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Could any members here share experience on an accident damaged car after a repair. Specifically a front impact with a pole or something to that effect.
Im just keen to know if the feel of the car was alter much afterwards, or didn’t you notice anything.
A car I’m looking at is my perfect spec but had a fairly expensive from collision. Took it for a mb ppi and it had a loose bumper and fender as well as light. This is a year after the repair. That’s really all that was highlighted in the ppi. It seems an easy fix or perhaps more issues lurking. It was repaired by an authorized mb repair Centre if that means anything these days.
Could any members here share experience on an accident damaged car after a repair. Specifically a front impact with a pole or something to that effect.
Im just keen to know if the feel of the car was alter much afterwards, or didn’t you notice anything.
A car I’m looking at is my perfect spec but had a fairly expensive from collision. Took it for a mb ppi and it had a loose bumper and fender as well as light. This is a year after the repair. That’s really all that was highlighted in the ppi. It seems an easy fix or perhaps more issues lurking. It was repaired by an authorized mb repair Centre if that means anything these days.
Thanks for the feedback.
I don't have any experience with frame damage cars (I'm assuming frame damaged since it was probably wrapped around a pole), but I'm going to try my best to help. I would drive a clean title, no accident C63... maybe even test drive multiple C63's to get a feel of how they drive. Then go back and drive the one that is your perfect spec and see how it compares (ride quality, steering, any noises, etc.). In my experience with accident damage cars, they're never put together 100% correct. Even if the car was repaired by an authorized MB repair center, it does not mean it is as good as before the accident happened. The car might be missing a piece/screw which flew off during the accident, whether that be a plastic clip or a bolt holding the bumper on. Of course we're talking hypothetically, but based off of my experience accident cars have missing pieces and screws which you'll never be able to tell until you try to take the bumper off and find out that it's only being held on by one screw on one side and four on the other side. Also, I'd be worried about the mechanical and structural safety of the car. If it was a high speed impact, the mechanical and electrical components of the car would've been damaged. Broken radiator, pulleys, possible cracked motor mounts (majority of the force from the collision is transferred to the crash bar and engine bay), broken electrical connectors, exposed wires, etc. I'd also be questioning the strength of the uni body at that point. I would bring it to multiple shops to get more opinions (the more eyes the better) and possibly get an alignment to get a general gist to see if the car is straight-ish. Hope this helps, good luck.
Could any members here share experience on an accident damaged car after a repair. Specifically a front impact with a pole or something to that effect.
Im just keen to know if the feel of the car was alter much afterwards, or didn’t you notice anything.
A car I’m looking at is my perfect spec but had a fairly expensive from collision. Took it for a mb ppi and it had a loose bumper and fender as well as light. This is a year after the repair. That’s really all that was highlighted in the ppi. It seems an easy fix or perhaps more issues lurking. It was repaired by an authorized mb repair Centre if that means anything these days.
Thanks for the feedback.
Skip it. There are plenty of other C63's out there that you can get. Not worth "testing your luck" and hoping everything is fine.
Skip it. There are plenty of other C63's out there that you can get. Not worth "testing your luck" and hoping everything is fine.
I am with you on this based not on experience with my C63 but my 2003 W211 E. It was "straight" when measured by the shop but it took all sorts of special bolts and effort to get it aligned and it never felt the same on the road and always wanted to very slowly drift left which is not the best even if it was subtle.
Pass.
Thanks the advice, I decided to let it go. Sad though, love that blue colour with the sand interior. Maybe I'm crazy that way. Would be wrecked if the car didn't track straight and couldn't get out there for a proper test drive on summer tyres at -24degrees.
Onwards to search for another one.
Last edited by agentsmurf156; 01-05-2018 at 09:33 PM.
I don't have any experience with frame damage cars (I'm assuming frame damaged since it was probably wrapped around a pole), but I'm going to try my best to help. I would drive a clean title, no accident C63... maybe even test drive multiple C63's to get a feel of how they drive. Then go back and drive the one that is your perfect spec and see how it compares (ride quality, steering, any noises, etc.). In my experience with accident damage cars, they're never put together 100% correct. Even if the car was repaired by an authorized MB repair center, it does not mean it is as good as before the accident happened. The car might be missing a piece/screw which flew off during the accident, whether that be a plastic clip or a bolt holding the bumper on. Of course we're talking hypothetically, but based off of my experience accident cars have missing pieces and screws which you'll never be able to tell until you try to take the bumper off and find out that it's only being held on by one screw on one side and four on the other side. Also, I'd be worried about the mechanical and structural safety of the car. If it was a high speed impact, the mechanical and electrical components of the car would've been damaged. Broken radiator, pulleys, possible cracked motor mounts (majority of the force from the collision is transferred to the crash bar and engine bay), broken electrical connectors, exposed wires, etc. I'd also be questioning the strength of the uni body at that point. I would bring it to multiple shops to get more opinions (the more eyes the better) and possibly get an alignment to get a general gist to see if the car is straight-ish. Hope this helps, good luck.
