I'll go in on that!

Also the original listing is done. The same seller has these listed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Headlights-L...wAAOSwUnFZsB~n

I think same ones.

 

Alright -- I'll hit you up if I'm totally stuck and can't figure it out.

Went ahead and ordered these. Coming from Italy so it should be a while...

Question though:

1 - (brown wire) - Right wheelhouse ground point
2 - (yellow wire) - Right Low Beam
3 - (white wire) - Right High Beam
4 - (gray/white wire) - Right front standing and parking lamp
5 - (gray/red wire) - Right front standing light 2
6 - (black/green wire) - Right front turn signal lamp
7 - (black/blue wire) - *not sure*
8 - (green/blue wire) - *not sure*
9 - (brown wire) - Right wheelhouse ground point

Any one knows what the bolded wires above correspond too?

 

good choice, though I got my hands on these and they are awesome after 50 hrs of burn in.

https://www.powerbulbs.com/us/produc...en2-d1s-single

 

Have look at this thread. It looks like the black/blue and green blue are associated with "LWR" - whatever that is. Have a look at the 2009 PDF -

https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...t-diagram.html


Marco

 

I don't know if I'm dumb or not, because I cannot make out a thing from those schematics.

I'm going to try to stare at them for another 20 mins or so, but at first glance, I had no clue what I was looking at.

 

Just got to know how to read them ;-) Got used to reading those things when I stripped out most of the wiring harness out of my old race car looking to save a few pounds of weight.

You're in the SF Bay area right? when the lights come in PM me and maybe we can figure it out. I think the LWR is the leveling motor for the xenon headlights.

 

PM'ed!

 

AMG3.2

I'm super curious to see how your project works out, I have been considering this, but stuck in the same situation as you. Not knowing what is required to get these to work on xenon equipped car.

Wishing you best of luck! Please let us know how it works out.

 

Thanks. I know it's not going to be easy at all. I'm still missing the info for some of the wires as shown in the few posts above, and I just know it's gonna be harder than I think it is, but I'm weird and like the challenge.

 

there are some wires which seemingly do NOTHING when tested out, ie the LWR wiring....my assumption is that these wires are actually Canbus and not voltage circuits. Whether you have factory bixenon or factory halogen doesnt matter as far as getting the actual projector to work as there is a lo beam 12v and hi beam 12v circuit in both setups...with the factory halogen you will want to use an aftermarket ballast of course but if you have the factory bixenon you are best served by using the factory ballast as it is also the ecm that controls each sides exterior lighting functions...you CAN use an aftermarket ballast with the factory bixenon but you would want to SUPPLEMENT the factory ballast with the aftermarket unit...by that i mean that you keep the factory ballast in place to control all the other lighting functions but cut loose the lo beam 12v feed before it enters the factory ballast and feed your aftermarket ballast from there.....once you get in there it really is not that hard of a job

 

The man! Thanks, JP. I'll plug away at it when I get them in and post my progress and questions here.

 

i was wondering if you went ahead and got the other housings or were holding off for the time being....glad to see youre still at it

 

Still at it

 

Sub'd for bixenon option. Like the headlights a lot just reading how to rewire everything ha

 

Lights have landed along with Morimoto EVO X-R 2.0 Projectors. Will start to tackle the retrofit on Monday...

 

boy that box looks big. I'll be at SEMA all next week. Good luck with the retrofit. If you can take some pictures of the connectors on the aftermarket lights I'd be interested to see what they look like etc.

Marco

 

the only connector on the projectors is the 2 terminal plug for the hi beam solenoid

 

JP -- where does that plug into?

 

the lights should have come with a male pigtail with bare ends which plugs into that connector on the projector. Those wires are what operate the hi beam solenoid, meaning that all you need to do is figure out which wire is the hi beam 12v + and tap into that wire and then any of the ground wires in the headlight....and if I'm not mistaken the solenoid wires are NOT polar meaning it doesn't care which wire goes + or - so long as it sees both to trigger the shutter...fwiw, on the engine side harness outside of the headlight the hi beam 12v + you want to tap into is the heavy yellow wire, the - is either of the brown wires...just trace them inside the headlight and tap them there to tie it in

 

That all makes sense. Thanks a ton.

Question though, is the high beam the heavy yellow or heavy white wire? You mentioned heavy yellow, but per a few other posts online and the excerpt from my above posts, folks seem to say the white is the high beam.

 

If your car had the factory bixenon option then it is heavy yellow, this was the wire that actually powered the secondary h7 bulb in the reflector, there is ALSO a wire that was solely the original solenoid/shutter wire but I have found that the current on this original trigger is sometimes not strong enough to fully make the solenoid so the projector hi beam will "flash" as the solenoid starts to open but then closes when it doesn't have the current to fully make the closed position...when you use the heavy yellow(original high beam bulb) wire you don't have to worry about the inadequate current issue

 

My car does have the bi-xenon option so got it -- heavy yellow wire to the solenoid on the Morimoto projector, and the other wire tapped to the heavy ground. Thank you.

It looks like I have the wrong wiring diagrams linked about then. They look to be for non bi-xenon cars.

Anyone have the diagrams for bi-xenon cars? If not, I'll have to pull them up in WIS when I'm back in town to get started on this.

 

You will find that the bixenon wiring diagrams for PFL cars are pretty much ALL wrong on the forums.....the best way by far to figure out which wire does what is to open the headlight in the oven, then take it back out to the car and plug it back in...start firing things up like lo beam, hi beam, parking, standing, turn signal so that you can test them INSIDE the headlight and then just trace them back as the Mercedes connectors inside the headlight are all open at the bulb, meaning you can touch the wiring with a probe(preferably a PowerProbe tool) to see exactly which wire is providing which function. But keep in mind that some of the wiring runs down to the ballast(ie control module) so you will only be able to trace it back to that point as there are SOME functions that are controlled by CanBus and not an actual 12v signal

 

Oh lord -- sounds a bit complex... I can handle the wire testing, but what is a huge black hole to me is the whole canbus thing. I'll give it a go in the next coming week and report back.

 

....don't let it scare you....by and large all of the "important" stuff is good ol'12v....but I believe that some of the diagnostic stuff that is reported back to the SAMs is handled via Can....trust me, it is not rocket science and actually quite easy once you get INSIDE the headlight....it will ALL make sense then, I promise