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I just had H&R springs installed on my 2015 507 coupe, no other suspension parts other than the springs. My local MB dealership installed the springs and is saying the car pulls to the right on the highway. They are claiming that the car needs adjustable lower control arms because they cannot dial in the car enough to correct it to drive straight. Is this bs from the dealership? Has anyone else ever had this issue with H&R springs?
Same issue here, '12 coupe pulls to the right after H&R springs install. I've had an alignment performed already, taking it in to another dealership today to get OEM camber bolts installed and re-aligned to see if it will help. I'll keep you posted.
Mine pulls to the right a lot too. Just installed them about two months ago and had two alignments done and still pulls a lot to the right. If anyone finds a solution please let us know
Same issue here, '12 coupe pulls to the right after H&R springs install. I've had an alignment performed already, taking it in to another dealership today to get OEM camber bolts installed and re-aligned to see if it will help. I'll keep you posted.
K-MAC PRODUCT BACKGROUND/SOLUTIONS
ONLY ADJUSTMENT DEALERS OR ALIGNMENT SHOPS HAVE TO WORK WITH IS FRONT AND REAR TOE !
NO CAMBER OR CASTER TO RESOLVE PREMATURE/COSTLY EDGE TIRE WEAR, STEERING PULL OR TO COMPENSATE FOR ALTERING HEIGHT, LOAD CARRYING, FITTING WIDE PROFILE TIRES/WHEELS OR SIMPLY HAVING ONGOING ADJUSTMENT CAPABILITY TO RETURN TO FACTORY SPECS AFTER CURB KNOCK DAMAGE. TRACK DAYS NOT BEING ABLE TO ADJUST TO REDUCE UNDERSTEER/LAPTIMES – BY GOING DEEPER INTO THE CORNERS WITH IMPROVED TRACTION AND BRAKING RESPONSE!
WE SAW THE NEED THEREFORE – TO REINSTATE THE OEM PRECISE CAMBER AND CASTER ADJUSTMENT FACILITIES OF THE EARLY 90’S. By designing Front and also Rear kits to suit virtually every model Mercedes up to 2015 (Sedans, Wagons, SUV’s, Commercials).
The often heard statement “FULL FRONT AND REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT”.... again means what it says with K-MAC.
YOU CAN FIT OFFSET BOLTS (FRONT ONLY),BUTTHE MAJOR PROBLEM HERE is they are inaccurate “one only position” bolts, offering a minimal .3 of one degree which equates to only 3mm (1/8”) offset.
INSTEAD THE UNIQUE K-MAC PATENTED DESIGN ADJUSTABLE BUSHING KITS OFFER UP TO 4 TIMES THIS ADJUSTMENT RANGE “AND ARE PRECISELY ADJUSTABLE”. Meaning you can dial in “accurately” (under load) direct on alignment rack!
FIXING IT RIGHT THE 1ST TIME – ending the frustration of ongoing visits to dealers or alignment shops or continually changing tire brands because of both the minimal adjustment provided and the inaccuracy of these “one only position” bolts.
CAMBER – Allows to actually change the tire contact angle, improving wear/traction/understeer/oversteer.
CASTER – Resolves steering pull, increases steering response. With better turn in and high speed directional control, along with improved anti dive/lift under brake and acceleration.
FRONT (Camber and Caster) – Added bonus is that the K-MAC bushes also replace the 4 highest wearing bushes. We have the design expertise of manufacturing suspension bushings now for over 50 years with these actual bushes featuring twice the load bearing area. Along with the OEM air voided, oil filled bushings being eliminated, yet (unlike majority of other aftermarket brands) still incorporating essential 2 axis movement – allowing suspension arms to travel through their required arcs without binding/locking up. The result - also improved brake and steering response.
REAR (Camber and extra Toe) – Unlike “Camber Arms” which to reduce inner edge tire wear must move “top of tire outwards” reducing all important clearance to outer fender – K-MAC bushings adjust lower arm “inwards”. Again precise “single wrench” adjustment – supplied with bush extraction tool so can be fitted on vehicle. With extra Toe adjustment to compensate for the new Camber facility.
IT’S ALL PART OF A TOTAL SYSTEM . . . FOR TRACK DAYS/COMPETITION– We also manufacture Front “Replacement Top Strut Mounts” – no modifications. Precisely Camber and Caster adjustable.
These unique patented design K-MAC “Quick change - Strut kits” in combination with the lower arm adjusters provide over 4 degrees of extra Negative Camber! Seriously lowering lap times by reducing understeer – increasing traction/braking/ steering response. Allowing to go “deeper into the corners” and improving the ability to “hit those corner apexes” every time in the pursuit of front row of the grid lap times.
They are available to suit W204 including Black Series (Coil Spring Models): Stage 2 (Street/Race) #502616-2L Stage 3 (Full Race) #502616-3L
*Similar K-MAC kits are available for virtually all other coil spring models that have “strut” front suspensions (not wishbone). Example W124, 129, 205, 209 (Black Series), 212 also 2013 – 2015 A, B, CLA, GLA.
