Wiggis

Ok, so the working hypothesis is that the V7 file itself is intact, but something about it is being too aggressive with the timing, causing the knock sensors to retard the timing.

I wonder if the V7 map that's being sent out is tuned for ethanol? Or some other 'option' that would normally be turned off? Accidentally left on?

Also - I saw in another Dyno thread on V7 in this forum that the AFR was rich beyond 4500 rpm compared to V6 or Stock maps. I wonder if this extra fuelling was an attempt to prevent knocking? https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...-thread-p.html

Interesting indeed... I'm holding back loading up V7 until a few more people chime in. Especially those running it without problems,

Wiggis

In the U.K., we can get 95 (regular) 98 or 99 (super) RON fuel. 95 RON equivalent to 89 Oct and 98 RON equivalent to 93 Oct.

Amr_c63

All the good news/experiences you have heard about the tune(v7) have been on the " beta" file, I don't know if anything even got changed when it was officially released to the everyone else. Maybe something was tweaked or like you said turned off or on.


Anyways this is something that im sure is not to difficult to look into once its in front of jerrys eyes .

roadkillrob

93 Shell only.

bentz69

93 Sunoco always...No problems here

And yes, v7 runs a few degrees more timing and a bit leaner then v6 and all previous versions.....thus resulting in the power increase. Its likely that the problamatic cars are knocking and the feeling of a power loss is the retard in the timing.

Download the torque app, pay 3.99 or whatever to get the pro version, get a bluetooth obd2 connector from amazon for 20$ and data log your timing advance in the graphing section. Do some WOT pulls in whatever gear you experience the flat power and lets see what happens

bentz69

a small test to see if the problem goes away is buy a bottle of octane booster from walmart or wherever and see if it still happens.

The higher octane should stop the pinging

bentz69

the link isnt working but thats my thread. And yes, my car was running a little richer in the upper rpms compared to v6 and even stock.

I was told by EC that after the car adapts to the tune the a/f will level off to where it is supposed to be.

Cant comment on the truth to that since I havent been back on the dyno since uploading the v7 tune but Ive done atleast 500 miles since then and my car still feels strong. So idk what the a/f is at this point.

Cozy

I have heard from Eurocharged and they have suggested that the reported fix is to reflash the car back to stock, then flash V7.

I'm not with the car right now, and when I did this I admittedly didn't flash right back to V7, but perhaps one of you other guys can try it.

Wiggis

I went from stock to V7 and the thing does fly. Just one problem in that on cold start, the revs hold at about 1500 and don't drop until I touch the throttle. No issues at 4000 rpm or beyond.

Amg_mike254

I have the v7 beta on 2012 c63 from eurocharged out in Georgetown tx an I'm not having any issues as of yet.. my car is running hotter temps .. other then that I'm running alot more aggressive an way more responsive with this tune. I am also running the E85 flex fuel kit.

Amr_c63

in for results let us know!

Cozy

Any of you guys tried flashing stock, then V7?

I'm back home this week so aim to try.

Amr_c63

I haven't yet , I'm just waiting for an answer from the source.

sirius9

Having upgraded from V5 to V7, I am having similar issues as described by Cozy. It is as though the revs is too high, ie car seems to revs hard with V7 but somehow the speedometer is lagging behind.
All I get is seeing the revs goes up to redline, but you don't seem to get thrust back unto the seat as it does with V5 map.


Have done the disconnect battery overnight step, and also flashing back to stock map step then V7 as advised by Jerry but no difference.
V7 seems to not suit the car well.


Currently awaiting to hear from Jerry as he investigate.

Amr_c63

well that sucks.. I guess I gotta stay patient

BLKROKT

Did you guys try removing your pistons and cleaning off the carbon deposits? Get them nice and shiny, I bet that fixes everything!

- Dave

sirius9

Will do Dave!

Jasonoff

You should probably remove your engine so you can install Weistec ARP studs...

DavesMeanE's

MasterClownRingLeader BLKROKT strikes again... cleaning the piston tops certainly wouldn't hurt though

If you have the engine apart you might as well

Not sure it would fix this issue though... What I would be interested to see what the cams are actually doing, are they adjusting? Possibly try to re-teach the cams with SDS.

REDROKT can go pound some sand along with his circus friends who are slow and don't make powwaahhhh

Thanks

Dave

Dave

Jasonoff

Dave, was it you who told a customer they had to pull their engine to install ARP studs?

DavesMeanE's

I prefer to pull the engine out of the car... I have done many, and only because I can get the entire powertrain out of the car in a little over an hour. At that time, everything is super easy to access. I work standing up, not leaning over. I can ensure absolute cleanliness, every hole gets cleaned out and Q-tipped... I can easily walk around the engine, check everything, see everything. Shoot - even maneuvering the torque wrench in the engine compartment can be a major pain in the butt... No obstructions when it's on the table... I do also clean the piston tops and combustion chambers/valves whenever I have the heads off, so that's a super easy task when the engine is out of the car. Good time to reseal the oil filter housing too, or replace anything on the belt drive. If you have done a little work yourself you know that it's pretty tight in there. With the engine out there is zero struggle, everything is easy. That is the way I recommend people do it.

A person can do anything they want, any way they want. doesn't make it the right way, or even a way that will last.

I don't get comebacks on my work, it's always done right.

I fix *A LOT* of things that DIY'ers screw up on a pretty regular bi-weekly basis.

So to answer your question. Yes, I have told many customers that they should pull the engine to do ARP studs, or factory headbolts.

I just knocked one out this weekend, snapped a couple pics

Thanks

Dave




Nice n' clean, did these for REDRKT, V7 is gonna beast it up now... I'm predicting eleventy trillion horsepowers...



New Tappets



Cammers

skratch77

Not many people want to spend an extra 1000 dollars endless you only charge an hour labor to pull the motor

hachiroku

i hope you're also replacing the o-ring for the oil cooler thermostat while your at it. i had a huge leak there, had my head studs, and oil pans resealed at the same time. had small leaks there too.

AMG3.2

Wait, you can get the entire powertrain out in what, an hour and a half? If so, I'm not joking, that's genuinely amazing.

So what do you charge to pull an M156? What's your hourly shop rate? Can't be more than $200 then right?

Jasonoff

If I could supply a skid to drop it down on and have my DT yanked for $200. I'd just drop my car off and pick it up with a trailer for that steal of a deal!