Super Strong Spoiler Adhesive?
#51
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Just about wet myself laughing W204, I think our friend thought he was ridiculing me a few posts back as he tried the Canadian putdown comment.LOL
ZephyrAMG is correct, clean the area well with isopropyl alcohol using different cloths or areas of the same cloth on both mating surfaces.
A few beads of silicone adhesive(5 or 6) when applied between the tape positions and then left overnight to cure will securely hold on your spoiler. Then for the the gap use masking tape on both sides of the seam to give a protective area, use black RTV silicone to fill the gap, wipe with your finger to smooth the silicone, then remove the masking tape and let cure overnight.
ZephyrAMG is correct, clean the area well with isopropyl alcohol using different cloths or areas of the same cloth on both mating surfaces.
A few beads of silicone adhesive(5 or 6) when applied between the tape positions and then left overnight to cure will securely hold on your spoiler. Then for the the gap use masking tape on both sides of the seam to give a protective area, use black RTV silicone to fill the gap, wipe with your finger to smooth the silicone, then remove the masking tape and let cure overnight.
Last edited by Critter; 02-17-2014 at 01:42 PM.
#52
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3M or Tesa black double sided all weather tape will assist you.
If you want a really good tack you can do two things.
1) Prep both surfaces with isopropyl alcohol
2) Purchase 3M adhesive promoter
If you want a really good tack you can do two things.
1) Prep both surfaces with isopropyl alcohol
2) Purchase 3M adhesive promoter
#53
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W204 - don't listen to the pearls of wisdom by the great Ingenieur. If he is an engineer (which I HIGHLY doubt), he probably means the kind that operates a locomotive.
As others have pointed out, surface prep and getting some temperature in both surfaces (spoiler AND trunk) is the key. Yes, epoxy-based adhesives will be stronger, but they are also permanent. Properly applied 3M tape should hold it without difficulty.
As others have pointed out, surface prep and getting some temperature in both surfaces (spoiler AND trunk) is the key. Yes, epoxy-based adhesives will be stronger, but they are also permanent. Properly applied 3M tape should hold it without difficulty.
Last edited by Diabolis; 02-17-2014 at 07:35 PM.
#54
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W204 - don't listen to the pearls of wisdom by the great Ingenieur. If he is an engineer(which I HIGHLY doubt), he probably means the kind that operates a locomotive.
As others have pointed out, surface prep and getting some temperature in both surfaces (spoiler AND trunk) is the key. Yes, epoxy-based adhesives will be stronger, but they are also permanent. Properly applied 3M tape should hold it without difficulty.
As others have pointed out, surface prep and getting some temperature in both surfaces (spoiler AND trunk) is the key. Yes, epoxy-based adhesives will be stronger, but they are also permanent. Properly applied 3M tape should hold it without difficulty.
As for my spoiler problem I can say that I didn't prep it well at all. I just used water before installing it lol, no other prep work.
#55
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Just about wet myself laughing W204, I think our friend thought he was ridiculing me a few posts back as he tried the Canadian putdown comment.LOL
ZephyrAMG is correct, clean the area well with isopropyl alcohol using different cloths or areas of the same cloth on both mating surfaces.
A few beads of silicone adhesive(5 or 6) when applied between the tape positions and then left overnight to cure will securely hold on your spoiler. Then for the the gap use masking tape on both sides of the seam to give a protective area, use black RTV silicone to fill the gap, wipe with your finger to smooth the silicone, then remove the masking tape and let cure overnight.
ZephyrAMG is correct, clean the area well with isopropyl alcohol using different cloths or areas of the same cloth on both mating surfaces.
A few beads of silicone adhesive(5 or 6) when applied between the tape positions and then left overnight to cure will securely hold on your spoiler. Then for the the gap use masking tape on both sides of the seam to give a protective area, use black RTV silicone to fill the gap, wipe with your finger to smooth the silicone, then remove the masking tape and let cure overnight.
I think I will just surface prep better; I will get more 3M tape then I will:
1. Clean the area with the alcohol.
2. Heat the spoiler
3. Apply the adhesive promoter
4. Apply the tape
Same thing with the surface of the car but with no tape. I will clean with alcohol, heat the surface, apply adhesive promoter.
Do the steps sound like they are in the proper order? Sorry for being so annoying about this, I just want it perfect as I've tried 3 times already. I'm a perfectionist lol
Last edited by w204_Generic; 02-17-2014 at 08:04 PM.
#56
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No problem, it was a laugh for sure.
The reason I like a few beads on the spoiler is that is makes the bond so much stronger as in some cases it has been known to have some people have there additions pulled off/stolen. If you ever need to remove the same fishing line method would work slicing through the silicone. Especially if you live and I see you do live in Florida which does see high temps and with a black car the tape could become unattached so to speak.
