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While on the track yesterday I had a brake fluid when the fluid boiled. resulting in over blowing a turn. car was slowed to 20 before hitting the tire wall, damage wasn't to bad but the biggest pain seems to be finding. the supports under the bumper. I've tried looking up the part numbers and they are no where to be found.
the bumper has a skeletal parts that support under the bumper cover. Are these parts only able to purchase from the dealer with the bumper cover? they don't show in the part blow out.
i can only seemed to find these when i look up a 2014.
no look at the diagram I posted . look at part number 8. that part is inside of the c63 bumper. I went by benz to day and they said that part is blacked out as it comes with the bumper from them and can't be bought seperately. So looks like I will have to bite the bullet on buying it for 1500. if I don't find one local.
Properstyle - Apologies if you already recognized this, but . . . Note that the diagram you posted is for a FL model which has a different bumper from your 2010 model. The diagram that Mort posted is correct for yours.
2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
You can order the bumper cover online from the site I linked to above from $867 - $1190 depending on the options on your car. Shipping may be high though.
Black Series body kit? Just a thought it you have to do the work anyway.
Did you get any warning before the brakes failed? Where they spongey then nothing? or just Nothing?
on the stock fluid there was plenty of warning. on my next session I bled out as much stock fluid as possible and switched to Castrol dot 4 race fluid. I got 9 laps in before this happen in 100 degree weather. c63 out side of that handled it like a champ oil temp was 266 nearly the whole time water temp stated at 201. the damage was no where near bad enough for a wide body lol... only messed up the head light hood and fender and cracked the bumper. no air bag deployment or anything. actually so far able to be fixed under 4k. depending on what I get charged for paint.
SRF is quit a bit different and 8million times more cheese.
noted lol... yeah it was turn 5 on homestead speed way. I was at about 95 when I hit the brakes and the pedal went flat. Down shifted as fast as I could and tried to way as long as possible before turning to go with curve of the wall. thankfully no fluid leaks.
AMG GTBS, AMG GTR Pro, AMG GT, C63 AMG, Porsche Panamera 4S, RX-7 FC Turbo II
I've had good success with Motul 600. It has a similar dry boiling point to SRF and is a little cheaper. SRF may be a better value over time with a higher wet boiling point. I'm changing brake fluid once a year at this point.
Properstyle - glad you're OK and that the car only suffered minimal damage. Hope you're able to fix it relatively cheaply and get back on track, figuratively and literally speaking.
Re brake fluid - Castrol SRF is universally acknowledged to be the best there is in terms of BP degradation as it ages and absorbs moisture (the dry boiling point is >320C, the same as Motul RBF 660), but the fact that you boiled fresh Castrol Performance fluid with a dry BP of >260C (had to look this up) suggests that the brakes got extremely hot, or more likely that you didn't completely flush the old fluid and that the calipers were filled with the last dregs of the old fluid that had previously been sitting in the overfill reservoir and/or ABS pump where most of the moisture gets absorbed so it was very compromised to begin with (different brake fluids don't mix well due to viscosity differences).
Seeing as the SRF is stupidly expensive, I would opt for either OE MB fluid which is very decent or alternatively Motul RBF 660, changed after every two or three track events with a bleed after every track event (bleed ~150 mL out of each front and ~100 mL rear calipers while topping off with a single fresh 500 mL bottle of whatever fluid you are using). Even if you don't track the car, you can flush the entire brake system with OE fluid or RBF four times for the price of a single SRF flush, and you will definitely get better performance from the fresh cheaper fluid than even three-month old SRF. Just food for thought.
SRF works great for these cars with no adverse affect on ABS operation FYI
SRF is quite a bit thicker. It's for sure slightly compromised trying to pump thicker fluid quickly through the micro valves in the ABS module.
Would you be able to detect it? Maybe not
I don't track my car, well, only had it out the one time. I went with Motul DOT 5.1 that seemed to do well on a brake abusive track. It's slightly better than the OEM fluid and specifically designed for ABS.
Dry boiling point 272 °C / 522 °F VS ~265°C (>509°F)
Wet boiling point 185 °C / 365 °F VS ~170°C (>338°F)
2008 CLK63 Black Series 2012 C63 Black Series 2014 SLS Black Series
Damn, tough break. There are a couple of guys on here with threads that are parting out entire C63's. Use the search tool to find those threads, they may have what you are looking for and a huge discount over buying new from the stealership. Good luck!
Damn, tough break. There are a couple of guys on here with threads that are parting out entire C63's. Use the search tool to find those threads, they may have what you are looking for and a huge discount over buying new from the stealership. Good luck!
I was going to say the same thing . It would save a ton of money
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