C63 AMG (W204) 2008 - 2015
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Old Jun 4, 2015, 07:32 PM
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 02:43 PM
  #26  
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2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
Originally Posted by intence
besides that passenger rear corner, which other corners contain brake pad sensors?
Passenger side outboard pads front and rear.
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 03:11 PM
  #27  
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perfect thanks!
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Old Sep 28, 2013 | 04:25 AM
  #28  
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Just purchased some Porterfield R4-S for my rears. With this DIY, the installation was quite simple...I had a few friends help out since it was my first time changing pads, and they've done it before. Took about two hours, but we were taking our time. It should take about an hour next time.

The Porterfields feel good, but I haven't pushed them hard yet. However, the initial bite from the oem pads isn't quite there. It feels like I have to push a little bit farther on the brake pedal with the Porterfields before you feel the car braking. But once they do, it stops.

Hopefully, these will last me a while since I mainly do highway/street driving; never on a track.
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Old Aug 7, 2014 | 03:56 PM
  #29  
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Great DIY. Looks pretty simple to do. I'll probably have to be doing this soon so glad I stumbled across this.
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Old Aug 8, 2014 | 04:37 AM
  #30  
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+1
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Old Oct 2, 2014 | 01:57 AM
  #31  
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I'm looking into Akebono's or Ebc Red's but the pads I see don't have the eyelets for the pins to slide through, am I looking at the right pads? they all say compatible for a 2009 c63. Is there something that I'm missing?
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Old Oct 2, 2014 | 10:40 PM
  #32  
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Do you have the part number for the pads?
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 02:38 PM
  #33  
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Out of curosity, are folks in this thread not removing their rotors to get machined when replacing pads?
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 08:56 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by QWKSNKE
Out of curosity, are folks in this thread not removing their rotors to get machined when replacing pads?
....or measuring for Min Thickness of the rotors to make sure they are still in spec?

Last edited by skytow; Jan 21, 2015 at 08:58 PM.
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 09:54 PM
  #35  
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Personally, I'd use a centre punch to knock the pins out and ceramic anti-squeal instead of that copper stuff (which you DO NOT want on your hands). That's how I do it on customer cars.

But, good writeup!
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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 12:43 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by ToXicXxX
Personally, I'd use a centre punch to knock the pins out and ceramic anti-squeal instead of that copper stuff (which you DO NOT want on your hands). That's how I do it on customer cars.

But, good writeup!
Yup...an (ideally 12") 5/32 punch is a must have tool...use it to center the farthest pad when reinstalling the pin. In between, use the handle side to depress a piston and keep it there.
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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 09:56 AM
  #37  
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this should be a sticky.

great writeup.
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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 09:38 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by bhamg
Yup...an (ideally 12") 5/32 punch is a must have tool...use it to center the farthest pad when reinstalling the pin. In between, use the handle side to depress a piston and keep it there.
Every man should have a set of Mac punches So useful.
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 03:38 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by BFNYM156
U did well on the rotors, Did you track at mosport? Moport is very flowing, doesn't harm brakes too bad, I installed a new set of oem front rotors and endless MX72 with only 2000km hwy driving plus one day at Mosport and Mid-Ohio. After last Mid-ohio, my front brakes are completely destroyed by Mid-ohio. Front rotors are cracked along the drilled holes and warped. But I was pushing hard and ******* with F430 race car and C5Z06, trailbraking alot. I just ordered XP10 for front today and racing brakes rotors, hope they can do better
Very nice track set up . Can I see some pics of your car with ccw's , I've never seen anybody with a set up that wide before!
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Old Feb 8, 2015 | 08:40 PM
  #40  
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Sub'd
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 08:46 PM
  #41  
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I just replaced my front pads today. Amazingly simple - about 30 min for both sides (507 with performance package). I got stock pads for about 210$ online. I even splurged and picked up a new wear indicator from the dealership on the way home from work today - 15$.


Pedal feel improved right away, I felt it immediately.


No reason whatsoever to have this done by a mechanic. Between buying parts online at wholesale and doing the work myself, I just saved 200$ in 30 min....


:-)
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 09:30 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by jsumida
I'm looking into Akebono's or Ebc Red's but the pads I see don't have the eyelets for the pins to slide through, am I looking at the right pads? they all say compatible for a 2009 c63. Is there something that I'm missing?
hi
do you have part number for akebono pads there agent in australia claims they do not have pads fo C63 sedan. i have used akebono pads on my prev. amg cars & very happy with them thanks
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 11:55 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by skytow
....or measuring for Min Thickness of the rotors to make sure they are still in spec?
In my experience, measuring the min thickness is important so you know if it is time to replace them. But machining the rotors doesn't typically need to be done, it takes away more heat sink material (leading to more chance of warping), has to be smoothed out by the new pads, and in the case of our cross-drilled and slotted rotors is a huge pain for the shop to do correctly. On my RX-7 (my C63 is too new to me to state anything about it directly) I prefer to run the rotors through 2 sets of pads including track days and then replace them as consumable items.
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Old Apr 25, 2015 | 11:04 AM
  #44  
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Performance package rotors are 36 mm thick new and need to be replaced when found to be below 34 mm during a service, but no later than at 33.4 mm.
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 12:35 PM
  #45  
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I will be doing this the weekend after this one. On the fence between ordering Porterfield pads or OEM. I hate the amount of dust from OEM but I heard Porterfield lose initial bite. Endless MX are too expensive for only going to one or two HPDE events.
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 01:04 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by ENV²
I will be doing this the weekend after this one. On the fence between ordering Porterfield pads or OEM. I hate the amount of dust from OEM but I heard Porterfield lose initial bite. Endless MX are too expensive for only going to one or two HPDE events.
It's always a toss up with these things. The Endless are expensive, but I just didn't want dust nor could I live with less feel, bite etc. You can get some good deals emailing vendors though. My buddy owns a shop called Speedfreaks and I'm sure if you emailed them, he could hook you up. No promises though, but could be worth a shot.

I've never used Porterfield so can't advise you on the initial bite loss.
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 01:07 PM
  #47  
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Porterfield are just fine on the street. You won't notice any difference. And they won't eat your rotors.
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 01:42 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by BLKROKT
Porterfield are just fine on the street. You won't notice any difference. And they won't eat your rotors.
Rokt, in all honestly, do they lose any feel compared to OE pads? I'm sure all pads we can buy are totally acceptable on the street.

I'm just always curious on the difference in characteristics with brakes, tires, etc.

Thanks.
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 01:49 PM
  #49  
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I didn't feel any difference whatsoever. Less dust and equal feel for all intents and purposes. They suck on track though.
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Old Jun 23, 2016 | 10:09 PM
  #50  
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I ended buying the front kit from FCPEuro. Came in today and is one of my chores for next week while I am off
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