Retrofitting Morimoto D2S 4.0 on Eagle Eyes Headlights
10-26-2017, 11:48 PM
#51
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....don't let it scare you....by and large all of the "important" stuff is good ol'12v....but I believe that some of the diagnostic stuff that is reported back to the SAMs is handled via Can....trust me, it is not rocket science and actually quite easy once you get INSIDE the headlight....it will ALL make sense then, I promise
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BLKROKT (10-27-2017)
10-27-2017, 10:04 AM
#53
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Edit: Also, what exactly did you do? Per your post above, you just had a set of regular DEPO's that you retrofitted projectors in right? If so, how is that any different from the DEPO's (I believe) you're running now from an electrical standpoint? Just trying to figure out the delta between your regular DEPO's and your retrofitted set.
Last edited by AMG3.2; 10-27-2017 at 10:11 AM.
10-27-2017, 12:05 PM
#54
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Wait -- how and why did the SAM fry?
Edit: Also, what exactly did you do? Per your post above, you just had a set of regular DEPO's that you retrofitted projectors in right? If so, how is that any different from the DEPO's (I believe) you're running now from an electrical standpoint? Just trying to figure out the delta between your regular DEPO's and your retrofitted set.
Edit: Also, what exactly did you do? Per your post above, you just had a set of regular DEPO's that you retrofitted projectors in right? If so, how is that any different from the DEPO's (I believe) you're running now from an electrical standpoint? Just trying to figure out the delta between your regular DEPO's and your retrofitted set.
Delta is that electrical just isn’t my thing, and I must have messed up the wiring somewhere. I used the DEPO shells for their halogen projector version, so it’s possible that however it’s wired up internally just isn’t compatible with my bi-xenon projectors. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
10-27-2017, 12:32 PM
#55
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That’s amazing because I’m stumped and don’t want to fry the right side as well. I’ll PM you and we can figure out an appropriate payment or barter. Really need your expertise, and I think you’ll be suitably horrified by my work! I called Lightwerkz a few weeks ago and they wouldn’t even touch them since they had already been worked on.
Beats me. All I know is that I plugged in the passenger side, turned on the switch, and heard a loud pop and the lights never turned on. Now the light that was there doesn’t work either. Since there’s no fuse for our lights, I guess that I fried the SAM on that side.
Delta is that electrical just isn’t my thing, and I must have messed up the wiring somewhere. I used the DEPO shells for their halogen projector version, so it’s possible that however it’s wired up internally just isn’t compatible with my bi-xenon projectors. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Beats me. All I know is that I plugged in the passenger side, turned on the switch, and heard a loud pop and the lights never turned on. Now the light that was there doesn’t work either. Since there’s no fuse for our lights, I guess that I fried the SAM on that side.
Delta is that electrical just isn’t my thing, and I must have messed up the wiring somewhere. I used the DEPO shells for their halogen projector version, so it’s possible that however it’s wired up internally just isn’t compatible with my bi-xenon projectors. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
sounds like a plan my Friend....but let me ask you this...in the meantime are you driving with just one functioning headlight? also, is it ALL lighting in that assembly or ONLY the projector(ie, do parking/turn signals still work)?
10-27-2017, 01:09 PM
#56
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The only thing that doesn’t work on that side is the projector - not my botched job, or my previously working modified fishcake light that was in there (just did Morimoto ballasts and bulbs previously, didn’t touch the projectors last time). The LED “C” and turn signal works. Like I said.... stumped. I would have thought that a fried SAM would take out that whole side, but since there doesn’t appear to be a fuse for the headlights, I’m not sure what else that pop was or could otherwise be going on.... Maybe I’ll check the fuses again, but I didn’t see any problems before.
Last edited by BLKROKT; 10-27-2017 at 01:12 PM.
10-27-2017, 02:14 PM
#57
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Yes, exactly. I’ve been trying not to drive at night. I’m stupid like that. Don’t drive my car regularly or rely on it day-to-day so it’s not a big deal.
