tylerdurdan

Hi all

Bought a C63 a few weeks ago and absolutely enjoying ownership. Far superior car to my 997.

The other day the ESP malfunction notification and ESP off warning lights came on on my way out for lunch. They stayed on for the rest of the trip (about 20minutes). After lunch, i started the car and it stayed on but went away after about 5 minutes so i thought no big deal.

However this morning the malfunction and warning lights came back on again and haven't gone away since. The car seems to be handling normally and there is no issues with driving. Does anyone have any experience with this? What has caused it and how can I reset it? Is this an expensive fix?

m a x i m u s

Could be a dirty or fouled wheel sensor. Try spraying them off with a high pressure hose. I had the same problem (along with the "no abs" and no power steering), and it hasn't come back for a long time after washing. Of course, I have now probably jinxed myself.

Alex.currie44

Also do a reset. This is counter intuitive but with the key on turn the wheels left to full stop, then back to the right to full stop and repeat. Turn off ignition.
Strange things can happen when you do this that make no sense but I have seen this work on too many issues with too many cars to discount it.

ab0bab0i

When I had this issue, it was the wheel speed sensor also. Similar issue as maximus.

sxs191

I am having this issue now on the wife's 2010 c300. Did you change the ABS wheel speed sensor on the front and back or just the front?

Alex.currie44

Check to see if one of the has come unseated. They just pull out as I recall so pull them out, clean them and reseat them and then do a reset.

Looser

Hello Folks, a lot of good information here.
Here is my problem and hope resolution:2009 Mercedes W211 (E350) Dash Code ESP Inoperative See Owner’s Manual, Traction Control Light on in Dash display

Symptoms: out of the blue, Car would only drive about 5 miles per hour and engine was pulsing. Tried to Turn the ESP switch on or off with no luck and Had to limp the car home.
Lucky it was only about 4-5 blocks away.

The Internet Mechanic – Shade tree Mechanic saga began.

I first did research and built a list of possible problems and started with the easiest first.
My old ODB did not show any codes on this year make and model and not sure if it will due to the fact car is borderline Can Bus.

Anyway, I tried to number what I was going to do but ultimately what I did in blue.

ESP Inoperative See Owner’s Manual - You Tube

You Tube

4) ESP Inoperable FIX 430A00 brake switch replacement - No

Mercedes ESP Inoperable - See owners manual - how to fix step by step guide. You will need to get the MB V1.0 kit as shown in this link.

http://www.diagnostic-world.com/pages

The MB V1.0 kit as shown in this video is available here.

http://www.diagnostic-world.com/pages/iCarsoft_MB_V1_0_Mercedes_Sprinter_Smart_Multi_Sys tem_Diagnostic_Reset_Tool_Engine_ABS_Airbags_Oil_R eset__189133-z=563774&p=129635.cfm

5) If you changed the brake-light switch and still see ESP-INOPERABLE, next find out which and change the wheel ABS-SENSOR, they're behind the wheel on the top-ceiling of under-body and they look like a foot-long wire with 1 end bolted to body and other end plugged in.-No

6) Wheel Speed Sensor, Possibly dirty or fouled. Try air to clean. - No

7) ABS Sensor- No

1) Battery Failing or Under Voltage, Possibly Charging system. Tested good !!! both -Yes

2) TPMS - Tire Pressure Sensors, Check all tire Pressure. - Yes

Tire Pressures were off, 1 of 4 tires was over inflated causing possible problems with “Tire Speed sensor”

3) Reset System by turning steering wheel full left and Hold to 5 seconds then full right and hold 5 full seconds, Repeat steps several times and Turn off car - Yes

Start Car ESP and Traction light out, perform a test drive. no problems. Yes

It was crazy, I am not 100% convinced it's not the break peddle. I possibly cleared the problem after tapping the peddle several times intermittently during this process but the problem should surface again if that is the case.

I want to thank all from MB World the forums are great source and You Tube world.

Looser.

Cwagon

good you were able to fix your problem.
Fingers crossed that's it.

Looser

I am Still watching and considering the Battery Voltage as well, Tested good but On the edge of Under Voltage 12.6 Standing Voltage. Mercedes are freaks when it comes to Batteries.
They are Battery Killers.
and some Mercedes take between 2 to 3 Batteries.
Best to place a battery and connect to the 12VDC bus before replacing any of them. I use the OBD test Plug port and introduce the 12VDC there while swapping batteries.
I have lost all memory and had to re program components, sort of a pain.
I am looking forward to finding and fixing the problem for good and not the mistory of WTF, was it this or that or is it really fixed. time will tell.
Thank You Cwagon

Looser

Alex.currie44 "Also do a reset. This is counter intuitive but with the key on turn the wheels left to full stop, then back to the right to full stop and repeat. Turn off ignition.
Strange things can happen when you do this that make no sense but I have seen this work on too many issues with too many cars to discount it."

I believe your onto something here Sir, I cant pinpoint it to this for sure but it did coincide with two other things I was trying. 1) Under Battery Voltage and 2) Tire Pressure Monitors or TPMS tire pressure was not consistent. but after the 3) Reset all was better.
Thanks for the tip.