Recently, I posted, right after buying my 2012 C63 on April 1st, that I had reviewed the last 3 years of C63 postings on this forum, which really gave me a head start on understanding the C63 and its pluses and negatives.

Today, after many mini-sessions, I just finished reviewing the entire remainder of the forum postings. I did it by going chronologically foreard from the very earliest posts still on the website. This allowed me to understand how C63 owner observations and conclusions changed over time as they elarned more about their cars via shared observations and occurrences.

Now, I did NOT try to literally read every posting of course, but I did scan every single thread title, and read some and sometimes all, of the postings within the threads that interested me. This process really enhanced my understanding of what I might eventually encounter while owning a C63, and also gave me some insights there were either particularly useful or interesting (beyond the typical rear tire wear and low mpg so many owners report ).

There was for example the forum's preoccupation with "Plastidip" for a while. I never did understand that one.

There was the surprisingly high incidence of cracked rims in the 3 years to 4 years ago timeframe. I never expected anything like THAT! I realize our tires are very low profile, but this is nuts.

The Keyless Go battery life was another repeating issue that struck home, because I bought my C63 on April 1st, and within just a few days, my Keyless Go FOB needed a new battery. And, just the other day, when I ran my first diagnostic to test the functionality of the Carly diagnostic tool, the only meaningful fault reported was that the Keyless Go battery was weak (again, after just a couple more weeks).

The owner's manual warning to keep it away from coins, keys, and other metal items while in a pocket was fascinating, especially since MB offered no REASON for the prohibition. Was the problem static discharge, or electrical conductivity, or the buttons on the FOB being activated by movement, or ??? And, is this why MB offers the insanely expensive ($80 MSRP or so at your local Canadian MB dealer) "Fob holster"? This one I'd really like some answers on . . .

The most interesting story that develops over the course of the years of posting history was the slow realization, via accumulated trustworthy (not "all") dyno results, by C63 owners, that while the original "451hp" M156 in the C63 had been moderately detuned by MB to ensure that the C63 did not cannibalize the sale of more costly MBs with the M156 engine, the "481hp" P31 was probably never actually detuned despite its "partially deflated" factory hp claim, and likewise the 507 and Black series. MB apaprently simply got less concerned over time with protecting the sales of more costly models, and when the twin turbo V8 was introduced, threw any remaining pretence right out the window. This is pretty similar to the Corvette versus Camaro hp history. This is modern marketing at its deceptive and profit-maximizing best.

Any way, it WAS worth it, and it was actually not a bad way to spend some time when I had nothing more important to do. I feel now like I am far less likely to ever be "surprised" by anything my C63 does.

Jim G

 

 

Is the car worth paying 35-40k? Or whatever you paid?

And how old are you?

 

Jim G

 

In your review do you recall coming across "head bolts", "leaking coolant" or "tapping noise on start up"??

 

Only a zillion times.

The interrelated "head bolts", "leaking coolant", and "oil level" are apparently all relevant to only the engine serial number range to a certain point around end of 2010 model year. Not after that. Since my 2012 is outside the range, I skimmed those very lightly.

The "tapping noise" one seems to be related to the 0w versus 5W oil viscosity change. The 5W seems to provide some protection against tapping. Plus I suspect it is more likely to occur in engines that have been "run hard and put away wet".

Also, apparently a lot of our owners don't know that you check the oil either when the car has been sitting cold for hours, OR, if it is hot, WAIT several minutes minimum before trying to check the level. In a double overhead cam engine like this, it takes a LONG time for the oil to flow back down to the crankcase after the engine is turned off.

Jim G

 

I'm not saying by any means that I have a ton of spare time or have a dull life, but there are times I will read through the forum in past posts and look at past pics just to wind down, destress and let my mind vegg out, as well as get a good laugh because the sense of humor of some of our members is fantastic....let alone the sarcasm is golden. My work is very stressful, and this site lets me escape.

In the beginning of ownership it was a lot more of reading and getting to know the car. I bought my car in 2009 and and the car had already been out for a year and speculated some tine earlier in 2007. Maybe that's why I wasn't posting a lot of newbie questions at first because so much of this car has been covered...all over the world, and I was just soaking it all in.

