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So one evening car shut off on the highway and threw a slew of codes 14 to be exact relating to circuit A and B, I'll get the exact codes in the morning. Car drives fine and there is no shaking or chugging but the car takes a few tries to start and the oil cooler fan stays on for a minute after shut off. With some research I tried the camshaft positon sensors on bank A and B intake/exhaust. Cleared the codes and started the car a few times and same codes reappear. Thinking I should try the solenoids next before trying the camshaft adjusters. Need help finding this solenoid so if you guys have a link or part number i would appreciate it. Thank You
P0190 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0340 Mercedes-Benz - Camshaft Position Sensor 'A' Circuit Malfunction
P0343 Mercedes-Benz - Camshaft Position Sensor 'A' Circuit High Input
P0348 - Camshaft Position Sensor 'A' Circuit High Input Bank 2
P0368 - Camshaft Position Sensor 'B' Circuit High Bank 1
P0393 - Camshaft Position Sensor 'B' Circuit High Bank 2
P0452 Mercedes-Benz - Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Low Input
To update this thread - seems to be a wiring issue potentially somewhere on the main engine harness. Had a shop locally check it out with Xentry and said only the dealer would be able to diagnose this. Apparently, they have a computer that can push voltage to the main harness and figure out where electrical gremlins are hanging out.
Check grounding and install additional that goes to other parts of the engine.
Think of ground continuity between portions of the engine;
The block may be grounded, but continuity to the heads is through the head bolts because the head gasket may be an insulator.
The material of the head gasket reinforcement rings may be metallic or may have some sort of coating which may not conduct.
Now the new head bolts went in with a paste which may not conduct.
The intake manifold will only conduct whatever passes through the head bolts and manifold bolts. The manifold bolt holes don't look like there's no oxydation and they conduct no problem.
Try to put an ohm meter between the manifold and the ground stud.
Separately, All these wires that are going to sensors in the code call outs, may pass through one and the same wiring connector.
Once found , I would disconnect and re connect it.
Check grounding and install additional that goes to other parts of the engine.
Think of ground continuity between portions of the engine;
The block may be grounded, but continuity to the heads is through the head bolts because the head gasket may be an insulator.
The material of the head gasket reinforcement rings may be metallic or may have some sort of coating which may not conduct.
Now the new head bolts went in with a paste which may not conduct.
The intake manifold will only conduct whatever passes through the head bolts and manifold bolts. The manifold bolt holes don't look like there's no oxydation and they conduct no problem.
Try to put an ohm meter between the manifold and the ground stud.
Separately, All these wires that are going to sensors in the code call outs, may pass through one and the same wiring connector.
Once found , I would disconnect and re connect it.
Read this a few times and this is what I'm getting out of this: The heads might not be grounded due to the new head bolts and therefore check that the heads are properly grounded. Correct?
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Originally Posted by AMG3.2
No cliffs in Texas. Any other ideas?
I don’t know man. Drown it? Anything sounds better than testing the headbolts/gasket/manifold for continuity with an ohm meter. I really hate electrical gremlins, sorry.
How does the main engine wiring harness even develop a fault like this? Would the dealer tools be able to figure out exactly where there’s a break in the path by actuating each branch? If you clear the codes do they come back immediately, or is it intermittent?
I don’t know man. Drown it? Anything sounds better than testing the headbolts/gasket/manifold for continuity with an ohm meter. I really hate electrical gremlins, sorry.
How does the main engine wiring harness even develop a fault like this? Would the dealer tools be able to figure out exactly where there’s a break in the path by actuating each branch? If you clear the codes do they come back immediately, or is it intermittent?
You and me both man. That's why this is one of the few times I'm willing to drive it to the dealer and tell them to call me when it's fixed. I can deal with mechanical issues, but not electrical. When all codes are cleared via STAR (per Mercedes mechanic in town), they come back pretty much instantly. They think it's a short somewhere, but apparently, the dealer does have a tool where they can tell exactly where there is a break in the path. I don't know much about electrical currents and how that fun stuff works, so I'm taking this shops word for it.
Per Vladds suggestion, I just tested the heads for ground, and they are properly grounded so doubt that would be the case.
There is no reason your independent cant diagnose a simple break in a wire unless they are incompetent, lazy or just dont want to do it. Find a new independent. not all techs are created equally
There is no reason your independent cant diagnose a simple break in a wire unless they are incompetent, lazy or just dont want to do it. Find a new independent. not all techs are created equally
IDK man. I'm new to Austin and I don't seem to find many benz or even european independent shops. I took it to the best I could find who has all the STAR, XENTRY equipment but they couldn't figure it out.
Update: Dealership called me and told me they found the harness with wire to wire contact somewhere. Now need a new ECU as it now has an internal fault. $2400 bill. Anyone know how to program ECU's via either Star or Xentry?
Did they say which wire shorted and the location? Was there a rub point somewhere you didn't notice when assembling things back together after doing HBs?
Did they say which wire shorted and the location? Was there a rub point somewhere you didn't notice when assembling things back together after doing HBs?
I haven't asked yet. Trying to do some due diligence prior to giving them the go-ahead. I'm really close to selling this car now. Just don't have the will to be dealing with things like this.
I haven't asked yet. Trying to do some due diligence prior to giving them the go-ahead. I'm really close to selling this car now. Just don't have the will to be dealing with things like this.
hey there ! I’m new here but I made a profile just to get in touch with you to see what was the end result , I’m currently in the same predicament and haven’t visited the dealer yet . Just looking for input on this issue for my 09 c63 sitting at 65,400 k miles . I can’t see myself selling it over this and I’m willing to fight the fight til she’s fixed !
hey there ! I’m new here but I made a profile just to get in touch with you to see what was the end result , I’m currently in the same predicament and haven’t visited the dealer yet . Just looking for input on this issue for my 09 c63 sitting at 65,400 k miles . I can’t see myself selling it over this and I’m willing to fight the fight til she’s fixed !
it's likely the ECU. I would have it checked out by a specialist that works with the Bosch ME97 ECU. We are starting to get to the age where these cars are now showing ECU problems, particularly because many of them have bad capacitors on the board and over time they leak or fail and start taking out other components around the board.
a cooler fan that continues to run continuously after you shut the car off, long after what the normal cooling period would be for a hot engine is a telltale sign that the ECU is dying.
Most ECU shops that specialize in the ME97 ECU can check for about $150. Repair ranges from $600 to around $900 depending on what's failed, or in many cases you can buy another ECU and the contents of the ECU can be cloned over so the new ECU is plug and play.
Mine failed after a coil pack went out and this also caused three other spark circuits to stop working. After a failed repair from a local shop that didn't have a lot of experience working with the Bosch ME97 (they were mostly heavy equipment and diesel ECUs), I mailed it off to The ECU Pro (google, can't post link) who confirmed there were issues with my ECU and they helped me get a replacement ECU and cloned the contents over. In my specific case the damage was so bad it could not be repaired.
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