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One step colder plugs, thermostat mods?

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Old 11-29-2017, 11:42 PM
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One step colder plugs, thermostat mods?

Does the M156 see any benefit from one step colder spark plugs or a cooler thermostat? The only info i was able to find in a quick search was about how MHP scammed a bunch of people?

I'm trying to figure out all the little power adders and support mods I can get together for this platform before having to jump to spray or a supercharger.
Old 11-29-2017, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by G_Money
Does the M156 see any benefit from one step colder spark plugs or a cooler thermostat? The only info i was able to find in a quick search was about how MHP scammed a bunch of people?

I'm trying to figure out all the little power adders and support mods I can get together for this platform before having to jump to spray or a supercharger.
Most have found the cooler thermostat to have had little or no effect on coolant temps. And I have pulled plugs "the right way" to check them at 34k miles. What I can say is that (with headers and dyno tune) the plugs came out with a perfect coffee-with-cream color so from that I conclude for those at that 470-500 whp level of mods there is absolutely no need to run a colder plug.
Old 11-30-2017, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by bhamg
Most have found the cooler thermostat to have had little or no effect on coolant temps. And I have pulled plugs "the right way" to check them at 34k miles. What I can say is that (with headers and dyno tune) the plugs came out with a perfect coffee-with-cream color so from that I conclude for those at that 470-500 whp level of mods there is absolutely no need to run a colder plug.
Appreciate the info! Are LTH, ROW Airboxes, and a tune pretty much as far as you can take it without going forced induction? Throttle body kits seem to add about ~20HP at the cost of ~$4000, and cams seem to add a similar amount of power but closer to $8000, and underdrive pulleys don't seem to add much compared to their downsides either. From what I have read, that is. Obviously I don't have any of these items on my vehicle.
Old 11-30-2017, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by G_Money
Appreciate the info! Are LTH, ROW Airboxes, and a tune pretty much as far as you can take it without going forced induction? Throttle body kits seem to add about ~20HP at the cost of ~$4000, and cams seem to add a similar amount of power but closer to $8000, and underdrive pulleys don't seem to add much compared to their downsides either. From what I have read, that is. Obviously I don't have any of these items on my vehicle.
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Old 11-30-2017, 08:58 AM
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Colder plugs, debatable benefit unless you’re blown. I’ve got them and my car runs great.

Our engines run hot, and anything you can do to help get the temps down is good in my opinion. The 180deg thermostat is also debatable. There’s some evidence that our cars will seek to keep the operating temp at a set figure regardless of the thermostat opening temp. However it will open earlier and stay open longer mechanically, and even that little difference is good enough for me. In combination with ‘desert mode’ enabled in SDS which turns on the rad fans earlier, Waterwetter, enlarged bumper openings and improved ducting, and the radiator blockoff plate, I’ve seen a pretty decent drop in coolant temps while cruising (I was in the low 170F’s the other day, and it regularly sits below 190F) and on deceleration the temps drop very rapidly. The recovery and subsequent stability coming from a high temp situation is also vastly improved, which is great on track. When I get my phenolic intake gaskets on I suspect it will be even better.

So the thermostat by itself is probably not worth it, but in combination with supporting mods it can contribute to a big difference.
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Old 11-30-2017, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by BLKROKT
Colder plugs, debatable benefit unless you’re blown. I’ve got them and my car runs great.

Our engines run hot, and anything you can do to help get the temps down is good in my opinion. The 180deg thermostat is also debatable. There’s some evidence that our cars will seek to keep the operating temp at a set figure regardless of the thermostat opening temp. However it will open earlier and stay open longer mechanically, and even that little difference is good enough for me. In combination with ‘desert mode’ enabled in SDS which turns on the rad fans earlier, Waterwetter, enlarged bumper openings and improved ducting, and the radiator blockoff plate, I’ve seen a pretty decent drop in coolant temps while cruising (I was in the low 170F’s the other day, and it regularly sits below 190F) and on deceleration the temps drop very rapidly. The recovery and subsequent stability coming from a high temp situation is also vastly improved, which is great on track. When I get my phenolic intake gaskets on I suspect it will be even better.

