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High Long Term Fuel Trims with ROW Airboxes

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Old Dec 20, 2017 | 02:48 PM
  #76  
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Roadkill what are your mods to the car? Are you running headers?
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Old Dec 20, 2017 | 03:50 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by skratch77
Roadkill what are your mods to the car? Are you running headers?
Just Eurocharged, secondary cat delete and row airboxes. Removed the tune and the secondary cat delete and still had the high ltft's which is when I tried switching to stock airboxes to get ltft's back to normal.
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Old Dec 22, 2017 | 12:14 AM
  #78  
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my trims at idle fully warm. row boxes/afe filters


not sure why theres such a big difference between 1 and 2. Ill give the epoxy a try and see what happens.
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Old Dec 22, 2017 | 10:38 AM
  #79  
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Wow that's a lot.....fingers crossed for the epoxy working out for you.

On a more positive note, your AFR looks so nice and close to 14.7
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Old Dec 22, 2017 | 10:38 AM
  #80  
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Ok, finally got my ROW airboxes back in after sealing them - mine were very good form the factory, tiny gap I could see light through, sealed them very well and it makes 100% zero difference on my car.

Also notable, MAF's see exactly the same amount of air passing them on both lids, no noticeable difference to what the MAF see's going on (hovers around 5 + or - .25 - I just don't get how there can be such a difference if the MAF's see the same amount of air flow, why is the car adding so much fuel?

Here is this morning with factory lids, they were at 0.8 and 1.6 driving, went up a little at idle, but never seems to go any higher, in the 5-6% range is the highest I ever see on US lids.



Here is with ROW lids installed, immediately long term fuel trims go into the 20's and stay there
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Old Dec 22, 2017 | 10:46 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by Celicasaur
Wow that's a lot.....fingers crossed for the epoxy working out for you.

On a more positive note, your AFR looks so nice and close to 14.7
I just dont understand the deviation between sides.

Originally Posted by roadkillrob
Ok, finally got my ROW airboxes back in after sealing them - mine were very good form the factory, tiny gap I could see light through, sealed them very well and it makes 100% zero difference on my car.

Also notable, MAF's see exactly the same amount of air passing them on both lids, no noticeable difference to what the MAF see's going on (hovers around 5 + or - .25 - I just don't get how there can be such a difference if the MAF's see the same amount of air flow, why is the car adding so much fuel?

Here is this morning with factory lids, they were at 0.8 and 1.6 driving, went up a little at idle, but never seems to go any higher, in the 5-6% range is the highest I ever see on US lids.

Here is with ROW lids installed, immediately long term fuel trims go into the 20's and stay there
Interesting Rob, only question I have is are you sure the seal you made its actually fully sealing the gap? Posible to check with some flowing water to see if it leaks through?

Doesnt make sense why some are seeing drops in the trim values with the seal and your not.

BTW, with the NON row boxes, are you using the factory paper and charcoal filter? If I cant get an improvement with the epoxy then I may just stick with the NON row boxes and afe filters
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Old Dec 22, 2017 | 11:25 AM
  #82  
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Look, this does not need to be surprising.
Here is the table for the Subaru:

High Long Term Fuel Trims with ROW Airboxes-photo581.jpg

As you can see, it's called MAF scaling and it's in terms of maf voltage per air flow.
So, when one tunes the car, they start with a log. The log shows the air to fuel ratio and the load.
You also know the ltft.
So the scaling is changed, then the afr goes where it needs to go, but with a very fine scaling change, the ltft is zeroed out.
This is simplistic of course, but for more air going through for the same sensor voltage output, it's normal to see high Ltft with a higher flowing intake.
What is unexpected is that for tuned guys, the tuner did not fine tune the maf scaling for zero or close ltft. Because both tuned and untuned see the same ltft for ROW, seems like the tuner left the scaling untuned and left the ECU to work out what to do.
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Old Dec 22, 2017 | 11:37 AM
  #83  
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That's a very good point that you make ^

I deleted my EC V6 tune recently and went back to stock. However when I compare logs of my own tune-in-progress vs the EC tune, the LTFT's are actually quite similar. This may well be down to me having fairly fresh/new o2 sensors though (August), as the car immediately felt a lot nicer to drive once I'd swapped them out.

I still have a very small variance between both sides at times (2-3% on average) but I figure it's somewhat normal, seeing as each cylinder has it's own struggle in terms of equal air distribution and then also we need to consider fuel flow via the injectors.
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Old Dec 22, 2017 | 12:09 PM
  #84  
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The bias between sides is something else that bothered me for a long time.
I was hoping it's the injectors, but after new injectors the bias did not equal out and did not change sides.
Then I thought maybe there is a weak point resulting in a hairline crack in the stock exhaust manifold, which all get on the same side.
But then headers guys also have this problem.

I think an important question is :
Do we all have the bias on the same side and is the percentage of the bias comparable ?

If everyone has the same side and by the same amount, maybe it's in the construction ...
The rails are fed in parallel, but the feeding point is not in the middle of the connecting pipe.

Last edited by Vladds; Dec 22, 2017 at 12:13 PM.
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Old Dec 22, 2017 | 12:13 PM
  #85  
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My car stock with only 18k miles had a 2-4% difference from bank 1 and bank 2 and I gave up trying to fix it.

swapped all 4 o2 sensors,new spark plugs, new mafs etc.