The only thing that doesn’t work on that side is the projector - not my botched job, or my previously working modified fishcake light that was in there (just did Morimoto ballasts and bulbs previously, didn’t touch the projectors last time). The LED “C” and turn signal works. Like I said.... stumped. I would have thought that a fried SAM would take out that whole side, but since there doesn’t appear to be a fuse for the headlights, I’m not sure what else that pop was or could otherwise be going on.... Maybe I’ll check the fuses again, but I didn’t see any problems before.
The only thing that doesn’t work on that side is the projector - not my botched job, or my previously working modified fishcake light that was in there (just did Morimoto ballasts and bulbs previously, didn’t touch the projectors last time). The LED “C” and turn signal works. Like I said.... stumped. I would have thought that a fried SAM would take out that whole side, but since there doesn’t appear to be a fuse for the headlights, I’m not sure what else that pop was or could otherwise be going on.... Maybe I’ll check the fuses again, but I didn’t see any problems before.
So in scenario 1: You had your previously working fishcake light with Morimoto ballast and bulbs
In scenario 2: You retrofitted the projector into the same type of DEPO housing? If so, the only wiring that would touch that would be the cutoff shield solenoid right?
10-27-2017, 03:01 PM
#58
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That's strange... but I'm still trying to figure out what you did differently.
So in scenario 1: You had your previously working fishcake light with Morimoto ballast and bulbs
In scenario 2: You retrofitted the projector into the same type of DEPO housing? If so, the only wiring that would touch that would be the cutoff shield solenoid right?
So in scenario 1: You had your previously working fishcake light with Morimoto ballast and bulbs
In scenario 2: You retrofitted the projector into the same type of DEPO housing? If so, the only wiring that would touch that would be the cutoff shield solenoid right?
2. Not exactly. I mistakenly ordered the DEPO halogen version, but figured the wiring would be the same as the DEPO bi-xenon version I have now. Housings are generally the same (prob a bit more work to fit the D2S projector in this new housing, as it was halogen-specific to begin with and not already modified to fit a bi-xenon projector), but different wiring. Wiring for flash-to-pass and the LED “C” and blinker are the same, but the low and high beam wiring takes some different paths and goes through some sort of sealed junction box. Shouldn’t make a difference if you can figure out what all the wires are for, which I have, but clearly I got something wrong in there. Wires for a halogen projector with shield should be the same as the D2S. I’ve checked and rechecked and just can’t figure it out.
It’s tough to explain if you don’t see them side by side. Did that make sense?
10-27-2017, 03:27 PM
#59
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1. Yes. Fishcake takes DEPO housings, and installs either halogen projectors or HID projectors per order. My previous housing which is cracked, was ordered as an HID, so was already fitted with that projector and wired for ballast/canbus. I wasn’t happy with the output, so I upgraded to a 55W Morimoto ballast and bulbs from TRS and installed. Better but not very good.
2. Not exactly. I mistakenly ordered the DEPO halogen version, but figured the wiring would be the same as the DEPO bi-xenon version I have now. Housings are generally the same (prob a bit more work to fit the D2S projector in this new housing, as it was halogen-specific to begin with and not already modified to fit a bi-xenon projector), but different wiring. Wiring for flash-to-pass and the LED “C” and blinker are the same, but the low and high beam wiring takes some different paths and goes through some sort of sealed junction box. Shouldn’t make a difference if you can figure out what all the wires are for, which I have, but clearly I got something wrong in there. Wires for a halogen projector with shield should be the same as the D2S. I’ve checked and rechecked and just can’t figure it out.
It’s tough to explain if you don’t see them side by side. Did that make sense?
