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If anyone needs pm me. Twenty for one, only two available. Repairing with a sleeve woulda worked but it just didn't feel right so I bought a used sprinter manifold (80$).
Has anyone managed to find out if this is available separate from the Manifold, or even which model sprinter that these have come from. MB are currently saying that the only way I can get a replacement would be to buy a whole new manifold at an extortionate cost!
Has anyone managed to find out if this is available separate from the Manifold, or even which model sprinter that these have come from. MB are currently saying that the only way I can get a replacement would be to buy a whole new manifold at an extortionate cost!
Not that I know of. Can't even find something similar on ebay. I know a bunch of us have JB Welded these back together (I drilled out the center and add a metal sleeve in mine).
It would be good to update this DIY to show that vacuum line being removed on the other end. Its far more accessible and doesn't involve a fitting which has proven to be very brittle and prone to breaking.
I am now getting P2189, P0174, P2187, and P0171 codes with the check engine light on. I recently changed the air filters, so at first I thought I didn't install them properly, or something. So I checked that and all was good -- the code is still there. Then I removed the MAF sensors and sprayed them off with the cleaner, cleared the codes, and 3 days later, the check engine is back on.
Now, how could I know what is the cause? From what I found on this forum, looks like it could be PCV valve or the intake gaskets. Is there a way to know before I tear the intake apart?
I am now getting P2189, P0174, P2187, and P0171 codes with the check engine light on. I recently changed the air filters, so at first I thought I didn't install them properly, or something. So I checked that and all was good -- the code is still there. Then I removed the MAF sensors and sprayed them off with the cleaner, cleared the codes, and 3 days later, the check engine is back on.
Now, how could I know what is the cause? From what I found on this forum, looks like it could be PCV valve or the intake gaskets. Is there a way to know before I tear the intake apart?
These are all lean condition codes and could be either unmetered air (post MAF) getting in, or lack of fuel pressure. Since it is setting off both banks, its is unlikely to be an IM gasket, but my bet is on the PCV. While you're doing the PCV, you might as well do your gaskets and IM bolts too as they do tend to leak at some point. However, you may have a weakening fuel pump or dirty fuel filter causing the lean condition, but I think this is less likely.
Both of these are not difficult DIYs and parts are inexpensive. IM gaskets, bolts, and PCV cost me $140. Fuel pump and the new o-ring cost $340.
These are all lean condition codes and could be either unmetered air (post MAF) getting in, or lack of fuel pressure. Since it is setting off both banks, its is unlikely to be an IM gasket, but my bet is on the PCV. While you're doing the PCV, you might as well do your gaskets and IM bolts too as they do tend to leak at some point. However, you may have a weakening fuel pump or dirty fuel filter causing the lean condition, but I think this is less likely.
Both of these are not difficult DIYs and parts are inexpensive. IM gaskets, bolts, and PCV cost me $140. Fuel pump and the new o-ring cost $340.
Thanks for chiming in. I've been reading on this forum and many others suggested replacing the PCV and gaskets together since both are known for failures. Others mentioned that broken PCV causes whining/whistling, which I am not getting. My car has only 65K miles - so it is unlikely that the oil filter is dirty. And I've been running Techron fuel system cleaner -- if that works at all
So I think I should replace that PCV valve as well as intake manifold gaskets. Since the intake will be out, I'd like to open it up and clean inside. Especially after seeing this video from Tasos
I followed this thread and the YouTube video from Tasos very closely this past weekend to replace my IM gasket as I was getting lean codes on both banks. I took the intake out, opened it up. It was pretty dirty inside all covered in oil. The top part of the injectors were nasty too. I cleaned the injectors, everything inside the IM and the throttle bodies using 4 cans of carb cleaner. I also replaced the PCV valve. I put everything back together and torqued down to 7-10 Nm.
All went fine except I broke one leg of one of the plastic round thing (not sure what it is called) on the throttle body, but it was pretty firm in there even with one leg. (see picture attached.) Also I noticed that the magnesium metal piece inside the IM has some scuffs, but it is not a crack.
I cleared the lean bank codes, but now I am getting P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure circuit High Input error. Any ideas what I could have done wrong?
