[Solved] Lifter noise!! M156
Hey guys,

I have been searching the forums for months now trying to find a solution to the lifter/cam noise on my M156 (ML63 MY2007, Euro spec)

** Nov 2013 - Basically, it started with the usual tick tick tick that's so annoying

** Dec 2013 - I have taken it to my tech at the indy shop i deal with and they opened the valve cover, one cam lobes is notched and the corresponding lifter isn't in a great shape

--- Now we started the parts journey!! ---
all new head bolts, all gaskets, valve seals, all new part number lifter from the M159 and the new updated both cam shafts (intake) and new chain and chain-guide


** Feb 2014 -- all parts have arrived. head is cleaned and sanded/polished. all parts are in... and tech started the timing adjustment.

fired up the engine, after warm up, the freaking lifter noise is there!!!! after $$$ and time it is there!! I hated it! SOOO MUCH!

** March 2014 -- the engine was filled with Mobil 1 0w40, and the tech told me to try something else!
I switched to Liqui-Moly 5w40, with Lifter noise additive added.... didnt do a thing... the lifter comes and goes!
the tech told me to just live with it... he said it won't damage the engine or parts.

** April 2014 -- really hating the noise! and the comments from some friends !!! I tried Caltex 10w50 oil ... the noise was worse! drove 200km on it and changed it.


Now... the fun part!! and remediation started, this is what I did:

1. Use two cans of Engine flush+ (http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/p...d/en_2657.html) and drove the car for 1 hour
2. Switched to 5w40 (http://www.liqui-moly.com/liquimoly/...d/en_3863.html)
3. New oil filter of course
4. Midway filling the engine with oil, I have added two cans of Cera Tec (http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/p...d/en_3721.html)

5. Fired the car... one minute and ALL NOISES ARE GONE!
drove it in disbelieving for two hours... NO NOISE
next morning I fired it up... SO QUITE! NO NOISE! and sounded like it did warm up!



I AM SO HAPPY! knock on wood that it continues!!


note: I am not affiliated with any company.

 

Sounds promising. Your links don't work though.

 

links fixed.

 

Liqui Molly
Liqui Molly
Liqui Molly
Liqui Molly
Liqui Molly
Liqui Molly
Liqui Molly





































Liqui Molly

 

I'm not surprised re. the Cera Tec. I use L-M MOS2. Non-believers should check out that lengthy thread on BITOG.

 

Have a question, you drove the car for an hour with an engine flush in it?
I don't know is that good?

I did an engine flush once at 50K

Here's my procedure
Bought 2 quarts of engine flush

Drained 2 quarts
Filled the car with the engine flush
Let her run idle for about 15-20 mins
Drained filter swap
Filled the car with 40w ( regular Mobil )
Drove an hour
Drained again filter swap
Put Mobil 1

And it's been good.

I just had a lab check my oil
And so far the car is good.

Can't complain
Only thing this car has asked for has been
Spark plugs
Air filters
Tranny flush at 50k
Diff flush at 50k
Collant flush at 75k ( OEM fluid and distilled water )
1 passenger side motor Mount at 78K
And a brake fluid flush every 2yrs
That's it
I have 80K now my car runs great.

 

I didn't drain any oil, I just added two cans of the Engine Flush+

but I guess the key product here is the Cera Tec

 

Forgive me - what is BITOG?

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

 

Ah. Thank you. Is Bob THE oil guy? Reputable? or is his information debateable?

 

By far the best source of that kind of info out there but best taken in small doses...very geeky in general.

 

+1 on the CERATEC and flush treatment on a high mileage merc (although mine is an e55, didn't have a tick)

 

 

Seeing as we're now reading this old thread...

For cam gears that have a fair few miles on them like mine (92k) and they're not able to advance to their fullest (inconsistent by around 2 degree's of rotation) - would there be a reasonable chance of a product like this 'cleaning up' any ancient debris/gunk from inside the units...or is this where somebody asks me to try and take one for the team?

 

I would not do this.
Back in the 90s I did flush and did Liqui Moly.
Was an avid reader of Autobild.
They had the whole thing with doing the Liqui treatment then draining the oil and running with no oil (infomercial) and so on.
So I did this to my car (air cooled boxer at that time, a few odd cam knocks here and there) became instantly quiet, then a week or so further even more quiet.
But then started to smoke, especially cold start smoke. I thought it was coincidental or my fault for not doing valve seals too.
Then saw that others with treatments had the oil smoke too, then the engine became noisy again.
These days manufacturers even tell you not to do additives in their manual.

