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Small oil leak, Lucas oil engine stop leak

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Old Oct 21, 2017 | 11:56 AM
  #1  
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Small oil leak, Lucas oil engine stop leak

I have a small oil leak coming from the driver side bank or left side valve cover gasket. I can visually see a drop or two every once in a while on my garage floor. I think most of the time the heat just burns it once out or dries on the leaky spot. I can see the oil spot on the block in the area of concern. when driving it does create a little white smoke that comes out from the front driver side wheel well and gives the appearance the car may be over heating.
Of course through the dealer, the cost to repair is large. I can get the parts online cheaper but this is not a job I can do myself. So looking at other possible interim solutions, I came across the Lucas oil engine stop leak. Has anyone ever tried it before? Per the product description, can be used with just about any type of oil and this car falls within the description. I understand this is a band aid and eventually do have to take care of it but before I do, was hoping on some input from the forum.
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Old Oct 21, 2017 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Conv_GSDriver
I have a small oil leak coming from the driver side bank or left side valve cover gasket. I can visually see a drop or two every once in a while on my garage floor. I think most of the time the heat just burns it once out or dries on the leaky spot. I can see the oil spot on the block in the area of concern. when driving it does create a little white smoke that comes out from the front driver side wheel well and gives the appearance the car may be over heating.
Of course through the dealer, the cost to repair is large. I can get the parts online cheaper but this is not a job I can do myself. So looking at other possible interim solutions, I came across the Lucas oil engine stop leak. Has anyone ever tried it before? Per the product description, can be used with just about any type of oil and this car falls within the description. I understand this is a band aid and eventually do have to take care of it but before I do, was hoping on some input from the forum.
I would NOT do anything like you are suggesting. In order to stop the leak, the product must obviously impair and stop the flow of oil by either thickening the viscosity of the oil itself (very undesirable), or by leaving a residue blocker agent of some sort in the leak channel, which will obviously also impair the flow of critically needed oil in small oil passageways where it is SUPPOSED to go.

You should have an honest indy examine the problem, and he might suggest a repair process that is less costly than what the dealer has proposed,and still achieves a proper repair (perhaps an EXTERNAL sealant of some sort). Do not assume that the dealer has identified the ONLY way to properly repair the problem,nor that he has identified the lowest labor method!

You either need to pay the money to do a proper repair, or tolerate the the regular oil drops, which may become worse with time. If you cannot or do not want to pay for a proper repair, and cannot tolerate the oil drops, or fear the leak may grow with time, you need to sell the car, honestly disclosing the problem to the buyer(because you are not a selfish jerk that unloads his problem onto someone else).

Jim G
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Old Oct 21, 2017 | 01:38 PM
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I wouldn’t put anything like that in our engine ever. For example, Porsche and Audi require M1 0W-40 because the size of the oil passages in the head are getting so small. I would think that AMG isn’t far behind in that, and putting something in your oil that gums up small leaks.... er, no thanks. Honestly just deal with the drip or get it fixed right.
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Old Oct 21, 2017 | 02:27 PM
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My opinion is that there are 2 ways to fix something.

1. The right way
2. The other way (ie wrong way) Pour of bottle of something into your car that makes claims to fix something cheap and easy.

Last edited by roadkillrob; Oct 21, 2017 at 06:41 PM.
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Old Oct 21, 2017 | 02:48 PM
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Do NOT put stop leak in any part of the car. It'll stop the leak, and it'll gum up everything else as well. Before you know it, your somewhat expensive valve cover leak will turn into a very expensive engine overhaul
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Old Oct 22, 2017 | 09:15 AM
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Thank you all. This is why I asked here to get honest feedback. All of you are spot on and bring up other points I didn't think about. The question now is, do I also do the passenger side even though it's not leaking to preemptively fix something that might, might not happen? Since they are already getting in there.
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Old Oct 22, 2017 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Conv_GSDriver
Thank you all. This is why I asked here to get honest feedback. All of you are spot on and bring up other points I didn't think about. The question now is, do I also do the passenger side even though it's not leaking to preemptively fix something that might, might not happen? Since they are already getting in there.
How many miles on it?

I would probably just do both, it will be a little cheaper to do both at the same time over doing one side then the other and it is likely that they are drying out from age mileage, so chances are the other one will leak sooner rather than later.
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Old Oct 22, 2017 | 10:03 AM
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Our cars are so sensitive to oil viscosity and have rattle and crazy sounds coming from the valves on cold starts from time to time.ive had my whole top end redone at the dealership and was over 7 grand in work including both cam adjusters for the noise to come back 6 months later.

I've fixed this changing oils and adding mos2 in the oil and still get it from time to time.

Now just imagine putting this crap in there that will definitely clog things up there and will almost guarantee that you will have issues down the road from it.