Is that sensor on the back of the IM or is it one of the 4 connectors in the front?
I disconnected the only sensor on the back before I lifted the IM up which I believe is an air temp sensor or something. I also disconnected the 4 sensors on the front - the IM wouldn’t lift off otherwise.
The female connectors remained on the IM and I sprayed with them on.
I located the MAP sensor. I will clean it out with some electronics cleaner. If that doesn't help, how else could I know what causes the P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure circuit High Input error? Would smoke test help at all?
Update: turns out I didn't insert the MAP sensor connector all the way and it was loose. I installed it properly, cleared the code, and so far it hasn't come back. I think my engine works smoother but a bit noisier since the IM clean up. Maybe it is just me being too concerned?
Also, my injectors were dirty on the sides, but the tip of them were clean - not like in post #36. I cleaned them up and put back. The car has 67K miles. Should I be replacing them, or do you think they last longer. I am hesitant to spend 450 USD if don't need to.
Update: turns out I didn't insert the MAP sensor connector all the way and it was loose. I installed it properly, cleared the code, and so far it hasn't come back. I think my engine works smoother but a bit noisier since the IM clean up. Maybe it is just me being too concerned?
Also, my injectors were dirty on the sides, but the tip of them were clean - not like in post #36. I cleaned them up and put back. The car has 67K miles. Should I be replacing them, or do you think they last longer. I am hesitant to spend 450 USD if don't need to.
I changed my injectors because I was at 82k miles and close enough they should be replaced (they are a maintenance item after all). To have them professionally cleaned would have been about $150 or more; and I purchased oem set for under $300 (I thought just close enough haha). If you cleaned them did you at least replace the o-rings on them all. That should have been done possibly.
I changed my injectors because I was at 82k miles and close enough they should be replaced (they are a maintenance item after all). To have them professionally cleaned would have been about $150 or more; and I purchased oem set for under $300 (I thought just close enough haha). If you cleaned them did you at least replace the o-rings on them all. That should have been done possibly.
Thanks for the info. The tips looked clean, maybe because I’ve been using Techron. I sprayed them off with a carb cleaner as the top part was dirty. I didn’t replace the o-rings, no. Is that not a good practice?
Where did you get the OEM set for that price? FCPeuro asks 50-ish per one for not OEM Bosch. I need 8
Thanks for the info. The tips looked clean, maybe because I’ve been using Techron. I sprayed them off with a carb cleaner as the top part was dirty. I didn’t replace the o-rings, no. Is that not a good practice?
Where did you get the OEM set for that price? FCPeuro asks 50-ish per one for not OEM Bosch. I need 8
Ive just read that when you clean them might as well replace the o-rings too as they are a cheap and easy fix. One reason they are terribly grimy in the first place is that the o-rings are going out. I had a few that definitely needed it.
I can look tomorrow to see where I purchased my new injectors and the final cost and let you know.
Hey I’m getting a p2187 code and am going to go ahead and change both my intake manifold gasket and the pcv valve.. Is the pcv valve in the same area as the im gasket?
Hey I’m getting a p2187 code and am going to go ahead and change both my intake manifold gasket and the pcv valve.. Is the pcv valve in the same area as the im gasket?
It is towards the back of the manifold. I recommend you watch the video from Tasos carefully, as well as read this thread very carefully. I did and it helped me. I also strongly recommend that you don’t pull the vacuum line like the original post recommends, but unplug it from the other end like someone says in answer #32. You may break it otherwise.
2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
Originally Posted by Nhaf
Hey I’m getting a p2187 code and am going to go ahead and change both my intake manifold gasket and the pcv valve.. Is the pcv valve in the same area as the im gasket?
Yes the PCV valve is at the back of the engine connecting to the back of the Intake Manifold. It is tight back there and hard to reach so replacement is much easier with the IM off of the engine, as it will be if you are replacing the gaskets.
If anyone needs pm me. Twenty for one, only two available. Repairing with a sleeve woulda worked but it just didn't feel right so I bought a used sprinter manifold (80$).
Still have one for sale panda ? I know it’s a long shot after a year thought I’d ask as I need one ..
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