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I've noticed in hotter weather here in Australia when ever its above 35c (96f) I get the dreaded lifter tick. It can even be heard from within the car especially on acceleration.
It got to the point where it got so frustrating, I took it to my local indy. We tried both 0W40 or 5W40 with no real noticeable difference, especially when its that hot outside. Where I live it can get to 46 - 48c (120f). So a week later, my mechanic put 2x bottles of Liqui Moly Ceratec in the motor with fresh Liqui Moly 5W40 oil. Over night the lifter tick has basically disappeared! Ive had this stuff in the car for about ~4weeks now, and the only time I hear the lifter noise is in the morning if I haven't started the car for a few days. Even then, its only for 30secs before it just goes away.
So my question as per the subject... Is Using Liqui Moly Ceratec Safe in our cars?
I've noticed in hotter weather here in Australia when ever its above 35c (96f) I get the dreaded lifter tick. It can even be heard from within the car especially on acceleration.
It got to the point where it got so frustrating, I took it to my local indy. We tried both 0W40 or 5W40 with no real noticeable difference, especially when its that hot outside. Where I live it can get to 46 - 48c (120f). So a week later, my mechanic put 2x bottles of Liqui Moly Ceratec in the motor with fresh Liqui Moly 5W40 oil. Over night the lifter tick has basically disappeared! Ive had this stuff in the car for about ~4weeks now, and the only time I hear the lifter noise is in the morning if I haven't started the car for a few days. Even then, its only for 30secs before it just goes away.
So my question as per the subject... Is Using Liqui Moly Ceratec Safe in our cars?
Interesting, do you have any videos of your car ticking before you tried this? Mine is doing it and am going to change oil to liqui moly + ceratec this weekend to see if it helps (I've had cam covers off on one side and cams have very slight wear starting, not sure about lifters)
Interesting, do you have any videos of your car ticking before you tried this? Mine is doing it and am going to change oil to liqui moly + ceratec this weekend to see if it helps (I've had cam covers off on one side and cams have very slight wear starting, not sure about lifters)
No, I never thought to take videos. Ive always liked liqui moly products so I was very happy to move to it from the mobil 1 in the last oil change. I just wasnt sure if ceratec was ok for our cars given how precise the m156 engine is... However, if this helps you, since posting this question, i found this thread which has some good results using the same combo as me (and you too soon).
'04 E55 (Gone but not forgotten), '13 C63 P31 (RIP), another '13 C63 PP
I get a faint valve chatter-type sound when i start my car if it's been pretty cold (>40F) and sitting for a couple nights. It goes away within about 2 seconds or less. Is this normal? It also gets fairly hot here in the summer, mid-90s in July and August. I have only had the car a couple months and have not experienced it in the heat yet.
I get a faint valve chatter-type sound when i start my car if it's been pretty cold (>40F) and sitting for a couple nights. It goes away within about 2 seconds or less. Is this normal?
Definitely thinking about Liqui-Moly. Would the dealer charge me more to change my oil if i brought my own i wonder? My local dealer does flat rate oil changes on all vehicles for $100 so I take it there, and get to tool around in a 2018 loaner for a couple hours lol
Generally speaking:
A clatter for a couple of seconds = camgears
A series of consistent taps that get faint over several/many seconds = lifters
No, I never thought to take videos. Ive always liked liqui moly products so I was very happy to move to it from the mobil 1 in the last oil change. I just wasnt sure if ceratec was ok for our cars given how precise the m156 engine is... However, if this helps you, since posting this question, i found this thread which has some good results using the same combo as me (and you too soon).
Yeah I read that thread which is what made me think to try Ceratec in the first place, your thread saying the same thing makes me think there is a chance it will help.
But here is the question.... is ceratec actually just masking the issue and it won't prevent/fix anything or is it actually preventing the damage that is causing the noise from getting worse?
Yeah I read that thread which is what made me think to try Ceratec in the first place, your thread saying the same thing makes me think there is a chance it will help.
But here is the question.... is ceratec actually just masking the issue and it won't prevent/fix anything or is it actually preventing the damage that is causing the noise from getting worse?
From my limited knowledge in the subject, the short answer would be no - it would mask anything. - rather, more-so helping with lubrication!
It seems to me that the oil is just draining out from the lifters too quickly, or the car sits too long, and thus no lubrication. It can also be caused from too much sludge from bad oil, or just too long between servicing and even ware & tare. The Ceratec (again, my understanding) helps coat internal parts a bit better so there is a lot less unwanted metal contact. Thus helping the engine do its job - being an over-sized air compressor! Eventually every car will get a similar sound from the lifters or other internal parts, its just build up. This is just another form of "Preventative maintenance"
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Just as a point of reference, I dosed with Ceretec about 2yrs ago followed up by bottles of MOS2 at every oil change (every 6mos or 2 track events or 5k miles whichever comes first). I’ve been using Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 for the past 2 oil changes. Started my car the other day after sitting for 4mos. Not one tick. Sounds amazing. I love the stuff and believe in it. I have 4 or 5 samples saved up that I have to send to Blackstone with my next oil change, and those should tell the story.
