GT-R or C63?
#52
Junior Member
On paper, obviously the GTR. If you don't mind just having RWD and love hearing the sound of your car as you pull then C63 hands down. If you've got extra cash to burn you might want to look into a C63BS... that will turn heads even more.
#53
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Wow, seriously?! That's crazy. I'm just gonna stay with AMG's since my last year's maintenance was no more than $200. Even with a full factory extended warranty, the cost of tire,s and every few years brake jobs, it definitely wouldn't be reaching that GTR's amount.
#54
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2010 CL550 loaded
Had a GTR for 3 years and spent $4,560.00 total on car including tires.
Hard to believe ,but had GREAT dealer support. LOL ave 8-9k -what a lot a crap.
Unless you have to have it trailered from Moosejaw Alaska for service
Last edited by F355C5; 02-19-2013 at 02:35 PM. Reason: adding
#55
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This is from NAGTROC FAQ Thread...
2 How expensive is it to maintain a GT-R?
The short answer is that, like any car, it depends. If you only drive the car every so often, and never track it, then it won't be too much more expensive than another car in its price range. Conversely, if you track it extensively, the sky is the limit as several thousands of dollars can be spent each week- like any sports car. Here are some basic numbers:
Regular driving, no track use:
Engine Oil changes & Misc = $200 every 6,000 miles
Transmission & Differential Fluid Changes = $2,000 every 18,000 miles
Tire Change = $2,000 / set (tire life should be somewhere between 8,000 miles and 20,000 miles depending on many factors including how you drive, the roads where you live, weather conditions)
Annual POS (including alignment) = FREE
Brake pads & rotors = $6,000 / set (every 24,000 miles)
In short, at suggested market prices, you can expect to pay an annualized cost of $6,700 assuming you drive 12,000 miles and assuming you go through one set of tires per year.
Note1 = These numbers assume the car is not tracked and that the car is not driven as aggressively as it might be on track. If that were to happen, the interval on fluid changes drops to the 2-3,000 mile range on all fluids (including the transmission).
Note2 =Significant cost savings can be had by shopping around, usually to the tune of at least 20-30%. DIY work will save costs further. Also scheduling fluid changes around the yearly POS can save money as alot of the labor costs include removing the time consuming under trays.. during POS this has to be done for free to check alignment so in theory you should be able to work out a reduced cost of labor for the fluid changes if having them performed during the warranted alignment check
Note3 = Brake costs can but cut in half while maintaining or exceeding OE standards and quality by going aftermarket.
If you track a GT-R extensively, these numbers increase - depending on how aggressively you track. If you run the car at its absolute limit for extended periods of time (through 20 minute sessions) particularly in hot climates, you could find yourself needing to change all fluids immediately. (This is determined by whether or not you hit 280 degrees on the motor or transmission oil as indicated on the car's multi function display). Another cost of extensive tracking is tires - it's possible to go through a complete set in a couple weekends. Yet another consideration for tracked GT-Rs is cooling modifications, as the GT-R was not designed from the factory to spend prolonged periods of time at its limits on a track. While none of this will be a surprise to those familiar with tracking a high performance street car, it's worth noting.
2 How expensive is it to maintain a GT-R?
The short answer is that, like any car, it depends. If you only drive the car every so often, and never track it, then it won't be too much more expensive than another car in its price range. Conversely, if you track it extensively, the sky is the limit as several thousands of dollars can be spent each week- like any sports car. Here are some basic numbers:
Regular driving, no track use:
Engine Oil changes & Misc = $200 every 6,000 miles
Transmission & Differential Fluid Changes = $2,000 every 18,000 miles
Tire Change = $2,000 / set (tire life should be somewhere between 8,000 miles and 20,000 miles depending on many factors including how you drive, the roads where you live, weather conditions)
Annual POS (including alignment) = FREE
Brake pads & rotors = $6,000 / set (every 24,000 miles)
In short, at suggested market prices, you can expect to pay an annualized cost of $6,700 assuming you drive 12,000 miles and assuming you go through one set of tires per year.