I thought it was an exhaust leak also but after doing headers it stayed the same.
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Old Dec 22, 2017 | 12:22 PM
  #86  
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the difference between sides could easily mean that the metal has unglued itself from the airbox more so on one side.
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Old Dec 22, 2017 | 12:37 PM
  #87  
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My side 1 is his higher between 2-4.5%.
After sealing the ROW, the bias became larger, probably I sealed one side better.
Then after sealing the US boxes dropped close, looking at the graph it's tighter than before, but side 1 is still higher, so it's injecting more fuel there.
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Old Dec 22, 2017 | 12:55 PM
  #88  
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the best standalones have per cylinder fueling adjustments. even with things as perfect as you can get there still can be variation between cylinders. you'd need to flow bench each port, flow bench each injector, and test swirl for each cylinder to even tell you how much variation you have mechanically.

i'd say keep digging, but with a 2%-4.5% variation it might easily come down to something you aren't able to fix. good luck!
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Old Dec 22, 2017 | 07:47 PM
  #89  
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ok well I feel dumb...my trims are fubar NOT because of air leakage...it's because I actually did the "ROW Mod". the way the air is flowing over the sensor is entirely different now and at idle more air is flowing around the sensor than through it. Same with low speed sudden change of throttle causing dips in engine response.

look at all that lovely unmetered air bypassing the sensor body. stupidest mod ever. now I need to figure out how to remedy this mod by building a wall or something.

the only way around this is to have a completely custom tune built with low/mid throttle sections of the map adjusted for.






Last edited by hachiroku; Dec 22, 2017 at 07:53 PM.
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Old Dec 22, 2017 | 08:37 PM
  #90  
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They are well sealed, nothing getting passed them I am sure but will test with some water.

With the non ROW boxes, totally factory, charcoal inserts and MB paper filters I may just stick with them also at this point.

Originally Posted by bentz69
I just dont understand the deviation between sides.

Interesting Rob, only question I have is are you sure the seal you made its actually fully sealing the gap? Posible to check with some flowing water to see if it leaks through?

Doesnt make sense why some are seeing drops in the trim values with the seal and your not.

BTW, with the NON row boxes, are you using the factory paper and charcoal filter? If I cant get an improvement with the epoxy then I may just stick with the NON row boxes and afe filters
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Old Dec 25, 2017 | 11:05 PM
  #91  
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I can concur with Rob. My ROW is very well sealed at the inlet. US box shows mid one digit vs ROW showing 25 & 23. This does goes against closed loop theory, same MAF sensor (pulled them out and checked part number), same amount of air passing through MAF, no leaking, and US one registeres normal LTFT. I think on this thread, only one success story is from UK where ROW is stock? But even if there is diff in Europe tune vs US tune, same amount of air get registered...very strange. I am going to run US box. Although my car runs smooth with ROW, I do not like 20+ LTFT at idle.
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Old Dec 26, 2017 | 12:06 AM
  #92  
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I just got my dash command and working. I will check the LTFT Tonight but i only got on bank 2 PID. I have an euro spec C63 withstock ECU.
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Old Dec 26, 2017 | 08:59 AM
  #93  
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So i got the dash command reading, the LTFT bank 2 was 2.3 at idle, drove a bit and check again was 3.1. Unlike the STFT, is a steading number not hoovering up or down.
By the way, what timing are you guys geeting at idle.
my is hooverin up down 14-20. I thought timing would be fixed at idle?
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Old Dec 26, 2017 | 09:55 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by Rick X Joaquim
So i got the dash command reading, the LTFT bank 2 was 2.3 at idle, drove a bit and check again was 3.1. Unlike the STFT, is a steading number not hoovering up or down.
By the way, what timing are you guys geeting at idle.
my is hooverin up down 14-20. I thought timing would be fixed at idle?
Nice ^

14 to 20 at idle is good man. Nothing to worry about.
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Old Dec 26, 2017 | 06:08 PM
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The two throttle bodies, are not working per bank, right? From looking at the videos, I don't see a partition.
Do they open sync, or sequential?
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Old Dec 26, 2017 | 07:58 PM
  #96  
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Noob here. A bit confused by this thread and not sure what to make of it.

I just hop in my car and enjoy the drive. It's never occurred to me to connect an OBD tool and start looking at stuff.

So, what's the take-away here? That ROW air filter housing are basically defective and causing the car to run leaner at idle?

Is having "high long term fuel trims" a bad thing?

Why are you guys even monitoring that stuff to begin with?
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Old Dec 27, 2017 | 01:15 PM
  #97  
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anytime your long terms are not close to 0% your short term is doing lots of swing adjustments. basically your fueling map is incorrect.

as fast as our ECU's can make adjustments you have milliseconds of throttle and engine response at stake. additionally fuel maps that are VERY off can cause engine failure in boosted engines. again these may not be "fuel" map issues. there could be air leaks, etc etc. all mechanical items should be addressed before pointing to a fuel map as fuel maps are built off perfectly running engines with zero issues.
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Old Dec 27, 2017 | 01:19 PM
  #98  
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the reason why tuners can easily build tunes that encompass many hardware items for the M156 is because the engine itself has the same volumetric efficiency. with changes to "external" hardware you will have slight variations to the tune of which the HIGHLY intellegent Bosch Motronic ECU can make adjustments to. our factory computers are "smart" computers and will make fueling and timing adjustments on the fly.
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Old Dec 27, 2017 | 02:17 PM
  #99  
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Our cars are not normal ecus our long term fuel trims move like short term trims.
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Old Dec 27, 2017 | 02:45 PM
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Just for another data reference point, at idle with Carbonio air boxes my LTFT is pegged at 25% for both sides. There are no leaks and nothing to seal as they’re molded carbon throughout.
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