To All Who Track Their Car
I'd be greatly interested in switching to the more durable XR70 pads as well, especially after your experience with the XT970's!
Also got the rear brake hoses with the corrected length and a wheel stud conversion kit.
Last night I only had time to swap out the pads (put the street pads in) and install the front stud conversion. Way easier to install the spacers and rims that way on a freely rotating knuckle - no need to line up the holes of knuckle, spacer and rim exactly to be able to get the wheel bolt in.
Won't be able to do anything else for the next 2 weeks as I will be gone on vacation.
Anyone has the same question should continue posting in the thread so Wobble64 can get them all sorted out and provide you with his feedback and suggestion once he returns form his vacation.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




Give me a shout if you have questions, I probably can help given I have just done it a couple weeks ago myself.




I don't have the tires or suspension or horsepower that Wobble has so, even though Wobble melted his, I elected to try out the XT970 racing pads. Initial experience has been very favorable. I went out to bed the new pads, and the first time I really pounced on the pedal the loose crap in the back of the coupe all sailed forward and nearly killed me. I love the way these things bite!
I have a couple road course opportunities coming up, hope to be able to share some track-use feedback soon.
Thanks for sharing and lots of luck with your new brakes, we are glad to be able to offer this package for an easy DIY installation.
Also want to thank 'Wobble64' for his persistence and efforts to make this kit possible.
All the best to those who have purchased this kit.




It's a 2-post lift, thankfully.




For those who want to learn more about RB two piece rotors and XT track pad combo may refer to this long term review on GT-R forum here:
RacingBrake 2012 GTR OEM Replacement Rotor/Pad Review




"Race Optimal is the world's only database of computer generated racing line maps, helping trackday enthusiasts and racing competitors build on their knowledge of the fastest way around a circuit.
Racing line maps and simulation videos show you how the computer executes the optimal lap.
Welcome to the state-of-the-art in racing line optimization!"
http://www.raceoptimal.com/
As a result Raceoptimal says an ideal Miata can do NCM in 2:22 - when my instructor in his Miata did 2:31 there. Their ideal time for the GT3 at NCM supposedly is 2.07 when the fastest we had seen with a professionally prepped GT3 during my last track day was 2:16.
So - do not expect to be close to the posted 'ideal' timings! Maybe that just says we all still have a LONG way to go and lots to learn. :-)
I will definitely spend some more time on that site before my next track day mid-September.




They provide track lines for several different cars but as you noted are not very specific about the performance envelope for each. It looks like you can buy a custom file for your specific car and tires that may do a better job of representing optimal times for your vehicle.
Certainly not precise, but still a very cool tool!

Now the rear brake hoses fit without any strain on the hose, even when jacked up. Another thing checked off.
no kink or strain now




- RB front caliper bracket/adapter to knuckle
- stock front caliper to new RB aluminum bracket/adapter
- rear BS caliper to knuckle
Any other torque specs I may be missing?
Thanks
Torque
Bleed Screws and Crossover lines - 10ft-lbs.
Mounting bolts (to bolt adapter to vehicle spindle): check with your vehicle's specification, usually 45-50 ft-lbs
Caliper bolts (to bolt caliper to adapter): 35-40 ft-lbs
I used 50 ft-lbs for the adapter to knuckle (front and back) and 40 ft-lbs caliper to AL adapter. Re bleeder screw, just gently hand tighten - easy does it. I used Loctite for the caliper to adapter screw, just in case.
Have fun!!




One other thing while I'm thinking of it. I assume the new pads don't have a place to put the MB brake pad wear sensors (correct me if I'm wrong)? Did you just disable yours somehow, unplug them, or drill holes in the RB pads?
Thanks!
If you break one, they are only 15$ at the dealership.