2003 W211 sedan hammered just forward of the left front tire wiping the front end off the car. Insurance company insisted it could be fixed. When to a great shop but it did not have the correct bench for Mercedes cars as things turned out.
In additon air bags went off including roof bags which meant the rear window came out which meant a new harness for the electrics. Headlight units were $2100 CDN each. The total repair the paid for was $29000 CDN. Car looked perfect.
First clue was it was horribly difficult to align. Special offset bolts, a lot of giggery pockery and it still was not perfect. The car always thereafter had a very slight desire to drift left which I had to compensate for with pressures which messed up tire wear. Final insult was, of course diminished resale value.
Lesson learned? Never ever again agree to let an insurer decide the fate of my car. If this happens again they can give me market value and have the car.
My advice is walk away fast. You cannot tell a darn things with a look see ppi. If you want to find a shop who can put it on a proper bench and check it, on an alignment machine that meets MB specs etc. spend the time and money and can verify the car is perfect then that is your call but I would tell you walk.
There are lots options out there. You don't need to spend the money on this one. Remember, if it looks too good to be true it likely ain't.
2003 W211 sedan hammered just forward of the left front tire wiping the front end off the car. Insurance company insisted it could be fixed. When to a great shop but it did not have the correct bench for Mercedes cars as things turned out.
In additon air bags went off including roof bags which meant the rear window came out which meant a new harness for the electrics. Headlight units were $2100 CDN each. The total repair the paid for was $29000 CDN. Car looked perfect.
First clue was it was horribly difficult to align. Special offset bolts, a lot of giggery pockery and it still was not perfect. The car always thereafter had a very slight desire to drift left which I had to compensate for with pressures which messed up tire wear. Final insult was, of course diminished resale value.
Lesson learned? Never ever again agree to let an insurer decide the fate of my car. If this happens again they can give me market value and have the car.
My advice is walk away fast. You cannot tell a darn things with a look see ppi. If you want to find a shop who can put it on a proper bench and check it, on an alignment machine that meets MB specs etc. spend the time and money and can verify the car is perfect then that is your call but I would tell you walk.
There are lots options out there. You don't need to spend the money on this one. Remember, if it looks too good to be true it likely ain't.
I definitely agree except for one bit... I wouldn't walk away from the car I'd sprint! Also, good point about the MB specs, never crossed my mind while writing my wall of text haha. This is why I don't even think about looking at non-clean title cars, or accident damage cars. They'll never be as good as when they left the factory.
Do point out no wonder you cannot get a proper alignment the reality is all that the dealer or alignment shop has to work with to re-align todays models is front and rear toe ‘in’ or toe ‘out’ – directional adjustment”.
That’s right – gone are the days of full, precise front Camber, Caster and rear Camber to allow to change tire contact angles!
Its all to do with cost cutting and the ever increasing speed of vehicle assembly lines.
The only option available (and for the “front” only) is a fluted replacement bolt. One for Camber, one for Caster but they are inaccurate “one offset position” and this is a minimal 1/8” (0.3 degree)! We saw the need therefore to “fix it right the 1st. time” to reinstate from the early 90’s full precise front (and rear) single wrench adjustment.
The K-MAC unique patented design allows to adjust accurately on car under load (direct on alignment rack) and with more than 3 times adjustment range of the one position offset bolts.
Ongoing adjustment for day to day commuting – encountering high cambered roads, altered height through load carrying or lowering, fitting wide profile tires, curb knock damage and correctly resolving steering pull.
Another important feature is the 4 front and 4 rear highest wearing bushings are replaced at the same time (suspension bushings being 1st. item to fail).
Another popular kit manufactured is uprated performance bushings for the ‘6’ multi link rear arms. Significant improvement – less twitch/flex especially when applying power lane changing/overtaking.
Also additional adjustment (Pos. or Neg.) front “replacement” top strut mounts – precisely Camber and Caster adjustable (coil spring models). Track days significantly reducing understeer for more cornering and braking traction.
FRONT CAMBER AND CASTER BUSHING KIT
W204, X204, C207/A207 incl Black Series C209 #502616K $480
12-30-2017, 02:53 AM
