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Bro! I'm back in NYC next week and would love to see your car if you're around...are the fenders on yet? Don't make me drive by the job and be a creeper
Lmao welcome back
They not on yet unfortunately. i need to find a body shop thats willing to do it and for a fair price some guys around here are smoking the magic pipe and quoting me crazy numbers and the guys who's fair i have to wait till march to drop it off.
come by either way just text me before 4ish so i know to take the c63 so i dont take my other car. i dont drive it much no more.
Now, I know the install/paint cost will be very reasonable but molding them... well I don't recommend it, neither does HMS Germany (8 piece widebody = 8 pieces that can potentially crack) but you can try.
Originally Posted by mthis
Tnx
yea im trying to but having a hard time finding the rite people to do the project.
Now, I know the install/paint cost will be very reasonable but molding them... well I don't recommend it, neither does HMS Germany (8 piece widebody = 8 pieces that can potentially crack) but you can try.
tnx ill look into it.
what im looking for is this when its done
Yes, that RS-Domanig C63 has tons of body work and they modified the HMS flares to like 50mm+ , makes sense to mold them in at that point. But it seems very labor intensive but I hope that shop or others quote you a decent price.
Yes, that RS-Domanig C63 has tons of body work and they modified the HMS flares to like 50mm+ , makes sense to mold them in at that point. But it seems very labor intensive but I hope that shop or others quote you a decent price.
50mm plus would be nice but what they do to get that. if its to much i might just do it regular then . i want it done i have that kit for a while now and its killing me not having it on the car.
Looks like they molded them first and used the existing arches on the HMS fenders to widen them with fiberglass and filler. If you notice the shape, they are much more curved around the edges than the originals. The photo posted above is the fenders in the process of molding in and not yet extended.
Also I would go nuts if I had them laying around for long but I might be joining you on the lengthy install process too. Finding the right wheels and aero to match everything takes time.
I suggest to do it once and do it right. It might seem expensive, but it'll be even more expensive when you take it to a "Cheaper" shop, and have a nightmare experience with.
Just my opinion, i've been down the trying to save money with a cheaper shop / less experienced shop road, ended up spending more in the long run. Headaches, car out of commission, etc.
I suggest to do it once and do it right. It might seem expensive, but it'll be even more expensive when you take it to a "Cheaper" shop, and have a nightmare experience with.
Just my opinion, i've been down the trying to save money with a cheaper shop / less experienced shop road, ended up spending more in the long run. Headaches, car out of commission, etc.
Best of luck mthis!
tnx man i learned the hard way, that the cheap way cost double or triple in the end.
Looks like they molded them first and used the existing arches on the HMS fenders to widen them with fiberglass and filler. If you notice the shape, they are much more curved around the edges than the originals. The photo posted above is the fenders in the process of molding in and not yet extended.
Also I would go nuts if I had them laying around for long but I might be joining you on the lengthy install process too. Finding the right wheels and aero to match everything takes time.
ok i see it more now that u mentioned it.
as for wheels i was going in blind so i got what i had and only 2 for the rear. that set up wont last long i think of doing 18 front 19rear or 19 front and 20 rear the space back there and 18s loook very tiny even with a drop.
Interesting logic but being more expensive may give you piece of mind but it's not always the best way.
If you bring "whatever" part to a body shop, walking in completely clueless and they will charge you whatever they want especially because it's a Mercedes Benz. Every city has a reputable body shop. If your being qouted too cheap, it's probably too good to be true, if it's too expensive your just being taken advantage of. As you go through this entire thread and check the detailed information on how these fenders need to be installed, you will be able to call your preferred body shop and school them on how you want them installed.
For example, I asked for rough estimates and was being qouted $3000-4000. After exchanging a few emails and showing them the videos, pictures and step by step installation steps, the quote suddenly was cut in half. At the moment I am still trying to decide on getting them installed at a body shop or getting my hands dirty and doing it myself (I've done a few wide body installs) with a body shop hand.
My god... 19/20 stagger would be insane. 20" rear would open up a whole different world of available tire sizes. I don't think anyone has done a stagger wheel set up but I've ran it before on a different RWD platform and I loved it.
Originally Posted by mthis
ok i see it more now that u mentioned it.
as for wheels i was going in blind so i got what i had and only 2 for the rear. that set up wont last long i think of doing 18 front 19rear or 19 front and 20 rear the space back there and 18s loook very tiny even with a drop.
Interesting logic but being more expensive may give you piece of mind but it's not always the best way.
If you bring "whatever" part to a body shop, walking in completely clueless and they will charge you whatever they want especially because it's a Mercedes Benz. Every city has a reputable body shop. If your being qouted too cheap, it's probably too good to be true, if it's too expensive your just being taken advantage of. As you go through this entire thread and check the detailed information on how these fenders need to be installed, you will be able to call your preferred body shop and school them on how you want them installed.
For example, I asked for rough estimates and was being qouted $3000-4000. After exchanging a few emails and showing them the videos, pictures and step by step installation steps, the quote suddenly was cut in half. At the moment I am still trying to decide on getting them installed at a body shop or getting my hands dirty and doing it myself (I've done a few wide body installs) with a body shop hand.
thats very true as well. i need to start looking at some more shop or else it wont get done till 2017
Interesting logic but being more expensive may give you piece of mind but it's not always the best way.