So glad you asked first
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Old Oct 22, 2017 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Conv_GSDriver
Thank you all. This is why I asked here to get honest feedback. All of you are spot on and bring up other points I didn't think about. The question now is, do I also do the passenger side even though it's not leaking to preemptively fix something that might, might not happen? Since they are already getting in there.
It might not happen. I'd just do the side that is currently leaking. Normally I'd say just do both but there's no actual valve cover gaskets, it's an RTV tube sealant that needs to be applied properly. So basically, if you DIY it and mess up the application, you might end up with a leak you might've not had before
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Old Oct 22, 2017 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Funkwagen
It might not happen. I'd just do the side that is currently leaking. Normally I'd say just do both but there's no actual valve cover gaskets, it's an RTV tube sealant that needs to be applied properly. So basically, if you DIY it and mess up the application, you might end up with a leak you might've not had before
I believe there is in fact a valve cover gasket. I have had my valve covers off (2012) and did not replace the gaskets. I have no leaks. There is a valve cover gasket listed in the online parts listing for both FL and PFL models. For the FL cars:

https://www.oediscountparts.com/parts/2012/Mercedes-Benz/C63%20AMG/Base?siteid=215242&vehicleid=379323&diagram=577744 2
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Old Oct 22, 2017 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by roadkillrob
How many miles on it?

I would probably just do both, it will be a little cheaper to do both at the same time over doing one side then the other and it is likely that they are drying out from age mileage, so chances are the other one will leak sooner rather than later.
The car is at 90k miles. That’s what I’m thinking, since they’re getting in there already might as well do the other side.
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Old Oct 22, 2017 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Mort
I believe there is in fact a valve cover gasket. I have had my valve covers off (2012) and did not replace the gaskets. I have no leaks. There is a valve cover gasket listed in the online parts listing for both FL and PFL models. For the FL cars:

https://www.oediscountparts.com/parts/2012/Mercedes-Benz/C63%20AMG/Base?siteid=215242&vehicleid=379323&diagram=577744 2
As Mort stated, the part numbers in question are 159-016-01-21 gasket, 159-016-00-21 spark plug journal gasket, 156-016-19-05 left side valve cover. I'm a little confused about that last one as it looks like i'm buying another valve cover? thought the current one would be reused and simply replace the gasket.
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Old Oct 22, 2017 | 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Conv_GSDriver
As Mort stated, the part numbers in question are 159-016-01-21 gasket, 159-016-00-21 spark plug journal gasket, 156-016-19-05 left side valve cover. I'm a little confused about that last one as it looks like i'm buying another valve cover? thought the current one would be reused and simply replace the gasket.
Ya that part number is wrong, you need 159-016-00-21, 159-016-01-21, 159-016-02-21, in the link Mort put up, you need 2 of #16 in the picture, if you look they list 16 twice with a left and a right part nuymber
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Old Oct 22, 2017 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by roadkillrob
Ya that part number is wrong, you need 159-016-00-21, 159-016-01-21, 159-016-02-21, in the link Mort put up, you need 2 of #16 in the picture, if you look they list 16 twice with a left and a right part nuymber
I just noticed that today looking at the ticket and the parts. Good thing I asked them for the parts listing and prices. I'm not the mot mechanically inclined dude but that seemed odd. If its just those seals then I think I will do both. their charge for the labor is of course up there. I think they said its a 3.5 hour job?
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Old Oct 22, 2017 | 06:28 PM
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AllData DIY quotes 3.4 hours to do both sides on a 2010 and left side 1.9, right side 1.8. so 3.5 sounds reasonable.
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Old Oct 22, 2017 | 08:59 PM
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I had a similar issue with my valve cover gasket leaking oil. The oil was dropping onto the exhaust and burning, generating smoke when the engine was heating up. I replaced both sides gaskets 1 month ago.
The process is not difficult if you want to do it by your own, but you will need the proper tool to fit the screws that are near the suspension towers because the free space to access there is very limited.
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Old Oct 23, 2017 | 11:41 AM
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save money...fix it correctly.

as many have stated...i also agree with their thoughts. band aid fixes should never be done on a performance engine, or any engine you plan to keep.
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Old Oct 24, 2017 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Mort
AllData DIY quotes 3.4 hours to do both sides on a 2010 and left side 1.9, right side 1.8. so 3.5 sounds reasonable.
lol they only quoted me the one side (driver) and mentioned since one side is getting done might as well do the other but I'm sure the quote was just for the affected side.
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Old Oct 24, 2017 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Conv_GSDriver
lol they only quoted me the one side (driver) and mentioned since one side is getting done might as well do the other but I'm sure the quote was just for the affected side.
Better have a little chat with them to be sure.
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Old Oct 24, 2017 | 02:20 PM
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anybody who services Mercedes would generally state the same. if it ain't broke don't fix it, which lends to be true for most cases.

owners like me tend to understand with higher mileage cars proactive maintenance is better than surprised maintenance. i had had my valve cover gaskets done only to discover 1 valve cover was previously damaged. i took this as an expensive opportunity to update both valve covers to their updated versions.
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Old Oct 25, 2017 | 10:08 AM
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So today I dropped the car off at another Merc dealer which is actually closer to me. Simply told them that I smell oil and the white smoke and pointed to the area where the leak shows. Didn't say anything about the other dealer, what they quoted or did, etc. I took the loaner and was on my way. About 20 minutes into my drive to work they called and said that the seals need to be replaced. Same seals I was quoted. No mention of replacing valve cover. I asked if the valve cover had any damage. They called me later to say no, it's fine. I think they quoted just under two hours of work, so Mort you were roughly on it per the ALLDATA search you did. I'm only getting done the affected side, decided not to replace the other one.

I have yet to receive a response from the advisor at the previous dealer. I am trying to give them an opportunity to respond. I just hope that this is not some type of common occurrence there as that area where it is located, is an affluent one where most people may not question what they are being told. Who knows. Thanks to all.
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