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Weistec stage 3 install instructions??

Old Mar 23, 2013 | 11:43 PM
  #1  
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Weistec stage 3 install instructions??

Anyone knowa link or have a PDF for the stage 3 instructions? I don't have a copy and Steve hasn't answered my emails yet.
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 12:37 AM
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I would like to see a copy of this. Im tempted to buy the kit, just want to know the level of difficulty.
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 01:11 AM
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Got a copy.

Lin: email weistec, I am not sure if they want this floating around.

It's nothing really hard, just looks like a lot of work.

My tech friend and I are digging into it now.
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 01:50 AM
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Yea I may do that, the kit doesn't seem that complicated. Plus I have done other turbo installs before in my own garage.
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 03:29 AM
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Are you having problems with the supercharger?
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Originally Posted by Merc63
Got a copy.

Lin: email weistec, I am not sure if they want this floating around.

It's nothing really hard, just looks like a lot of work.

My tech friend and I are digging into it now.
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 11:05 AM
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No. Just finally doing the install and didn't have any instructions.

Wow is it sooooo much easier to install the headers with the valve covers off...

Ordering studs Monday and replacing one at a time.
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 11:09 AM
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Steve is working in Dubai right now, I will text Mike and let him know to chime in on this thread or PM you instructions.
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 11:14 AM
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I got a hold of him thanks sir.
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Merc63
I got a hold of him thanks sir.
Cool, let us know how install goes. Hook up a GoPro on your first test drive after install and aim it right at your face, I want to see your eyes pop out of your head when you feel the power for the first time LOL.
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 11:35 AM
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Can't wait. It's like I am 10years old and got my first Nintendo lol.
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 06:33 PM
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Instructions don't come with the 17k unit?
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Merc63
No. Just finally doing the install and didn't have any instructions.

Wow is it sooooo much easier to install the headers with the valve covers off...

Ordering studs Monday and replacing one at a time.
Your going to remove head bolts without changing the gaskets??...

One at a time still not a good long term idea.
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Old Mar 24, 2013 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by BerBer63
Instructions don't come with the 17k unit?
EDIT:

Here is the link to the instructions:
http://weistec.com/install/m156sc_c_s1s2.pdf

Last edited by Blown63; Mar 24, 2013 at 09:24 PM.
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Shifter
Your going to remove head bolts without changing the gaskets??...

One at a time still not a good long term idea.

Why???? Diesel guys do it all the time.

You think removing 1 bolts of 10 is going to make a difference on a cold engine? The other 9 bolts are holding everything in place with an extraordinary amount of clamping force.

Whats your logic??
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 01:04 AM
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Not only have Diesel guys been doing this forever now... Also BMW has had the EXACT same issue with head bolts.

The 6 cylinder M20 engine would pop head bolts just like ours. BMW suggested replacing head bolts one at a time with the newer ones..


Here is a bit of a read on it: http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...d_bolt_fix.htm
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 02:44 AM
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I've replaced several head studs with out removing the car on Mitsu 2.0s with 0 issues. These are 35+ psi cars. We would switch from a standard ARP to the L19s. Tool steel is the only way to go. My car lifted the head at 35 psi with standard ARPs. I pulled the studs one at a time and went with L19s torqued at 100 ft lbs. I also used moly lube and a vaccume to suck out all the oil that went in the hole in the block where the stud was.
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by layzie12g
I've replaced several head studs with out removing the car on Mitsu 2.0s with 0 issues. These are 35+ psi cars. We would switch from a standard ARP to the L19s. Tool steel is the only way to go. My car lifted the head at 35 psi with standard ARPs. I pulled the studs one at a time and went with L19s torqued at 100 ft lbs. I also used moly lube and a vaccume to suck out all the oil that went in the hole in the block where the stud was.
Thank you for posting your experience,

I'll be cleaning the threads/holes with parts clean and I have a small sucker that willfit in the holes.
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Merc63
Can't wait. It's like I am 10years old and got my first Nintendo lol.
i would have said , it's like i'm 10 years old and got the game Porky's for my Atari 2600
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 12:27 PM
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Don't you think the gasket is compromised by un compressing it and then recompressing it?

What would you think of a dealership fixing your car this way-- bet you wouldn't think it's acceptable then-- or would you?

I spoke to a FTS about it and he had the same thoughts.
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 03:04 PM
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How is the gasket going to move with 9 other head bolts clamping it down???

Do you know how much force those 9 bolts have? It's huge. That gasket isn't going to budge.
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 04:20 PM
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Its not like the components are made of rubber or plastic, where when you remove the corner bolts the components will raise up. They are metal, there is no flex unless you remove more then half the bolts, and even then it is unlikely.

As for the dealer doing it that way, personally I would not care.. there are many right ways to perform jobs, as long as the end result remains. Replacing the bolts 1 by 1 before a failure will not dmg the gasket. After a failure is of course a different story.

Merc, take pics.. lots of pics.. in fact.. use video, record all the work and drop it onto youtube
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 04:47 PM
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Head studs are on way from Weistec today and we will be installing them on Saturday.

Ill take lots of pics and document it with this thread.
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 05:10 PM
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That's cool, you can do it however you want it's your car.

Why would it be different after a failure then?
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 05:16 PM
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Question

Originally Posted by Shifter
Don't you think the gasket is compromised by un compressing it and then recompressing it?

What would you think of a dealership fixing your car this way-- bet you wouldn't think it's acceptable then-- or would you?

I spoke to a FTS about it and he had the same thoughts.
They would be my thoughts.
I'm not saying the bolts couldn't be replaced one by one etc, NOT saying that at all, only that if it was my car, I'd want the heads removed, new gaskets etc.
Cheers, Pickles.
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Shifter
That's cool, you can do it however you want it's your car.

Why would it be different after a failure then?
The seal would be broken from the pressure of combustion and oil/coolant would containment the gasket/ seal.
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