Note1 = These numbers assume the car is not tracked and that the car is not driven as aggressively as it might be on track. If that were to happen, the interval on fluid changes drops to the 2-3,000 mile range on all fluids (including the transmission).
Note2 =Significant cost savings can be had by shopping around, usually to the tune of at least 20-30%. DIY work will save costs further. Also scheduling fluid changes around the yearly POS can save money as alot of the labor costs include removing the time consuming under trays.. during POS this has to be done for free to check alignment so in theory you should be able to work out a reduced cost of labor for the fluid changes if having them performed during the warranted alignment check
Note3 = Brake costs can but cut in half while maintaining or exceeding OE standards and quality by going aftermarket.
If you track a GT-R extensively, these numbers increase - depending on how aggressively you track. If you run the car at its absolute limit for extended periods of time (through 20 minute sessions) particularly in hot climates, you could find yourself needing to change all fluids immediately. (This is determined by whether or not you hit 280 degrees on the motor or transmission oil as indicated on the car's multi function display). Another cost of extensive tracking is tires - it's possible to go through a complete set in a couple weekends. Yet another consideration for tracked GT-Rs is cooling modifications, as the GT-R was not designed from the factory to spend prolonged periods of time at its limits on a track. While none of this will be a surprise to those familiar with tracking a high performance street car, it's worth noting.
#56
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2020 Audi R8 V10, 2016 AMG GTS, 2018 E63S Edition 1, 2018 Porsche GTS Cab, 2012 C63 BS
I dont drive my cars all that much but still oil changes are 195 dollars and transmission oil changes were closer to 600... But 8k per year?
#57
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2021 Porsche TTS
I think it depends how many miles you put on the car and the kind of tires you put on the car.
The C63 if driven 12,000 a year will cost you at least $3,000 with one set of good tires and dealer service A and B. Obviously, you can cut that substantially if you do the oil change yourself and buy cheap tires but why would anyone do this is beyond me when you spend $65K in the first place for a car. It could easily go to $5,000 if you are heavy footed. My Michelin Pilot+ lasted me 6000 miles.
Both cars are not cheap to maintain if you are going to put a substantial amount of miles.
If you are worried about maitenance, then maybe this kind of car is not the right one.
The C63 if driven 12,000 a year will cost you at least $3,000 with one set of good tires and dealer service A and B. Obviously, you can cut that substantially if you do the oil change yourself and buy cheap tires but why would anyone do this is beyond me when you spend $65K in the first place for a car. It could easily go to $5,000 if you are heavy footed. My Michelin Pilot+ lasted me 6000 miles.
Both cars are not cheap to maintain if you are going to put a substantial amount of miles.
If you are worried about maitenance, then maybe this kind of car is not the right one.
#58
LOL. proof you can get lots of misinformation online.
Had a GTR for 3 years and spent $4,560.00 total on car including tires.
Hard to believe ,but had GREAT dealer support. LOL ave 8-9k -what a lot a crap.
Unless you have to have it trailered from Moosejaw Alaska for service
Had a GTR for 3 years and spent $4,560.00 total on car including tires.
Hard to believe ,but had GREAT dealer support. LOL ave 8-9k -what a lot a crap.
Unless you have to have it trailered from Moosejaw Alaska for service
Dealer support issue i was told first hand by a nissan tech. All three aquaintances now get their car serviced at Fabshop Miami.
- Oil changes aren't cheap at many dealers it's $200.00.
- Trannny fluid is $70-80 per quart. Dealers charge $700-800 for a trans fluid change.
- Fluid exchange (trans, fr diff, rr diff) - $1400
- Brakes are $7000-8000 front and rear retail, although cheaper resourced through the aftermarket.
- Brake pads = ~$600
Most owners like NPLAMG regularily track their cars as in roadcourse. So factor in more costs.