2. Not exactly. I mistakenly ordered the DEPO halogen version, but figured the wiring would be the same as the DEPO bi-xenon version I have now. Housings are generally the same (prob a bit more work to fit the D2S projector in this new housing, as it was halogen-specific to begin with and not already modified to fit a bi-xenon projector), but different wiring. Wiring for flash-to-pass and the LED “C” and blinker are the same, but the low and high beam wiring takes some different paths and goes through some sort of sealed junction box. Shouldn’t make a difference if you can figure out what all the wires are for, which I have, but clearly I got something wrong in there. Wires for a halogen projector with shield should be the same as the D2S. I’ve checked and rechecked and just can’t figure it out.
It’s tough to explain if you don’t see them side by side. Did that make sense?
10-30-2017, 11:12 PM
#60
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Jumped into this project today. It's a ton of work, but with the tremendous help of jptaylor, I've been able to get pretty far.
Pics of the progress below:
Baked the headlights at 220F for 10 mins and was able to pull the light apart.
Headlight internal with old projector. The green and grey wires shown in this picture are the turn signal wires. They correlate to the black and green (+) and the brown wire (-) on the car's factory harness.
From here, you'll see red, blue, and a grey wire. The red and blue wires correlate to the thin grey wires on the factory harness. Grey is ground. The other end of this cable plugs into the internal LED's in the headlamp.
Wired things up and tested with a 9V battery. (JP's tips and tricks)
Wired them up temporarily to make sure the LED's and blinker was working. You can see the retrofitted Morimoto projector in the image below. It was actually quite easy to retrofit after some trimming with a dremel.
Pics of the progress below:
Baked the headlights at 220F for 10 mins and was able to pull the light apart.
Headlight internal with old projector. The green and grey wires shown in this picture are the turn signal wires. They correlate to the black and green (+) and the brown wire (-) on the car's factory harness.
From here, you'll see red, blue, and a grey wire. The red and blue wires correlate to the thin grey wires on the factory harness. Grey is ground. The other end of this cable plugs into the internal LED's in the headlamp.
Wired things up and tested with a 9V battery. (JP's tips and tricks)
Wired them up temporarily to make sure the LED's and blinker was working. You can see the retrofitted Morimoto projector in the image below. It was actually quite easy to retrofit after some trimming with a dremel.
just wondering what is the type of led/smd being used for the C-Light itself. Appreciate the feedback!
02-07-2018, 04:53 PM
#63
Junior Member
Jumped into this project today. It's a ton of work, but with the tremendous help of jptaylor, I've been able to get pretty far.
Pics of the progress below:
Baked the headlights at 220F for 10 mins and was able to pull the light apart.
Headlight internal with old projector. The green and grey wires shown in this picture are the turn signal wires. They correlate to the black and green (+) and the brown wire (-) on the car's factory harness.
From here, you'll see red, blue, and a grey wire. The red and blue wires correlate to the thin grey wires on the factory harness. Grey is ground. The other end of this cable plugs into the internal LED's in the headlamp.
Wired things up and tested with a 9V battery. (JP's tips and tricks)
Wired them up temporarily to make sure the LED's and blinker was working. You can see the retrofitted Morimoto projector in the image below. It was actually quite easy to retrofit after some trimming with a dremel.
Pics of the progress below:
Baked the headlights at 220F for 10 mins and was able to pull the light apart.
Headlight internal with old projector. The green and grey wires shown in this picture are the turn signal wires. They correlate to the black and green (+) and the brown wire (-) on the car's factory harness.
From here, you'll see red, blue, and a grey wire. The red and blue wires correlate to the thin grey wires on the factory harness. Grey is ground. The other end of this cable plugs into the internal LED's in the headlamp.
Wired things up and tested with a 9V battery. (JP's tips and tricks)
Wired them up temporarily to make sure the LED's and blinker was working. You can see the retrofitted Morimoto projector in the image below. It was actually quite easy to retrofit after some trimming with a dremel.
02-07-2018, 05:11 PM
#64
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I did have some, but I wired resistors.
More pictures of the end results here: https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...d-journal.html
More pictures of the end results here: https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...d-journal.html