If you bring "whatever" part to a body shop, walking in completely clueless and they will charge you whatever they want especially because it's a Mercedes Benz. Every city has a reputable body shop. If your being qouted too cheap, it's probably too good to be true, if it's too expensive your just being taken advantage of. As you go through this entire thread and check the detailed information on how these fenders need to be installed, you will be able to call your preferred body shop and school them on how you want them installed.
For example, I asked for rough estimates and was being qouted $3000-4000. After exchanging a few emails and showing them the videos, pictures and step by step installation steps, the quote suddenly was cut in half. At the moment I am still trying to decide on getting them installed at a body shop or getting my hands dirty and doing it myself (I've done a few wide body installs) with a body shop hand.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that more expensive is worth it.
I mean, that, typically, if you're going to a shop that knows what they're doing, and wont' cut corners, you'll be charged accordingly. Like you said if the deal is too good to be true, they're probably cutting corners somewhere.
If it's astronomical, you might be getting the run-around with the pricing. But, just take it to a reputable shop that's known in your area, that's all I'm saying.
The install isn't the difficult part. The cutting isn't either, I've done my fair share of cutting and installs and all that too. The variation in prices I seem to notice depending onplaces are:
1) Are they going to paint the quarter panel and bumper after they cut it?
2) Are they going to blend the next panel over to make sure it matches well?
3) Are they going to properly seal the flares, or just throw on some screws and call it a day after cutting?
4) Are they moulding it into the body?
5) If/when they repaint the quarter panel/bumper, are they just lightly sanding it down and giving it another coat of paint over it? Are they just blending it? Are they actually going to properly prime/paint it?
There's lots of different ways to go about painting. You can half *** it, and potentially have some orange peel, if oyu're OK with that. In addition, anybody can paint/prep. Whether it's done well is another story.
I just have experneice working at a body-shop, and, I've seen all sorts of previous "Repairs" or "good deals". They usually end up looking like ****. Doing a properly good job, takes a lot of time and effort.
In addition, the problem I find with the moulding and the expertise is that, if you do choose to mould it in, you have to trim the FRP Fender a little, and build a small section otu of FRP to get the lines properly correct. You also ahve the prep the panel(s) really well, or they won't stick, and can crack when the temperature changes.
I've had lots of stuff moulded before, from lips into bumpers, to full bumpers together, and I've never had an issue. Granted, that's PU, but, still.
There are many ways to mould too. Some will build using FRP, some will build just using Bondo. Which way are they quoting you? FRP is a PITA to work with, Bondo isn't as bad.
I'm just saying, and you should know, that expensive doesn't mean good, and cheap doesn't mean bad. It just depends on what you're looking for. I've gotten great work out of cheap labour, and not so great work out of expensive labour. To each their own, just gotta find the right shop!
My god... 19/20 stagger would be insane. 20" rear would open up a whole different world of available tire sizes. I don't think anyone has done a stagger wheel set up but I've ran it before on a different RWD platform and I loved it.
i need my R compound tires and 19/20 is veryy hard to find and very expensive. maybe i get another 2x19x11.5 and seenhow it fits before i get a final set up to keep.
So I finally got a response back from a buddy of mine. He said in order for him to get an exact paint match, he'll have to paint the entire both sides of the car to blend in the color.
The cost is way more than I intended it to be. I'm out unfortunately.
I understand where you are coming from by listing all the worst case scenarios of a hack job. I have talked to HMS back and forth about the install process. There is enough information to where I can share it with the people who have the fenders currently (not installed) and in the process of ordering.
But to answer your questions.
My paint (Obsidian Black) in the rear quarters/doors will not be touched.
I plan on painting my FL rear bumper as well. and I will be doing all the prepping, sanding, priming myself for all the new parts. If the existing paint isn't bad, there is no reason why you would remove perfectly good OE paint and repaint it. They are painting the fenders and rear bumper to the OE Paint code (197) and blending it in to match. This is the way HMS does them and this is the way I will do it. Molding and such isn't something they've done so that portion doesn't apply to me.
Because the fenders are hand made FRP and great quality. Poor fitment will not be an issue and to be honest...How many authentic, high quality body kits do you think a body shop sees on a regular basis? Not many...
Most of them are cheaply mass produced overseas and most of the labor in the install is getting it to fit properly with heat, clamps, cutting and removing lazy, warped parts. Also they are remaking some areas from scratch just so it lines up properly. Prepping everything myself and the fitment issue out of the way, that takes a huge chunk of labor work involved and money saved.
As far as rust prevention, sealing. I have never in "my personal experience" seen a body shop cut OE metal and just "bolt" fenders on. When cutting you are going to have sharp edges and gouges. You trim them down as best as you can and you use a hammer to bend the metal upwards away from the wheel arch, then you sand out the rough edges and you spot weld the metal so there is a tight join. After this you clean the metal with a degreasing agent and now you are able to prime this area and it is ready for the final coat of rust prevention/oxidation. Now there are 100's of chemicals and undercoats out there so you can use those to seal this area so you won't have any issues. The screws are there to hold the flares together for shape and hold. There are also a few more screws that you bolt on the underside for hold. But HMS recommends automotive glue/adhesive (comes in many colors) for the final process to install the fenders onto the body.
