2012 sedan wheel alligment
06-20-2014, 08:05 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
2012 sedan wheel alligment
Hi guys,
Does anybody have picture of a stock 2012,2013 wheel alligment data like mine?
I just wanna check settings for Caster cause i cant get whats the default value for those new C63s
Im trying to make track setup and did KW v3 with K-MAC bushings
Right now stearing wheel is turning harder and doesnt go quickly to the center when you realise it as it was doing it before all modifications
Does anybody have picture of a stock 2012,2013 wheel alligment data like mine?
I just wanna check settings for Caster cause i cant get whats the default value for those new C63s
Im trying to make track setup and did KW v3 with K-MAC bushings
Right now stearing wheel is turning harder and doesnt go quickly to the center when you realise it as it was doing it before all modifications
06-20-2014, 09:56 AM
#2
The toe amount in the front or rear, is what will have the greatest impact, if the car wants to go straight. But, the closer to 0, then the car will feel less stable in straight line.
There's more resistance to center the wheel because, you've lowered the car. It's pretty simple. Because, you have changed the angels between the steering rack and wheels.
Personally, I think you should take your car to a performance tuning suspension shop and explain your problem and not try and fix it by yourself.
Also, at this point comparing values of stock suspension and yours are two different animals.
There's more resistance to center the wheel because, you've lowered the car. It's pretty simple. Because, you have changed the angels between the steering rack and wheels.
Personally, I think you should take your car to a performance tuning suspension shop and explain your problem and not try and fix it by yourself.
Also, at this point comparing values of stock suspension and yours are two different animals.
Last edited by Petakii63; 06-20-2014 at 10:02 AM.
06-20-2014, 10:35 AM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Well im working in Abu Dhabi and belive me cant find a shop who knows what they are doing regarding track setup 
so i have to do it myself. All shops here knows only how to install expensive parts but not how to tune them
My mistake was that i didnt took a reading before those modification were donne, how it was planned, to have a starting point and that was due to problems during car modification and parts arriving. Thats why im asking if somebody has readings from a stock car so i can start from the begining.
Computers they are using here they have camber and toe (factory settings) in a database but not a caster which i need as a starting point. My camber is increased from original values due to tire teperatures i have recorded on my last track day. Now i have to take it again to see what they will be now.
so i have to do it myself. All shops here knows only how to install expensive parts but not how to tune themMy mistake was that i didnt took a reading before those modification were donne, how it was planned, to have a starting point and that was due to problems during car modification and parts arriving. Thats why im asking if somebody has readings from a stock car so i can start from the begining.
Computers they are using here they have camber and toe (factory settings) in a database but not a caster which i need as a starting point. My camber is increased from original values due to tire teperatures i have recorded on my last track day. Now i have to take it again to see what they will be now.
06-20-2014, 10:47 AM
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Well i have sent 2 emails to KW but no reply. PPPerformance did my engine tuning and they installed K-Mac bushings but thats it, they cant tune the chassis
06-20-2014, 11:11 PM
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
stock camber is around -1*40' (degree and minutes - 60 minutes in a degree)
stock caster is around 9*30-10*30 but 11 wont hurt.
The higher the caster the more stable the car is at higher speeds but will suffer at low speed turning. caster is also one of the main things that controls steering wheel return. Depending on how much you dropped your car, it changed the suspension geometry. That can be a bad thing, thats why lowering a car 4 inches although lowering the center of gravity actually makes it handle worse.
If your running race/track tires. Id go more on the camber like -3* front and -2 1/2* in the rear. Caster is fine where it is, but something i've noticed is true super cars like the SLR tend to only have 5-6* of caster but im sure that is a result of having double wish bone suspension and perfected geometry. The toe is going to be the preference in getting a balance you want for over/under steer. Id probably run almost 0 toe, maybe very slight toe in, and alot more toe in the rear, like 4mm. The factory spec is very high for the toe in the rear most likely for track setup. Good luck and dont drive on the street with that setup as it will kill your tires.
stock caster is around 9*30-10*30 but 11 wont hurt.
The higher the caster the more stable the car is at higher speeds but will suffer at low speed turning. caster is also one of the main things that controls steering wheel return. Depending on how much you dropped your car, it changed the suspension geometry. That can be a bad thing, thats why lowering a car 4 inches although lowering the center of gravity actually makes it handle worse.
If your running race/track tires. Id go more on the camber like -3* front and -2 1/2* in the rear. Caster is fine where it is, but something i've noticed is true super cars like the SLR tend to only have 5-6* of caster but im sure that is a result of having double wish bone suspension and perfected geometry. The toe is going to be the preference in getting a balance you want for over/under steer. Id probably run almost 0 toe, maybe very slight toe in, and alot more toe in the rear, like 4mm. The factory spec is very high for the toe in the rear most likely for track setup. Good luck and dont drive on the street with that setup as it will kill your tires.
06-20-2014, 11:30 PM
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Thxs buddy for the numbers! Thats why i didnt wanna go more then camber 2.5 but Ill keep at the moment what i have till first track day and also keeping my eyes on a tires to see how much more they gonna be burned on the road with this setup 
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06-21-2014, 08:06 AM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Ok this is what ive got from Mercedes. For 2012 sedan values are the one with marker.
Who knows how to read those settings to be setted up on a normal alligment machine? Whats the purpose of those numbers in a first colum?
Who knows how to read those settings to be setted up on a normal alligment machine? Whats the purpose of those numbers in a first colum?
06-22-2014, 01:03 PM
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
numbers in the first row are degrees- which determine the ride height. You use the Romess gauge (fancy mb angle gauge) put it on the front lower control arms and rear axle shafts to get the angle. The angle is the ride height. Depending on the ride height the spec changes
06-22-2014, 01:17 PM
#10
Member
Thread Starter
numbers in the first row are degrees- which determine the ride height. You use the Romess gauge (fancy mb angle gauge) put it on the front lower control arms and rear axle shafts to get the angle. The angle is the ride height. Depending on the ride height the spec changes
THXS
