-40 - present on the official MB229.5 sheet, apparently disco, but still can be purchased.

- Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40 - apparently replaces the above X-max, and claimed to be MB229.5 approved http://www.motul-oil.co.uk/pdfs/synt...0_%28GB%29.pdf

- Motul 8100 X-clean 5W-40 - present on the official MB229.51 sheet http://www.motul-oil.co.uk/pdfs/synt...S_%28GB%29.pdf

 

Lord help me if that could be the case except on "off topic"

 

Thanks for putting up what I was too lazy to do. Excellent resources.

I think that what people need to do is review these lists, and then when the "finest oil anywhere in the world" is not on the list, ask themselves "Dozens of oils from many different companies have gotten their oils approved by M-B. Why hasn't my oil been approved?" The fact is, there are so many approved oils available that it is just silly to use Imperial Blue or the oil your neighbor sells out of the back of his Tahoe. They are probably fine oils, but why take the chance - however small - that if something goes wrong for some totally random reason your choice of oil voids your warranty? Is your neighbor going to fork over $30,000 for a new motor? Was it worth the $0.85 per quart you saved?

And a company claiming that their oil "meets" 229.5 is not the same as M-B "approving" that oil for 229.5.

I'm just saying. . .

 

switched about half a year ago. seems to be doing well. i just bought more to do an oil change tomorrow and thought i would share.

 

Engine builders in modern world have some calculations before building a engine so the excess loads will be avoided. There is no sense using test for high load applications for engine oils where high viscosity and load carrying additives have a bad impact on energy effeciency, pumpability, emission system compatibility etc..
For racing engines like in Drag Racing this could be different

 

Just imagine the performance gains of using Royal Purple engine oil PLUS K&N filters. I bet you could walk a Veyron with those mods.

 

Only works if you put their stickers on the car exterior.

 

An old thread I guess.....but geez....."Oils".....as per the old Castrol "slogan" .."Oils Ain't Oils".....everyone's got an "opinion" haven't they?!
Me?.....I just stick with what the manufacturer says.....had a RS Focus Turbo which recommended Castrol, with our HSV LS2 GTO Coupe it was Mobil 1, as it is with the C63.
So yep, I just leave it up to the manufacturer.....and I've never had an oil related problem.
Cheers, Pickles.

 

Tru dat

 

I use Mobile 1 in all my engines. When serviced at appropriate intervals (this doesn't always mean as per service light) I've never seen issues.

My 190D used Mobil 1 since new, burns less than 1L per 10k kms using 0w-40.

Here are some pics from when I took the head off a few yrs back.

Also have a read of this.
http://lubesdirect.com.au/technical-...t-performance/

Use anything you like in your engine but I know what's going into mine.

 

Don't forget, "should i get a coupe or a sedan." this thread is so funny.

 

These bogus machines have been around a long time. They are not a proper ASTM approved Falex wear tester. I first saw one in 79 when I became an Amsoil dealer and we were all worked up because some of the additive people were using them to show how good their additives were. They were "proving" their additives were the best and all our oils were inadequate. We finally found a guy that owned one of these and he brought it over for us to play around with. He showed us how they did their tricks. You can make any oil look good and any oil look bad. Some machines used weights and some used torque wrenches to apply the pressure. It came down to how long you ran the bearings unloaded and how fast or slow you added the weights or applied the pressure.
The most amazing thing was the guy who owned the machine had this little bottle of stuff that looked just like clear water. As soon as he put a little in any oil or only put the water stuff in the cup, the bearing could take the full load and in fact we even pushed on the lever to add more pressure and it would not seize. We were pushing on the lever until the machine was tipping and the bearing would not seize. Even after the cup was drained and the particular bearing was wiped off, we coudn't use that spot on the bearing for a test again because with any oil put in the cup it would not seize. Once that water stuff was on the metal only rubbing with some emery paper would get it off.

With a proper ASTM Falex or 4 ball wear test the machines control load application and keeps it consitent.
Some of the comments here are correct, viscosity is not relative to load or film strength. We saw that the water thin stuff carried the highest load while that STP honey thick **** was lousy.
Extremely high load carrying ability is not necessary and load carrying/antiwear performance is only one of many factors that makes a good oil.

Some posters here say that they have run a particular oil for a few thousand miles and their engines liked it, etc. That doesnt mean anything. I wish my engine could talk and tell me what it likes but my engine doesn't speak.
Show me hundreds of detailed analysis reports, particulary after the various oil brand has been run for 50,000 miles or more on that one change in extreme conditions.
Does it hold its viscosity, does it control deposit formation and keep the engine clean, does it have low volatility and not need topping up all the time, does it not damage seals, etc.
Just share with us some facts instead of emotion based opinions. It also gets so old hearing the "Owners manual jockeys" parroting the same message, "You can only use Mobile 1 5-30 blah blah blah. It seems Mobils money was well spent.

Cheers

 

Sounds like the dyno needs to be re calibrated thats all. Those things can get out of wack if they aren't maintained and calibrated correctly.