I'd like to start this by saying I'm not a mechanic, but I do like doing basic service on my car. I decided to try my best with new brake pads. So if anyone has any suggestions, please let me know and we can adjust this going forward.

Tools needed:
- Jack, jack stand/lift
- Everything needed to take wheels off (breaker bar, 17mm socket, torque wrench)
- socket wrench (with 8mm and 14mm sockets)
- screwdriver with small hex (or anything less than 5mm wide and over 1cm long that you can get a hammer on)
- hammer
- plyers (preferrably both needlenose and regular)

So let's get into it:

Step 1:

Get the car into the air. If you're using a jack, remember to use a jack stand too, and break the wheel nuts before you get the car up. I jack up the front, and put a jack stand out the back (vice versa for access to the fronts)



Note: I did not take the calipers off of the car. I didn't feel like it was necessary, and to be honest, I think it'd be more difficult to get some of the pins out.

Step 2 (rear):

unbolt the sensor (8mm socket). This is only needed for the passenger side, as there are only brake pad sensors on that side. I've heard that these sensors are not necessary, and can just be zip-tied to something to keep them out of the way.



Step 3 (rear):

Knock out the pins. I took a hex head screw driver, and then hammered them loose. There are no safety pins or anything keeping these pins in. Watch out for the metal peice on top. They can pop out pretty good.



Then grab the loose pin from the back with the regular plyers. You'll have to wiggle and pull in order to get it moving.



Step 4 (rear):

Take out the brake pads. These should pretty much slide out. A good way to save time later, is pull and push as much as you can on the pads. This will compress the brake pistons and make it easier to get the new pads in.



Step 5 (rear):

Take off the sensor. To be honest, I struggled with this step, and just used a hammer and a flat head screw driver. However, I broke the sensor... so, you should probably find a better way! Either way, I'm not getting a CEL, so it may not be too bad.



Step 6 rear:

Take out your new brake pads, and coat the back of them with copper anti-squeak. This will make your driving much less noisy.





Step 7 rear:

Take the old backing plate from your old brake pad. Clean it up, and put it on the new pad.



Step 8 rear:

Put the sensor back in. Again, I used a hammer and a flat head screwdriver, and it wasn't pretty.



Step 9 rear:

Put the new brake pads in.



Step 10 rear:

Put the pins back in. I got them in by hand, then used the plyers to get them in as much as possible, then finally, hammered them in.





Last step:

Remember to screw the sensor back in:



There, you've done the rears!

For the fronts, it's pretty much the same thing, although there are a couple of important differences. Here is a picture of the front brake caliper:



There are only two differences from the original how to, for doing the fronts:
1) there is a massive bolt in the middle that has to be ondone. It's a 14mm bolt, and I did this first.
2) there are no backing plates, so don't use any copper paste.

Please remember, I am not a mechanic, but hopefully this helps a few of you DIY'ers!

 

Great DIY, thanks for posting!

 

Great DIY! You did not get a CEL on the broken sensor because it is not grounding.

 

Great post! keep it up.

 

Man that is awesome. Thanks much for taking the time to share. What type of pads did you get and how much were they?

 

Great post and amazing work
Thanks a lot well done

 

Thanks for the kind comments guys. It had to be done, may as well take a few pics.

I picked up Carbotech brake pads. I can't remember the model line, but so far, they feel good, and make no noise. I'll do a post-track update soon.

 

^ Nicely done. Given the ease of replacing MB pads and rotors, it’s simple enough to save a few dollars by swapping them yourself.

Rather than forcing degraded brake fluid back through the hydraulic circuit while retracting the pistons (with the bleeder valves closed),
many recommend instead discharging the old fluid into a suitable recycling container.

Follow that up with a complete 330.1-specification DOT 4+ flush and bleed (required biennially and recommended prior to any track day participation)
to better exploit the full braking capabilities for which you’ve already paid. :)

http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/d/d/en/Spec_330_1.pdf

 

Thanks for the advice. Perhaps the next person that does this, can post a how-to for bleeding the brakes and replacing fluid.

 

You missed an important step... clean your brakes Them there are some dirty calipers

 

I went to the car wash right before doing this, and the line was an hour long. So I decided against it... bad decision.

 

Very nice write-up. I'm sure it will help others.

I also do the DIY for the brakes. It's not too bad. I have help when I've done it, though.

Just an aside, the MB rotors can last a really long time if you don't track the car.

 

Great DIY. Quick question, why do the OEM pads have those "hooks" connected to them, and the new pads dont?

 

The fronts look like a safety device for the rotors. They can't be pinched together by more than the width of the rotors. However, I could be wrong on the one.

The rears... I have no idea. They didn't provide any function besides making it easier to take out and put back in the pads.

My rotors have 50k (km's) on them with two track days. Another track day next week... we'll see if they last.

For those that were asking which brake pad model, I have 1521's front and back, and a set of XP10's for the front on the track.

 

Nice DIY, curious as to where you guys are getting decent pads for a not so killer price?

 

U did well on the rotors, Did you track at mosport? Moport is very flowing, doesn't harm brakes too bad, I installed a new set of oem front rotors and endless MX72 with only 2000km hwy driving plus one day at Mosport and Mid-Ohio. After last Mid-ohio, my front brakes are completely destroyed by Mid-ohio. Front rotors are cracked along the drilled holes and warped. But I was pushing hard and ******* with F430 race car and C5Z06, trailbraking alot. I just ordered XP10 for front today and racing brakes rotors, hope they can do better

 

Check out Carbotech. Great customer service, and the product looks pretty good. I haven't tracked them yet, but they seem to have a good reputation. All in all, brake pads for less than $500 is not bad. The only issue is you have to send them a set of old pads so they can use the existing plates.

 

My guess is the "hooks" on the OEM pads are weights to absorb/dampen vibration harmonics and reduce brake squeal with OEM street pad friction compounds. I guess (again) that the aftermarket finds them to be an added cost/complication with little benefit on performance pad friction compounds or they just expect you to put up with any brake squeal you may get with performance brake pads.

 

Hello great DIY guide.

Do you use the copper paste to stick the backing plate onto the new pads?? I have a set of Porterfield pads that I am planning to install soon

 

Should sticky this with a list of brake pads and reviews on them.. Can save guys tons of money here, its around 3500-4k to get this done at the dealer.. They are throwing away your half used rotors.. A huge waste!

Ive been running the Porterfield RS4 on all 4 corners with the stock rotor P30 rotors with no complaints. There is no noise and they seem to work just as well as stock or better. Low brake dust as well.

 

good job. It is very straight foward if not a little dirty.

 

Correct. The originals in mt E63 did not have them either, but then there were a lot of complaints about squeal.

 

Yes, exactly.

 

I used this DIY and put on some EBC red stuff pads today (rear only). It took me about an hour. These brakes were the easiest ones I've ever done. Next time it will probably take 20 minutes after having the wheels off.
Quick Tip to get the Sensor off: use a flat head screw driver and pry off the backing plate on the old Pad. Spray in some WD 40, wait, then use a small screw driver to wedge it out. very simple and you won't break it.

 

besides that passenger rear corner, which other corners contain brake pad sensors?