When you say heat the car and spoiler, if it is sunny out and warm then just let both sit in the sun for a while and this should be hot enough, a black car in the direct sun you can cook a meal on it. My cars came from Alabama both black so I have felt the heat first hand, ha ha .
Good Luck
The reason I like a few beads on the spoiler is that is makes the bond so much stronger as in some cases it has been known to have some people have there additions pulled off/stolen. If you ever need to remove the same fishing line method would work slicing through the silicone. Especially if you live and I see you do live in Florida which does see high temps and with a black car the tape could become unattached so to speak.
When you say heat the car and spoiler, if it is sunny out and warm then just let both sit in the sun for a while and this should be hot enough, a black car in the direct sun you can cook a meal on it. My cars came from Alabama both black so I have felt the heat first hand, ha ha .
Good Luck
#57
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Thread Starter
No problem, it was a laugh for sure.
The reason I like a few beads on the spoiler is that is makes the bond so much stronger as in some cases it has been known to have some people have there additions pulled off/stolen. If you ever need to remove the same fishing line method would work slicing through the silicone. Especially if you live and I see you do live in Florida which does see high temps and with a black car the tape could become unattached so to speak.
When you say heat the car and spoiler, if it is sunny out and warm then just let both sit in the sun for a while and this should be hot enough, a black car in the direct sun you can cook a meal on it. My cars came from Alabama both black so I have felt the heat first hand, ha ha .
Good Luck
The reason I like a few beads on the spoiler is that is makes the bond so much stronger as in some cases it has been known to have some people have there additions pulled off/stolen. If you ever need to remove the same fishing line method would work slicing through the silicone. Especially if you live and I see you do live in Florida which does see high temps and with a black car the tape could become unattached so to speak.
When you say heat the car and spoiler, if it is sunny out and warm then just let both sit in the sun for a while and this should be hot enough, a black car in the direct sun you can cook a meal on it. My cars came from Alabama both black so I have felt the heat first hand, ha ha .
Good Luck
Thanks
#58
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Might want to wait a while with fresh paint, ask the shop how long for the paint to fully cure. With base /clear it may be possible right away but ask just to be sure.
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
#59
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Very good point indeed. Paint takes a couple of months to fully cure and harden. You're not even supposed to wash the car during the first few weeks.
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#62
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Haha
Okay I just purchased some adhesion promoter called, "Dupi-Color Adhesion Promoter" for when I install the spoiler. Hopefully it is as good as 3M Adhesion Promoter. Anyways, Do I just spray it on heavy where the area of the car is doused in it? Or just a couple quick sprays.
Thanks
Okay I just purchased some adhesion promoter called, "Dupi-Color Adhesion Promoter" for when I install the spoiler. Hopefully it is as good as 3M Adhesion Promoter. Anyways, Do I just spray it on heavy where the area of the car is doused in it? Or just a couple quick sprays.
Thanks
#63
W204 - don't listen to the pearls of wisdom by the great Ingenieur. If he is an engineer (which I HIGHLY doubt), he probably means the kind that operates a locomotive.
As others have pointed out, surface prep and getting some temperature in both surfaces (spoiler AND trunk) is the key. Yes, epoxy-based adhesives will be stronger, but they are also permanent. Properly applied 3M tape should hold it without difficulty.
As others have pointed out, surface prep and getting some temperature in both surfaces (spoiler AND trunk) is the key. Yes, epoxy-based adhesives will be stronger, but they are also permanent. Properly applied 3M tape should hold it without difficulty.
Several governmental licensing agencies think I'm an engineer?
He needs to get a part that fits
The right thickness tape
Prep the surfaces: clean and warm
If the part doesn't lay flat on the trunk heat it andbend gently over your knee
Check the fit and repeat until satisfied
Then rinse with cold water to set
It should look like it is stuck down before the tape is even applied
It is not rocket science
Someone with a GSW to the head could do it
Last edited by Ingenieur; 02-22-2014 at 06:26 PM.
#64
Haha
Okay I just purchased some adhesion promoter called, "Dupi-Color Adhesion Promoter" for when I install the spoiler. Hopefully it is as good as 3M Adhesion Promoter. Anyways, Do I just spray it on heavy where the area of the car is doused in it? Or just a couple quick sprays.
Thanks
Okay I just purchased some adhesion promoter called, "Dupi-Color Adhesion Promoter" for when I install the spoiler. Hopefully it is as good as 3M Adhesion Promoter. Anyways, Do I just spray it on heavy where the area of the car is doused in it? Or just a couple quick sprays.