My freind has one that he used to DD, maintenance set him back $ 7,000 over two years and he doesnt even track the car. Its a show car.
You could do most of the maintenance yourself but it still wont be cheap
Last edited by moosejaw; 02-19-2013 at 04:01 PM.
#59
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#62
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2012 C63 coupe P31/LSD
I liked Performance Nissan, John Kuo was my Service advisor.
He covered everything on my moded car under warranty.
Santamonica and Cerritos Nissan were expensive and all about the money.
Cerritos, Often rejected to work under warranty due to mods even though the problem was
Not related to the mod.
He covered everything on my moded car under warranty.
Santamonica and Cerritos Nissan were expensive and all about the money.
Cerritos, Often rejected to work under warranty due to mods even though the problem was
Not related to the mod.
#64
My quick comment: had a cts-v, 2012 gtr, drove a c63 for 7 days.
Stealth factor: c63 for sure... You ll get a lot of questions with the gtr, the other gtr/c63 owners can confirm it. Exhaust note, you need to swap the exhaust on the gtr if you want something more agressive. Fun to drive, the gtr makes me smile everytime i take her... Maintenance cost are ok, they changed the transmission fluid changes in 2012 i think, tires are expensive i agree.
For me, the fact that i cannot make a burn out or drift is not a big issue.
The ride is harsh even if in 2012 they modified the suspension. Way better than in 2009 but not even close to the caddy or c63. If you like a smooth ride, don t go with a gtr period.
Hope it helps you make your decision
Stealth factor: c63 for sure... You ll get a lot of questions with the gtr, the other gtr/c63 owners can confirm it. Exhaust note, you need to swap the exhaust on the gtr if you want something more agressive. Fun to drive, the gtr makes me smile everytime i take her... Maintenance cost are ok, they changed the transmission fluid changes in 2012 i think, tires are expensive i agree.
For me, the fact that i cannot make a burn out or drift is not a big issue.
The ride is harsh even if in 2012 they modified the suspension. Way better than in 2009 but not even close to the caddy or c63. If you like a smooth ride, don t go with a gtr period.
Hope it helps you make your decision
#65
New member here, just signed up because I'm considering buying a C63 sedan as a daily driver after having daily-driven (and tracked) a 2010 GT-R and more recently a 2013 GT-R.
If you drive the GT-R "the way it was meant to be driven" then yes, it will be expensive to maintain. My biggest maintenance items are a set of Dunlop SP600s every 9-10k miles ($2,200+) and a couple of sets of Carbotech XP12 pads ($600/set) each year. I am also a bit more paranoid than most so I get a full transmission/differential fluid flush every 12k miles for around $1,200. I drive my car about 12k miles a year, so you can see how this all adds up. That, plus the road noise and the relatively harsh ride are the main reasons I'm thinking of getting a C63 as my DD, and keeping the GT-R as just a weekend & track toy.
If you drive the GT-R "the way it was meant to be driven" then yes, it will be expensive to maintain. My biggest maintenance items are a set of Dunlop SP600s every 9-10k miles ($2,200+) and a couple of sets of Carbotech XP12 pads ($600/set) each year. I am also a bit more paranoid than most so I get a full transmission/differential fluid flush every 12k miles for around $1,200. I drive my car about 12k miles a year, so you can see how this all adds up. That, plus the road noise and the relatively harsh ride are the main reasons I'm thinking of getting a C63 as my DD, and keeping the GT-R as just a weekend & track toy.
#66
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2011 C63 Calcite White
test drove the M3 few days ago, real big difference compare to the C like night and day. Thinking of getting the M4 next year, but of course I'll still keep the C
BMW's handling and driving "feel" is really unmatchable in its class. The C is sure feels fast and all, but that's all. The M really feels like driving a sports car. Anyway I thought of getting the GTR next year but now come to think of it, its not classy and just pure track car. Not good for a daily to me unless you track it weekly.