K-MAC “STRUT ADJUSTERS” CHECKLIST/FEATURES: 1. Not soft billet alloy but highest aircraft 7075 grade 2. Stage 2 centers similar to OEM but elastomer not rubber for quicker response times – also replaceable 3. Stage 3 self align spherical bearings (PTFE lined). Heavy Duty (massive 30mm ID) – also replaceable 4. Can fit and adjust with or without strut brace 5. Separate Camber and Caster adjustment 6. Adjust from engine bay – fast, accurate (under load) direct on alignment rack 7. Can record separate settings for Race/Track days 8. No height increase (and minimum stack height with coil overs) 9. Separate heavy duty radial thrust bearings for steering loads 10. Fit with OEM diameter springs or popular 60-70mm (2 3/8” – 2 ¾”) ID coil overs
FOR THE REAR – ALSO A BUSHING KIT TO REPLACE ALL “12” LINK BUSHES (W204 #502628K)
Allows dramatically improved rear end location, stability with resultant tauter handling response and getting power, traction to the ground. Genuine K-MAC bushings – the alternative to the unforgiving harshness of short life delrin type bushings that soon pound out.
W204 Front: Camber and Caster bushing kit (All) #502616K $480 Camber and Caster Strut top kit (Coil Spring models) Stage 2 (Street/Race) #502616-2L $545 Stage 3 (Full Race) #502616-3L $545
For what it is worth, I have HR springs on my 2014 C63 507 for 15 months now and never had any pulling to the right or other alignment issues. I very much doubt such an issue would be caused by springs. If a slight change in height makes the car pull into a different direction in away that cannot be fixed with an alignment, then something else is wrong or bent.
Said differently - you just learned about an issue you have and now at least you know and can address it, for example with camber bushings as mentioned by K-Mac.
Blaming springs for causing a misalignment is really just shooting the messenger, I think. The lowering may expose a pre-existing condition.
I didn't think springs could cause this, but SO many people on here report the same issue. I just did springs a couple weeks ago and sure enough, it pulls to the right now. It must be something with the geometry, I doubt all these people with different model years, miles, locations, etc all have the same type of damage to their suspension.
Could the springs caused corner balance to be off from original specs?
Ding Ding Ding we have a winner folks.
I almost guarantee that the corner balance is off due to a geometry issue or inconsistent spring rate issue. One big problem is that our cars are not the same. There are very significant differences in build from what I see in person and on these forums.
I have H&R coil overs. When initially installed my car pulled a bit. I went to a buddies house and we put the car on scales on a FLAT LEVEL floor and I saw the reason. We evened up the weight distribution which actually did not take a lot of adjustment and like magic the car drives perfectly straight again.
Now my only issue is that I love the look of being lowered. No rub issues. The car also handles great as I do a lot of driving on some of the best sports car roads in the country (north Georgia, North Carolina). The ISSUE is the suspension is so damn stiff at times I wonder if I just welded posts in place of the springs. My pano roof also plays a horrible musical while driving due to the body flex which is magnified by the stiff springs.
I think I will bite the bullet and do the KW setup soon. I have not been able to snag a ride in a KW lowered car but the general info online is they are a lot better riding.
As for the springs ... Maybe the rates on the springs are not consistent? I will confirm adjusting the corner balance made a very noticeable difference in my case.
Ding Ding Ding we have a winner folks.
I almost guarantee that the corner balance is off due to a geometry issue or inconsistent spring rate issue. One big problem is that our cars are not the same. There are very significant differences in build from what I see in person and on these forums.
I have H&R coil overs. When initially installed my car pulled a bit. I went to a buddies house and we put the car on scales on a FLAT LEVEL floor and I saw the reason. We evened up the weight distribution which actually did not take a lot of adjustment and like magic the car drives perfectly straight again.
Now my only issue is that I love the look of being lowered. No rub issues. The car also handles great as I do a lot of driving on some of the best sports car roads in the country (north Georgia, North Carolina). The ISSUE is the suspension is so damn stiff at times I wonder if I just welded posts in place of the springs. My pano roof also plays a horrible musical while driving due to the body flex which is magnified by the stiff springs.
I think I will bite the bullet and do the KW setup soon.
Man, none of that sound good at all. To each his own, but I can't imagine spending money to make a great car horribly worse in every way, all to get rid of a half inch of fender gap.
Man, none of that sound good at all. To each his own, but I can't imagine spending money to make a great car horribly worse in every way, all to get rid of a half inch of fender gap.
Not that simple. Stock the car looks a bit like a monster truck especially in the front end. It also had a bit of body roll and wheel hop when accelerating. A benifit of the coil overs is the lower CG, min body roll, and I am not getting wheel hope any more with traction control off. My pano roof made tons of noise before and is probably one of the biggest complaints about the C63. On nice driving roads and out on track days the coil overs and updated suspension really are a nice improvement over the stock ride height. Now around town with the city traffic and all the ballless mini van drivers it is a bit on the stiff side.
Stock is fine but not a lot of people on this forum are hear because they want to drive a stock car. In addition if you have ever driven a Black Series they are VERY stiff to say the least. I don't think they ruined that car.
That's quite an analogy, the car looks like a monster truck LOL but no matter what it looks like I will not sacrifice ride quality for looks.
I would have bought slammed Honda if ride quality did not matter.
09-15-2015, 10:56 AM