Thanks
Not for use with tape
#65
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Okay I returned the dupli-color adhesion promoter everyone and got this "Plastic Emblem and Trim Adhesive."
Would this be the one I'm looking for?
Would this be the one I'm looking for?
#66
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You don't need any adhesion promoter or anything of the sort as it is likely to damage your paint.
Step-by-step instructions you need to follow:
1. Get double-sided 3M acrylic foam tape (it usually has a red backing)
2. Get 99% pure isopropyl alcohol (not rubbing alcohol - that has oils in it which you don't want)
3. Get a clean, lint-free rag or two (microfiber will do nicely)
4. Clean the underside of the spoiler with the alcohol. If there is goop on it from a previous application, you can either use Goof Off of WD40 to remove it first. Keep in mind that both of these leave an oily residue behind, which you will need to remove with the alcohol. WARNING - BOTH THE GOOF OFF AND THE ALCOHOL WILL PARTIALLY DISSOLVE (EAT INTO) THE PLASTIC. Do not get either one on any of the exposed surfaces.
5. Once the spoiler is clean and dry, heat it up with a hair dryer and apply the 3M tape. DO NOT use a heat gun as this is much too hot and will burn the plastic. I don't know if the spoiler has recesses for the tape - if it does, make sure you fill them completely. If it doesn't, apply tape to the entire surface that will come in contact with the trunk. LEAVE THE RED BACKING ON THE TAPE for the time being. Press down over the tape and gently "massage" it into the spoiler to make sure you have a good bond.
You can leave the spoiler like this for weeks or even months if you don't want to do everything at once.
6. IIRC, you said you had your trunk recently painted. Fresh paint takes a couple of months or more to fully outgas and cure. Even in water-borne paints (which are actually not water but rather alcohol-borne), only the pigment layer is water-based - the primer and top coat(s) are still VOC solvent-based, and these to take a long time to fully outgas. If it was my trunk, I wouldn't try to stick anything to it for at least 60 days after it is painted, but that's just me. If you live someplace warm, it will cure a little quicker but you're still talking about a month or more. Do not wax the car or put any sealant on it during this time - you want to leave the pores in the paint open so it can outgas properly.
7. When you're ready to put the spoiler on, wash and dry the car. LET IT DRY COMPLETELY before you attempt to put the spoiler on. If you don't have to, do NOT use the alcohol on the paint as it will damage it. A good hand-wash will do the job nicely. IF YOU CAN, LEAVE THE CAR IN THE SUN TO COMPLETELY DRY AND WARM UP THE TRUNK LID. That will save you from having to heat it up with a hair dryer. Wipe the dust off with a clean microfiber cloth just before you're ready to stick on the spoiler.
8. Peel off the red backing from the 3M tape that you previously put on the spoiler. Try not to get any dirt or fingerprints on the tape.
9. Carefully place the spoiler on the trunk. The adhesive on the tape sticks instantly, so you won't get a chance to reposition it once it is on. Start by pressing down at one end (you can use a microfiber cloth) and work your way towards the other. Applying a fair bit of pressure, go over back a forth the spoiler a few times to make sure that the entire length of tape is in contact with the trunk.
10. Step back and admire the car and your work!
#67
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Thread Starter
You don't need any adhesion promoter or anything of the sort as it is likely to damage your paint.
Step-by-step instructions you need to follow:
1. Get double-sided 3M acrylic foam tape (it usually has a red backing)
2. Get 99% pure isopropyl alcohol (not rubbing alcohol - that has oils in it which you don't want)
3. Get a clean, lint-free rag or two (microfiber will do nicely)
4. Clean the underside of the spoiler with the alcohol. If there is goop on it from a previous application, you can either use Goof Off of WD40 to remove it first. Keep in mind that both of these leave an oily residue behind, which you will need to remove with the alcohol. WARNING - BOTH THE GOOF OFF AND THE ALCOHOL WILL PARTIALLY DISSOLVE (EAT INTO) THE PLASTIC. Do not get either one on any of the exposed surfaces.
5. Once the spoiler is clean and dry, heat it up with a hair dryer and apply the 3M tape. DO NOT use a heat gun as this is much too hot and will burn the plastic. I don't know if the spoiler has recesses for the tape - if it does, make sure you fill them completely. If it doesn't, apply tape to the entire surface that will come in contact with the trunk. LEAVE THE RED BACKING ON THE TAPE for the time being. Press down over the tape and gently "massage" it into the spoiler to make sure you have a good bond.
You can leave the spoiler like this for weeks or even months if you don't want to do everything at once.