Just as a point of reference, I dosed with Ceretec about 2yrs ago followed up by bottles of MOS2 at every oil change (every 6mos or 2 track events or 5k miles whichever comes first). I’ve been using Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 for the past 2 oil changes. Started my car the other day after sitting for 4mos. Not one tick. Sounds amazing. I love the stuff and believe in it. I have 4 or 5 samples saved up that I have to send to Blackstone with my next oil change, and those should tell the story.
So you used Ceretec once and now you use MOS2 instead?
Just as a point of reference, I dosed with Ceretec about 2yrs ago followed up by bottles of MOS2 at every oil change (every 6mos or 2 track events or 5k miles whichever comes first). I’ve been using Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 for the past 2 oil changes. Started my car the other day after sitting for 4mos. Not one tick. Sounds amazing. I love the stuff and believe in it. I have 4 or 5 samples saved up that I have to send to Blackstone with my next oil change, and those should tell the story.
Please share the results of the blackstone labs tests, very interested to see them. What oil were you running previous to the Rotella T6? How many miles/km have been driven within those 2 years?
I also switched over to adding Ceratec in Leichtlauf 5W-40. I haven’t started the car in a month and a half and it definitely does not have ticking. I opened up the head and found some rust to the edges of the Cam Lobes. Ceratec seems to stay on to the valvetrain from what I could tell. Leichtlauf also has little to no zinc so but it is MB approved.
I sent an inquiry to Liqui Moly regarding the amount of ZDDP between LHT 5W40 & 10W60 and got the following:
Here is the amount of ZDDP in Mobil 1 0W-40. There is not much difference between M1 & LM.
Regarding Ceratec, the engine does seem to run smoother and a bit quieter. But it could be placebo I'm waiting for Mos2 so I can give it a try.
Would you mind dumbing that down for a retard like me lol. Which one should we be using in our engines and how often/how much each oil change?
I was using MOS2 in my cars before Ceratec came along with great results so I see no need to change over now. That said if I started now I'd use Ceratec first at the recommended dosage, the MOS2 at the next oil change, then back to Ceratec the one after and so on. A UOA in the C63 showed that with the M1 Euro 0-W40 I was using (already with about 65ppm moly) adding one bottle of MOS2 yielded IIRC 153ppm total moly. I wanted to keep it at a minimum of 200ppm so I added a half bottle more and that's what I've been doing since. I run longer OCI's than most and add the left over half bottle at around 4-5k miles with top-up oil. Starting with the the next OCI though I'm just going to dump in 2 bottles from the get go and that amount is what I recommend to anyone, keeping in mind that the oils most of us here use run between 0-70ppm of moly. For a car that sees track time definitely use two bottles.
I’d like to chime in here... sorry to revive an old thread. But if your M156 has developed any ticking and clatter, it’s time to open the valve covers and inspect the intake cam lobes and the lifters. Our engines are notorious for chewing up intake cams and the lifters are a known weak point as well. The lifters have been updated to M159 lifters when you buy them from someone like FCP Euro or the dealership. I replaced all my lifters (and did the head bolts at the same time) and the right side intake camshaft. The rear-most intake lifter on the right side was literally concave and the corresponding lobe was flat-spotted.
I now get ZERO lifter tick on cold starts and even after extended periods of not running. Longest it has sat was over a month and it fired up with no ticking.
I now have ceratec and MOS2 in it along with liquimoly 5-40.
I’d like to chime in here... sorry to revive an old thread. But if your M156 has developed any ticking and clatter, it’s time to open the valve covers and inspect the intake cam lobes and the lifters. Our engines are notorious for chewing up intake cams and the lifters are a known weak point as well. The lifters have been updated to M159 lifters when you buy them from someone like FCP Euro or the dealership. I replaced all my lifters (and did the head bolts at the same time) and the right side intake camshaft. The rear-most intake lifter on the right side was literally concave and the corresponding lobe was flat-spotted.
I now get ZERO lifter tick on cold starts and even after extended periods of not running. Longest it has sat was over a month and it fired up with no ticking.
I now have ceratec and MOS2 in it along with liquimoly 5-40.
Reviving rather than restarting.
I am at the end of my prepaid services at the dealer, so looking at a better oil solution.
Are you running Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech Engine Oil (5w-40) or Molygen New Generation Engine Oil (5w-40) with Ceratec / MOS2?
It sounds like the Leichtlauf is sufficient without the additives, or is this the base oil and then some are adding additives?
Also, are people changing the oil themselves or are you having the additives applied at the shop? Honestly, I do not change my own oil.
I am at the end of my prepaid services at the dealer, so looking at a better oil solution.
Are you running Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech Engine Oil (5w-40) or Molygen New Generation Engine Oil (5w-40) with Ceratec / MOS2?
It sounds like the Leichtlauf is sufficient without the additives, or is this the base oil and then some are adding additives?
Also, are people changing the oil themselves or are you having the additives applied at the shop? Honestly, I do not change my own oil.
I would stick with the Leichtlauf as it's on the 229.5/229.3 list whereas the new Molygen stuff hasn't made it onto the list (even though it specifies that it's 229.5 compatible on the bottle). Oil changes aren't as easy as on regular W204 since you need to also drain the oil cooler up front. The oil cooler and lines will have about a 500ml capacity out of the 8.5L fill spec. I found the vacuum out the dipstick method did NOT work with the M156, it'll only collect about 6L
02-14-2018, 04:52 PM
I'm waiting for Mos2 so I can give it a try.