So the thermostat by itself is probably not worth it, but in combination with supporting mods it can contribute to a big difference.
Can you explain how to set the car in "desert mode"? I've seen you mention it a few times before, but I've found jack squat on how to enable it... Or even what it is...

I'd really like to try this out. Coolant temps are stable between 190F - 197F while driving. Wanna see if we can lower it a bit
Old 11-30-2017, 10:02 AM
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Radiator block off plate? Dafuq?

When I'm cruising my coolant temps are between 200-215. If im really on it I've never seen them get above 225ish.
Old 11-30-2017, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by G_Money
Radiator block off plate? Dafuq?

When I'm cruising my coolant temps are between 200-215. If im really on it I've never seen them get above 225ish.
coolant or oil? If your coolant is doing that you have a serious cooling problem.water boils at 212 so you are going to pop off some hoses at that temp.
Old 11-30-2017, 02:10 PM
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don't need either of those items.
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Old 11-30-2017, 02:17 PM
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Can anyone chime in on this "desert mode" ?
Old 11-30-2017, 02:19 PM
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It’s a setting accessible via SDS that turns the rad fans on earlier. Talk to your tuner.
Old 11-30-2017, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by BLKROKT
It’s a setting accessible via SDS that turns the rad fans on earlier. Talk to your tuner.
Oh alright.. Is a tune a requirement? I don't have a tuner and don't plan on going EC or any of the others.

I guess what I'm asking is-- Is this a couple of clicks on the steering wheel type of thing or a more in depth kinda thing?
Old 11-30-2017, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by skratch77
coolant or oil? If your coolant is doing that you have a serious cooling problem.water boils at 212 so you are going to pop off some hoses at that temp.
derp, those are my oil temps. Coolant tends to run in the 195-200 range. 205 if I'm on it.
Old 11-30-2017, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Nando_514
Oh alright.. Is a tune a requirement? I don't have a tuner and don't plan on going EC or any of the others.

I guess what I'm asking is-- Is this a couple of clicks on the steering wheel type of thing or a more in depth kinda thing?
If it can be done via SDS, you could actually have this done at any dealer or indy shop with an SDS computer.
Old 11-30-2017, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by G_Money
Radiator block off plate? Dafuq?

When I'm cruising my coolant temps are between 200-215. If im really on it I've never seen them get above 225ish.
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Old 11-30-2017, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by G_Money
If it can be done via SDS, you could actually have this done at any dealer or indy shop with an SDS computer.
Thanks for the info bud! I'm gonna look into it. Thanks again (y)
Old 11-30-2017, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by skratch77
coolant or oil? If your coolant is doing that you have a serious cooling problem.water boils at 212 so you are going to pop off some hoses at that temp.
Water at sea level pressure yes, but the cooling system is pressurized and the boiling point is significantly higher than 212.
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Old 11-30-2017, 07:18 PM
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My car must be weird. Coolant is always between 197-201 when fully warm. Doesn't matter If I'm cruising on the highway or sitting in stop n go traffic. Outside air temps don't matter either. 30 degrees F or 90 degrees F it's the same.

Even the oil temps have me confused. 240-242 degrees F in city driving, C mode grandpa style AND outside temperature is 30 degrees F.

Same driving scenario but the outside temp is 60 and oil temps dont go above 221

Car is weird
Old 11-30-2017, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by bentz69
My car must be weird. Coolant is always between 197-201 when fully warm. Doesn't matter If I'm cruising on the highway or sitting in stop n go traffic. Outside air temps don't matter either. 30 degrees F or 90 degrees F it's the same.

Even the oil temps have me confused. 240-242 degrees F in city driving, C mode grandpa style AND outside temperature is 30 degrees F.

Same driving scenario but the outside temp is 60 and oil temps dont go above 221

Car is weird
Your coolant temps are perfectly fine. Cars typically run between 195 - 210. Once you start getting close to the 220s and above, is when you should start really monitoring those temps.

As for your oil temps, for regular "grandpa style" driving, I'd say that being in the 240s is a bit on the high side. It's not anything to worry, but I'd wait to see if anything more significant develops.
Old 12-02-2017, 04:37 PM
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I lost a little power with my step colder plugs.
Old 12-02-2017, 04:57 PM
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colder plugs probably not needed unless you're forced induction.

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