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#67
#68
test drove the M3 few days ago, real big difference compare to the C like night and day. Thinking of getting the M4 next year, but of course I'll still keep the C
BMW's handling and driving "feel" is really unmatchable in its class. The C is sure feels fast and all, but that's all. The M really feels like driving a sports car. Anyway I thought of getting the GTR next year but now come to think of it, its not classy and just pure track car. Not good for a daily to me unless you track it weekly.
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#69
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2010 CL550 loaded
Yes mine was a daily driver. 3 years 18000 miles -many 1/8 miles drag runs-40 ish -1/4 miles runs 8-10 . Complete fludid change was $ 840.00 at Nissan dealership special. Your friends are getting ripped off.
#70
i work for a nissan dealer and drive a c63 lol. you honestly cant compare the c to the gtr. thats like when i have customers come in and say i want a sentra or a maxima. different class of car. i bought the c vs a gtr because of the luxury aspect and dd factor. not that i dd my c but if i wanna road trip to nc in i can easily and not worry about anything.
Last edited by c63philly; 03-19-2013 at 11:12 AM.
#72
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2010 E63
Having owned both, I say C63. Like most have already said here, the GTR is all about speed and amazing extreme performance. It put a smile on my face every time I drove my 2013, but driving around town was not as "fun" as the C63, but that is my personal subjective preference. I really enjoy the instant torque, feel and the SOUND of the M156 engine in the C63.
I would not mind buying another GTR someday, but for me, it's been there, done that. The C63 has more utility (I have a sedan), and a bit more practicality.
Both are a good choice.
I would not mind buying another GTR someday, but for me, it's been there, done that. The C63 has more utility (I have a sedan), and a bit more practicality.
Both are a good choice.
#73
Junior Member
These are totally different cars. Driving either one should make the decision totally clear to you. So drive them back to back and pick. Personally, I'd go with the GT-R if I had to make the decision again. Actually, I'd buy a GT3. RWD fan.
#74
I daily drive mine (except in winter) and since 2012, cost of ownership have dropped. From Nagtroc (but also in my manual)
- Engine Oil and Filter 9,000 miles/12 months instead of 6,000 miles/ 6 months
- Brake Fluid Needs to be replaced every 24,000 miles/24 months instead of 36,000 miles/36 months
- Transmission Fluid and Differential Oil can now go up to 36,000 miles /36 months instead of 18,000 miles /18 months
So IMO, not that bad.
- Engine Oil and Filter 9,000 miles/12 months instead of 6,000 miles/ 6 months
- Brake Fluid Needs to be replaced every 24,000 miles/24 months instead of 36,000 miles/36 months
- Transmission Fluid and Differential Oil can now go up to 36,000 miles /36 months instead of 18,000 miles /18 months
So IMO, not that bad.
#75
I agree with most of what has been said so far. Just adding my 2 cents, I'm Raydius over on NAGTROC/GTR-LIFE and just sold my 2012 GT-R. I did 2 track days but I was too timid to thrash the car so I did the fluid maintenance but didn't go through a full set of tires or brakes in 12k miles. Overall the cost of ownership wasn't that bad. That being said, the two big negatives about the car are the driving fatigue on longer drives (stiff chassis/suspension) and the unavoidable attention you get form everyone including police -- I got pulled over twice in a single month for NO reason, which only after walking around the car they decided to write me up for tinted windows and no front plate (something I've gotten away with in all of my other cars). The positive is that the car isn't really a car, it's pure artillery. If you're a fan of complete overkill, then accept no substitutes.
On that note, I'm keeping a close eye out for the 507 when it comes out. I can do with something a bit more low key and comfortable for a while, although as others have said, I can see myself getting into another GT-R someday.
On that note, I'm keeping a close eye out for the 507 when it comes out. I can do with something a bit more low key and comfortable for a while, although as others have said, I can see myself getting into another GT-R someday.