6. IIRC, you said you had your trunk recently painted. Fresh paint takes a couple of months or more to fully outgas and cure. Even in water-borne paints (which are actually not water but rather alcohol-borne), only the pigment layer is water-based - the primer and top coat(s) are still VOC solvent-based, and these to take a long time to fully outgas. If it was my trunk, I wouldn't try to stick anything to it for at least 60 days after it is painted, but that's just me. If you live someplace warm, it will cure a little quicker but you're still talking about a month or more. Do not wax the car or put any sealant on it during this time - you want to leave the pores in the paint open so it can outgas properly.
7. When you're ready to put the spoiler on, wash and dry the car. LET IT DRY COMPLETELY before you attempt to put the spoiler on. If you don't have to, do NOT use the alcohol on the paint as it will damage it. A good hand-wash will do the job nicely. IF YOU CAN, LEAVE THE CAR IN THE SUN TO COMPLETELY DRY AND WARM UP THE TRUNK LID. That will save you from having to heat it up with a hair dryer. Wipe the dust off with a clean microfiber cloth just before you're ready to stick on the spoiler.
8. Peel off the red backing from the 3M tape that you previously put on the spoiler. Try not to get any dirt or fingerprints on the tape.
9. Carefully place the spoiler on the trunk. The adhesive on the tape sticks instantly, so you won't get a chance to reposition it once it is on. Start by pressing down at one end (you can use a microfiber cloth) and work your way towards the other. Applying a fair bit of pressure, go over back a forth the spoiler a few times to make sure that the entire length of tape is in contact with the trunk.
10. Step back and admire the car and your work!
#68
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I wouldn't use either. If you have just hand-washed the car (with car shampoo and clean running water), it should be more than sufficiently clean.
The only adhesive promoters that I have ever seen are for plastics - they contain VOCs that eat into (dissolve) the plastic so that you can apply some paints or glues to it that normally wouldn't stick. You don't need or want anything of the sort. You just need a clean, smooth surface for the tape, and besides, the isopropanol will have already partially done this.
#69
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I wouldn't use either. If you have just hand-washed the car (with car shampoo and clean running water), it should be more than sufficiently clean.
The only adhesive promoters that I have ever seen are for plastics - they contain VOCs that eat into (dissolve) the plastic so that you can apply some paints or glues to it that normally wouldn't stick. You don't need or want anything of the sort. You just need a clean, smooth surface for the tape, and besides, the isopropanol will have already partially done this.
The only adhesive promoters that I have ever seen are for plastics - they contain VOCs that eat into (dissolve) the plastic so that you can apply some paints or glues to it that normally wouldn't stick. You don't need or want anything of the sort. You just need a clean, smooth surface for the tape, and besides, the isopropanol will have already partially done this.
Is 91% alcohol fine?
Last edited by w204_Generic; 02-24-2014 at 07:44 PM.
#70
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I don't know where you're looking for the alcohol, but it depends on what type of alcohol it is and what the other 9% are. Here in Canada you can get a 500mL bottle of 99% pure isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol) in any drug store for $5.
#71
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Stay away form the adhesion promoter. It is essentially acetone. It will eat both the plastic and the paint.
I don't know where you're looking for the alcohol, but it depends on what type of alcohol it is and what the other 9% are. Here in Canada you can get a 500mL bottle of 99% pure isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol) in any drug store for $5.
#72
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If you're talking about the stuff that Walmart sells as an antiseptic, it won't bugger anything up because the rest is water, but it may be too diluted to remove all oils (pure 99% isopropanol dehydrates and burns the skin very quickly). See if you can find the 99% somewhere else. If all else fails, you can order it from Amazon.com ( ) but I am sure you can find it locally.
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E92 335i / C63 AMG / GSX-R 600
I had the same problem with my 335. You are not stupid, you are forgetting one key step that most people don't tell you about. Took me 3 attempts as well.
After the spoiler is properly on you need to apply heat and pressure - the more the better. Apply lots of pressure and tape it down - 3M also sells this. You should let it sit for at least 3-4 hours for the perfect hold.
After the spoiler is properly on you need to apply heat and pressure - the more the better. Apply lots of pressure and tape it down - 3M also sells this. You should let it sit for at least 3-4 hours for the perfect hold.
#74
Help with tape ideas
The only thing more you can do for him is to go and actually put it on for him
What's amusing is I'm considering taking mine OFF
lol
Need to search for some pics
Wait
Can someone else actually search for me and post links so it will be easier for me?
After you do I'll keep asking for more
Different colors
Better angles
Etc
After all my time is more valuable (at least to me) than yours (is to me)
What's amusing is I'm considering taking mine OFF
lol
Need to search for some pics
Wait
Can someone else actually search for me and post links so it will be easier for me?
After you do I'll keep asking for more
Different colors
Better angles
Etc
After all my time is more valuable (at least to me) than yours (is to me)