Now I know the contribution of other members FARRR out weighs my contributions ever, by a 10000000 fold, but I try to contribute as much as I can where I can, and appreciate others work and accomplishments. There are some members I really take my hat off too...it has made modding and enjoying the car that much more...

 

Hi,
Your issue regarding the key battery life is not as good as my experience with my C63. I last time changed the battery in november last year and didn't replace it so far (6months). And it's my daily car.

 

If you don't mind, where and how do you carry your Key FOB? And, does it have the MB (or other) "cover" or "holster"?

Are there other metallic objects normally near it where it spends the majority of its time?

Jim G

 

I carry the key in my pocket together with another set of house keys (4) and USB memory sticks (2). When driving the car, I just left all keys in my pocket.
The key cover is an aftermarket one with a metallic AMG logo on it.
So yes, we can say it spends most of the time together with other metallic objects.
I think the lifetime is more related to the battery quality itself, select a good battery brand and see how it's going on.

 

I carry my key fob in my pocket encased in a 5lb lead brick in order to fend off EM radiation, the NSA and Martians

 

Only 5lbs? Fkn busch league...

 

Jim, on the keyless go issue, I have never experienced high battery failure in the fob until this past 3 weeks since I got home. You do have to pay attention about storing the key where the signal is somewhat blocked and away from your cell but 6 months has been pretty common for me on all 4 cars I have had with the feature.
That said I got the signal to change the key battery after it hung where it usually does while I was away for over 2 months so no big deal. 2 minute fiddle.
However 3 days later it came up again. I tested the battery and it measured 3.1v right on spec.
I recalled reading somewhere on this site that the key can lose its way but I have never experinced that. However, the suggested fix was to start the car keyless, removed the battery and reinstall it, shut the car down and restart it. I did that AND pulled up very gently in the contact tabs before I put the battery back in. I have been out and about and started the car at least 12 times since and all is good. My bet? The so called lost key thing was not my issue. I suspect the tabs.
The contacts in your fob after after 5 yrs and mine after 4 just get depressed a bit and lose tension on the contact surfaces so the voltage drops through a so called "high" resistant joint and the system sees it as a low battery. It seems to work for me. Give it a try but be gentle.

 

I used to think that too but I have found in 4 cars with Keyless Go whether it is a Duracell, Energizer or the house brand of a national hardware chain they last about the same. See my post to Jim G re my most recent experience which is not typical.

 

AlexCurrie: I think you might have the real root cause correctly identified: the tabs. I'll try that.

Jim G

 

I have gotten 2 years going on my battery for my FOB. DD in the summer, and about 50-75% of the time in the winter.

No holster.

What is change?

Kept in pocket with other keys.

When not in my pocket at home it hangs on a key holder with the rest of the keys for the other cars.

 

I see your C63 is a 2015 model year, which means your "tabs" in your key FOB are at most 2-1/2 years old.

Jim G

 

Correct. Have owned my car for just over 2 years and a few months.

FWIW my wife's car 3 1/2 years old got 3 years out of the battery.

And her previous C class got 3 years out of the batteries as well. Interestingly both of the FOB batteries died within a few days for her 2010 C class.

My dealership gives out free FOB batteries, so the nice thing is just walk to the parts desk and they hand you a pair and ask that change both FOBs. No complaints

 

Interesting. My dealership charges $11 for the batteries, but changes them while you watch.

I bought one as the FOB with me provoked the dash message while I was driving, and fortunately near the dealership. I bought a second one at a drugstore for about half that.

Jim G

 

Since this seems to have morphed into a FOB thread, I'll add my 2 cents (too sense?)
3yrs now and still going strong on the same batteries in both of my FOB keys. Course my car is not keyless go which apparently eats up the battery power.
My keys get no special treatment for sure although one of them is attached to a fairly nice AMG key ring!

 

 

Blkrokt: You have a GREAT library of social commentary!

Jim G

 

Lmao he really does

 

And yet some of you guys think he is too critical!

Jim G

 

You can go **** yourself Jim