The most important part of having it turn out nice is the prep work. Since I plan on carefully prepping everything myself, I will treat everything like a piece of art. There is also no way Bondo will be touching my car. Paint wise, it depends on where you take it and how experienced the painter is, quality of paint. But luckily I am able to work with a lot of well known and experienced shops in the area.
Originally Posted by Phil Chow
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that more expensive is worth it.
I mean, that, typically, if you're going to a shop that knows what they're doing, and wont' cut corners, you'll be charged accordingly. Like you said if the deal is too good to be true, they're probably cutting corners somewhere.
If it's astronomical, you might be getting the run-around with the pricing. But, just take it to a reputable shop that's known in your area, that's all I'm saying.
The install isn't the difficult part. The cutting isn't either, I've done my fair share of cutting and installs and all that too. The variation in prices I seem to notice depending onplaces are:
1) Are they going to paint the quarter panel and bumper after they cut it?
2) Are they going to blend the next panel over to make sure it matches well?
3) Are they going to properly seal the flares, or just throw on some screws and call it a day after cutting?
4) Are they moulding it into the body?
5) If/when they repaint the quarter panel/bumper, are they just lightly sanding it down and giving it another coat of paint over it? Are they just blending it? Are they actually going to properly prime/paint it?
There's lots of different ways to go about painting. You can half *** it, and potentially have some orange peel, if oyu're OK with that. In addition, anybody can paint/prep. Whether it's done well is another story.
I just have experneice working at a body-shop, and, I've seen all sorts of previous "Repairs" or "good deals". They usually end up looking like ****. Doing a properly good job, takes a lot of time and effort.
In addition, the problem I find with the moulding and the expertise is that, if you do choose to mould it in, you have to trim the FRP Fender a little, and build a small section otu of FRP to get the lines properly correct. You also ahve the prep the panel(s) really well, or they won't stick, and can crack when the temperature changes.
I've had lots of stuff moulded before, from lips into bumpers, to full bumpers together, and I've never had an issue. Granted, that's PU, but, still.
There are many ways to mould too. Some will build using FRP, some will build just using Bondo. Which way are they quoting you? FRP is a PITA to work with, Bondo isn't as bad.
I'm just saying, and you should know, that expensive doesn't mean good, and cheap doesn't mean bad. It just depends on what you're looking for. I've gotten great work out of cheap labour, and not so great work out of expensive labour. To each their own, just gotta find the right shop!
Enough ranting now!
Yes, R compound limits sizing for sure esp. for 19/20. Maybe a good, well rounded street car set up and a less aesthetic track/drag set up might be your only choice. Also if you don't mind a tiny stretch in rear you can run bigger sizes in the rear without it being so tall.
Originally Posted by mthis
i need my R compound tires and 19/20 is veryy hard to find and very expensive. maybe i get another 2x19x11.5 and seenhow it fits before i get a final set up to keep.
That's insane! Your saying no one in your area can match your factory pearl paint? You can use PPG (approved by MB) they have the factory color codes and you can mix to match. I wonder what people running Revozports F1 bumpers do, I doubt they repaint the entire front end of the car... hood, fenders and all.
Anyways I'll remove you off the interest list. If anything changes before the order, let me know.
Originally Posted by leungsta
So I finally got a response back from a buddy of mine. He said in order for him to get an exact paint match, he'll have to paint the entire both sides of the car to blend in the color.
The cost is way more than I intended it to be. I'm out unfortunately.
While this looks absolutely amazing, I'd be terrified of having someone cut my fenders. Can anyone take some close up pictures of the seam between the body and fenders?
I'm curious to see if there's a gap at all anywhere.
This will work for all W204's. (EDIT) Since you already have a Facelifted rear bumper there is no modification to fit the rear bumper but you need to modify the sideskirt card since these are made for C63's.
This is only a rear wide body kit. The price is $2100 plus 3% PP fee landed to my warehouse and inbound shipping to your location via Commercial UPS pricing.
Originally Posted by slowc
Confused a bit would this work with a 2010 c300 with the c63 facelift rear bumper? So it's 2100 just for the rear wide body kit?
It's now November 2015 and I just wanted to know if I can still place an order. I have a 2011 C63 W204 with the performance package, have replaced the coilovers with KW Variant 3s and have put on aftermarket wheels and tires. However, the biggest tires that fit on the rear are only 275/30-19. I plan on having a tune and purchasing headers in the spring so getting more rubber on the road is a must. As you can imagine, something like this almost sounds too good to be true.
However, I live in Canada and am concerned that if the fenders are made of fiberglass, they will crack when the weather gets super cold. Has anyone had any experience with these fenders over a winter?
If there isn't a problem and no one has had rusting issues after the fenders have been installed, please count me in if there's still room.
Any comments by people who have tried this solution to what should have been a very obvious problem for MB,would be very much welcomed.
11-17-2015, 05:00 PM
