DIY Transmission fluid change - semi successful - lessons learned
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2017 Mini Cooper S Clubman ALL4 - British Racing Green
DIY Transmission fluid change - semi successful - lessons learned
Okay, So I changed the transmission fluid this afternoon.
First lesson learned... don't start the project at 3pm in the winter when the sun goes down at 5pm :P
After 3 hours, and working with a headlamp, I only changed the fluid from the pan, I was unable to get the torque convertor changed.
The first part was easy, open drain, pop fill pipe, drain. Drop pan, clean, replace filter, pop new filter in, clean transmission seal surface, mount pan back in place with new bolts.
That took about 45 min to an hour. Most of that was torquing and 180 degree'ing (yes I made that into a verb) with an angle gauge that reflects my headlamp light horribly making it difficult to read the marks.
Also took me about an hour to jack the car up and level it. since my driveway is not only sloped, but not level from side to side.
The fluid drained was pitch black, and there was about 1/8th of an inch of sludge coating the bottom of the pan and the magnets. When I popped the drain plug, a significant amount of fluid drained prior to me having to pop the fill pipe. That is a little disconcerting since I had paid the dealer to change the fluid about 50k miles ago, and I am guessing they over filled it. I know they did something because my car now has the new oil pan (apparently if you take it to the dealer they have to put the new pan in place if you have the old one it won't clear the filters they now sell).
For the TC.. well, that is for another day, I could not for the life of me get the 36mm socket into the crankshaft pulley to turn the engine to get the TC drain plug accessible. And I ran out of light fast, while still not having filled the pan and run through the fill exercise.
If I had more time, I would have pulled out the fan to get more space to work in there. Next fluid change I guess.
Filling also took about 30 min, since it was cold out, it took a while for the fluid to come up to temp (45C/113F), around 30 min. I do not have a garage I can use (mine is filled with massive woodworking table tools, no place for car). When it did get to temp, I popped the filling pipe from my mityvac and about 0.5L drained out till it sputtered, it was still red, but darkish now after it mixed with the fluid remaining.
I went for a drive after changing the fluid, the transmission, and it shifts much quicker than it was, smoother, and also the very slight vibration/grinding feeling I had (which I had taken the car in for and paid the dealer to do the tranny fluid change previous as they said that should fix it) previously was now gone. That again leads me to believe the dealer screwed something up in the last change.
Oh well, live and learn... Now to figure out how to get the damn breaker bar and 36mm socket onto the stupid crankshaft pulley... *sigh*
First lesson learned... don't start the project at 3pm in the winter when the sun goes down at 5pm :P
After 3 hours, and working with a headlamp, I only changed the fluid from the pan, I was unable to get the torque convertor changed.
The first part was easy, open drain, pop fill pipe, drain. Drop pan, clean, replace filter, pop new filter in, clean transmission seal surface, mount pan back in place with new bolts.
That took about 45 min to an hour. Most of that was torquing and 180 degree'ing (yes I made that into a verb) with an angle gauge that reflects my headlamp light horribly making it difficult to read the marks.
Also took me about an hour to jack the car up and level it. since my driveway is not only sloped, but not level from side to side.
The fluid drained was pitch black, and there was about 1/8th of an inch of sludge coating the bottom of the pan and the magnets. When I popped the drain plug, a significant amount of fluid drained prior to me having to pop the fill pipe. That is a little disconcerting since I had paid the dealer to change the fluid about 50k miles ago, and I am guessing they over filled it. I know they did something because my car now has the new oil pan (apparently if you take it to the dealer they have to put the new pan in place if you have the old one it won't clear the filters they now sell).
For the TC.. well, that is for another day, I could not for the life of me get the 36mm socket into the crankshaft pulley to turn the engine to get the TC drain plug accessible. And I ran out of light fast, while still not having filled the pan and run through the fill exercise.
If I had more time, I would have pulled out the fan to get more space to work in there. Next fluid change I guess.
Filling also took about 30 min, since it was cold out, it took a while for the fluid to come up to temp (45C/113F), around 30 min. I do not have a garage I can use (mine is filled with massive woodworking table tools, no place for car). When it did get to temp, I popped the filling pipe from my mityvac and about 0.5L drained out till it sputtered, it was still red, but darkish now after it mixed with the fluid remaining.
I went for a drive after changing the fluid, the transmission, and it shifts much quicker than it was, smoother, and also the very slight vibration/grinding feeling I had (which I had taken the car in for and paid the dealer to do the tranny fluid change previous as they said that should fix it) previously was now gone. That again leads me to believe the dealer screwed something up in the last change.
Oh well, live and learn... Now to figure out how to get the damn breaker bar and 36mm socket onto the stupid crankshaft pulley... *sigh*
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What an interesting 1st of the year
Simple question? Should the torque converter oil be changed at the same time as the transmission oil?
Simple question? Should the torque converter oil be changed at the same time as the transmission oil?
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I do not know.. I'm hoping one of the other DIYers or knowledgeable mechanic shows up.
The fact that the fluid I put in mixed with older fluid, the answer is no.
Technically one can drain the fluid from the TC, and go through the same procedures for filling, but you will still end up with mixed fluid, albeit a better ratio of new to old.
The fact that the fluid I put in mixed with older fluid, the answer is no.
Technically one can drain the fluid from the TC, and go through the same procedures for filling, but you will still end up with mixed fluid, albeit a better ratio of new to old.
#4
Sounds like a lot of crap was in yours. The ones I've done, only a bit of sludge on the magnets.
Draining the tq convertor isn't part of the service, but it's probably a good idea, although I never drain mine.
Draining the tq convertor isn't part of the service, but it's probably a good idea, although I never drain mine.
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I think 45 to 49 is the interval for transmission flush.. I think...
Either way, it is not cheap.. 6 to 10L of ATF 134 (at between $10 to $20/L), filter, gasket, fill pipe and TC drain plug (if you want to do the TC), total cost for me was around $200.
Either way, it is not cheap.. 6 to 10L of ATF 134 (at between $10 to $20/L), filter, gasket, fill pipe and TC drain plug (if you want to do the TC), total cost for me was around $200.
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it should be done at 39k for the older cars using red fluid. 60k on the newer cars using blue stuff. It's normal for a lot of fluid to come out prior to popping the tube off - When you are setting the fluid level the car is running - the trans pump is turning and moving fluid around. When the car is off like when you drain it that fluid isnt circulating it's just resting in the pan. glad it seemed to fix some shifting issues - thats pretty unusual for fluid to fix mechanical problems - maybe it was a sticking check ball/valve?.
Last edited by roadtalontsi; 01-02-2014 at 01:29 AM.