As far as flushes: yeh did that too, back in the day. I think it's far worse to have a duration of time when the engine runs with reduced lubrication properties (while you run the detergent or flush substance), than having gunk in the internals.
To me running reduced lubrication could mean really really accelerated wear for the duration of the flush.
It's an opinion though, I don't have metrics to support it.
Back in the early 90s we were doing couple quarts of oil mixed with couple quarts of diesel, run it idle for a few minutes.

To me there's a different answer to this and it has to do with the oil.
But I don't want to have another oil thread/controversy.
Any of you following Tassos Moscatos, did you see his comments about cam tick and oil and what oil he uses in the M156 (he is located in a hot weather area of course).

 

Yes his videos are great! He always says the wear is worse on the upper cams that don't have the oil supply and is caused by heads. I am suprised at the number of cams he has changed when cam changes in the real world on the M156 aren't heard of that much. He is in UAE where the ambient temperatures are routinely 40Degrees c+

That said, oil tech since the 90's has come a long way, and you are much more likely to have sludge stuck in various areas in the 90's than now.

 

what if you just let the engine idle though.....? zero load (well, near to zero as makes no difference) and the oil will still be circulating everywhere regardless....hmmm....I wonder if MB service centres have their own formulation of engine flush treatment My next oil change is due in March or April....I'll see if they can do something for me then.

 

Hi brother, what does he recommend? Could you plz post Tassos's comments or video?

 

He uses 10W60.and he has them coming back at 60 000 Km "it looks perfect inside".

For temperate climate, this may not be the best however.

 

 

My sedan is low mileage and did the engine flush and ceratec treatment. Ceratec is to be ran in the car for at least 6000km is what I have read. Also my process was slightly different from above:

Started the car until temperature was at 80c
I changed and drained the old oil
Added Mobil 1 0w-40
Added the engine flush to the fresh Mobil 1 0w-40 (reason is to help with ensuring the engine flush is circulated properly on immediate start up)
Ran the engine flush through according to Liquimoly's directions
Flushed the contaminated oil and got quite a bit of gunk and fine pieces of metal out (and yes I wasted brand new Mobil 1)
Used Liqui Moly 5w-40
Added Ceratec as per directions
Car has been quiet but it does get occasional initial Cam Adjuster Chatter that goes away after a few seconds when it's been sitting for quite sometime (weeks and beyond)

In my head I am thinking that if leaks form it is likely from a pre-existing leak that has been blocked by engine gunk. Perhaps the engine flush cleared that plugged up area out and now that the engine is clean it is experiencing leaks. Probably a higher risk of leaks in higher mileage engines because of this?

 

Do you just add the Ceratec when doing a oil change, and leave it in their permanently.
In other words, do you add the Ceratec at every oil change.
Or do you use the ceratec every second oil change or so.

 

 

I found XADO revitalizant syringes to do wonders for how my car runs. Used 4 of them over 1000 miles and I'm still running the oil at 2500mi now until 5k. The car feels smoother and smoother by the mile.

 

Never heard of it before but saw this. Similar claims as the Liqui Moly products. I wonder if XADO is titanium-based?
XADO EX120 For Petrol Engines

Xado Revitalizant rebuilds, repairs, and protects engine metal in all types of gasoline and natural-gas powered vehicles, including turbocharged and supercharged engines. Extreme Action 120% repairs scratches and wear caused by high heat and friction, then it forms a protective, self-regulating layer of nano metal-ceramic on treated parts to protect the engine metal from future wear. Independent tests show that Revitalizant increases engine compression, increases horsepower, reduces emissions, and improves gas mileage!

Xado EX120 helps engines run smoother and last longer plus EX120 is compatible with all types of motor oil, including full-synthetic!

No matter how well an engine is maintained, high heat and friction causes metal to become worn, scratched, and deformed over time. The destruction of the surface layer occurs in high-friction areas, where entire groups of atoms – clusters - may tear off under extreme loads. Until now there was no way to reverse this inevitable metal wear.

EX120 starts repairing scratched and worn metal as soon as it is added to the engine oil. Revitalizant acts as a catalyst for rebuilding and repairing metal in areas of excessive thermal energy. It activates the absorption process of carbon through the surface layer which results in the formation of metal carbides. Revitalizant rebuilds metal at a molecular level, atom-by-atom, reversing wear and restoring engine geometry. A new durable protective coating is formed with the help of carbides and metal particles. Because it has a self-regulating maximum thickness it does not cake. The appearance of a Revitalized surface is smooth and glassy. Its physical structure however is a metal strengthened by metal carbides and carbon. The treated surface is transformed into a diamond-like film. The result of Revitalization is an extra hard surface layer on a soft and flexible base – an almost perfect strengthening technique that guarantees an increased life.