2013 C63 Little End Failure
If you try to rebuild, you will have an early recurring bearings problem. Because shavings will come out of some passage.
But it's not only the engine that has to be replaced. Any external oil cooling items like pipes and radiator have to go as well.
That's also why, as a buyer you have to be careful with buying used engine blocks and internals, oil radiators and turbos (for turbo cars).
Engines are sent to machine shops every day and bored, decked, milled, align honed, exc and then hot tanked and cleaned. This engine is no different than any of those. If machine work is done it can be cleaned and flushed and reassembled with the correct parts.
have you thought about camshaft adjuster failure? wrist pin failure is rare, and generally only occurs when a piston pin is not wide enough and then used for a high HP engine on boost. this is why you see turbo pistons with full sized wrist pins whereas high RPM NA engines can go with a shortened wrist pin. I would look to bring your car to a shop that has dealt with many lifter and camshaft adjuster issues. they'll be able to tell you what their thoughts are.
if in fact it was wrist pin failure, the shop would need to remove your oil pan to diagnose and/or confirm. they would the proceed to check rod to piston play.
Last edited by hachiroku; Aug 8, 2017 at 12:25 PM.
I like hachiroku's idea of it being related to the cam adjustors.... fingers crossed for the OP.
Then you only have to flush is the oil cooler.
And change the oil and filter at 100 and again at 1000 miles on any newly built engine if you're paranoid.
I guess I'm just paranoid. I've had my fair share of rod knock...and probably other peoples fair share too tbh.
The oil radiator can be partially cleaned by flushing. Then as you run it, the larger debris will come out when the radiator becomes hot and say your car hits a bump in the road. The oil is pushed into the radiator, then travels to the engine. so the larger debris will take just this path, without stopping to hang out in the pan first.
The factory replaces everything oiled in case of this type of failure, say under warranty, just because of this type of situations.
There are people that use different methods of cleaning. There are methods of cleaning suitable for say a collectible cars, for airplane engines and such, usually more expensive than your average factory oil radiator and so on...
Last edited by Vladds; Aug 9, 2017 at 07:34 AM.
Isn't it also designed that way considering all those bearings are wear items. They wear very slowly every day in a healthy motor.
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Now, when a bearing fails, these are not your normal size shavings anymore.
These are debris.
Depending on what happened with the bearing, it can be spun (really noisy, maybe or maybe not the case here). Once it's spun, the oil film where the shaft is more or less oil-borne, is gone. Direct friction between metal starts to happen with the first result being micro-welds that form and break immediately. The debris are the result of this breakage. They are much larger and harder than the normal wear shavings that gather say on a magnet in the sump, looking more or less like a paste.
Now, you would be right to think that the larger the debris, the more sure you would be that they get stopped by filtration. Problem is that being larger, they get stuck.
Also, the lubricating system is not designed to fully and completely drain into the pan, say after 30 minutes, but to retain oil indefinitely in critical locations. These are film locations usually. Obviously most of the wear is at start up and the more they can reduce the low lubrication state, the better off we are.
Lets say a chunk of wrist pin bearing breaks free. Where are you thinking it will go?
As I said earlier, every revolution each and every bearing in the system is wearing (as it's designed to do). Where do you think that "gold dust" goes?
A piece depending on how big it is can make contact between the new bearing and the new crankshaft through the oil film.
A piece can come out of the oiling ring and get dragged by the compression ring and score your cylinder.
A piece can travel to the lifters and prevent them from doing their normal rotation as they go up and down or ..... other similar places.
The mud does not contain particles that are big enough to do harm.
You really wonder what happens if you take a fistful of sand and pour it through the oil filler neck and wonder if it won't just go to the oil pan harmlessly and be filtered out?
A piece depending on how big it is can make contact between the new bearing and the new crankshaft through the oil film.
A piece can come out of the oiling ring and get dragged by the compression ring and score your cylinder.
A piece can travel to the lifters and prevent them from doing their normal rotation as they go up and down or ..... other similar places.
The mud does not contain particles that are big enough to do harm.
You really wonder what happens if you take a fistful of sand and pour it through the oil filler neck and wonder if it won't just go to the oil pan harmlessly and be filtered out?
Although all valid concerns, none of the points above are directly related to your original comment.
Pouring sand into the oil fill neck would end up inside the valve cover. That's completely different than wear material dropping into the pan from underneath the piston.
Not trying to argue, just attempting to understand your logic. Bearings wear/fail all the time and don't require the engine to be completely replaced. Bearings are a wear item, they're designed to be a consumable.




Although all valid concerns, none of the points above are directly related to your original comment.
Pouring sand into the oil fill neck would end up inside the valve cover. That's completely different than wear material dropping into the pan from underneath the piston.
Not trying to argue, just attempting to understand your logic. Bearings wear/fail all the time and don't require the engine to be completely replaced. Bearings are a wear item, they're designed to be a consumable.
EDIT: Bearing chunks end up in the bottom of the pan. Isn't that the only place they can go from there?
Last edited by Jasonoff; Aug 9, 2017 at 04:45 PM.




oil goes Sump > pickup > oil pump > cooler > filter > main bearings everything else> back to sump
The bearing is suspended in the oil that feeds the bearing as it breaks off.
The bearing is fed by a journal. Not by external oil floating around.




We are talking about the difference between 0.5mm and 50-100 microns. Both are small enough to travel through the journals.
You don't need to throw out an engine block because of a bearing failure right?




I have had 2 m113 engines die on me, one was rebuild with a short block and getting the metal shavings out of the system was nearly impossible. They where EVERYWHERE, and just as vladds says, the sump was full of aluminium mud and various areas of the engine had different sized metal debris throughout, including inside the oil pump.
The second one was thrown out, because the bores where scored from foreign material, due to the alusil bore, the only option was to put liners in it which was prohibitive.
Last edited by alexanderfoti; Aug 9, 2017 at 05:04 PM.
The M113's you're speaking off didn't have slight rod knock like the OP though right? Were those cases catastrophic failure?






