It seems like there is hardly any info out there on how to install a remote start on facelift W204s, and even fewer that explain what to do if you have Keyless Go. I wanted to show a few points during the install to bridge the gaps of pre-facelift instructions as well as CAN junction connections for Keyless Go.

Pic of the unit. It includes everything you need, minus zip ties to tidy everything up when completed.


Perhaps the most annoying part. The clips are very tight. I used a set of plastic panel tools to start removing on the right hand side. The vents have two small clips, one on each side. You can find videos on youtube that show how to remove them. I will tell you that they make it look much easier than it is. Probably why the screen pans away to a different view during this part, LOL. You have to pry both tabs in (by prying out with 2 pick tools or similar instrument), while simultaneously pulling on the trim piece. The clips are very tight, so it feels like you are going to break it. I'm not gonna lie, I was a bit nervous about that, but work slowly and carefully and you should get it out. Then just pry the lower panel that goes below the instrument cluster forward on both sides. Pull it towards you, then take it out, taking care not to damage the dimmer knob on the left hand side which will remain in place.


You can see the dimmer knob I was talking about on the left in the picture below. Then pull the boot forward to expose the area behind the steering wheel and access the EIS harness.


The EIS plug is shown removed here. It's hard to get to with your hands, but not terrible with a 90 degree pick tool.


I passed the EIS plugs from the remote start harness up after removing the 3 torx screw on the bottom panel. Plugging the factory plug into the harness was easy, but plugging the the remote start harness back into the EIS was really tough. You have to do this by hand, and the panels, even plastic, are sharp. The little micro cuts you will get from this will sting the next time you wash your hands!


This is the CAN junction under the carpet near the passenger kick panel. Look for the clip with the brown and brown/red wire.


There is a sequence for removing this. You have to have the rest of the unit plugged in, then key to the on position (don't start it). Pull the clip out. If you got the right one, the hazards will start flashing. If not, put it back in and look for another clip with the same colored wires.


Once you find the right one and the hazards are flashing, you have to leave the key in position and connect the removed plug to the CAN harness provided with the remote start. Unfortunately, the plug did not match the cable on the iDatastart harness, but they give you a replacement plug to transfer the wires to. This is very easy to do with a pick tool. Just pay attention to the colors. Brown/red goes to pin 1 on the new plug, brown goes to pin two. The whole time, the hazards are flashing; leave it doing this as the iDatastart unit is trying to program for Keyless Go as this stage. Once you put the pins in the new connector, plug it into the CAN harness on the iDatastart. The parking lights should stop flashing and the light should change to solid red on the iDatastart unit. Then just start the car and wait for the LED to turn green, and you are DONE! put everything away neatly with zip ties. Nobody likes a rainforest of wires.


Below is where I mounted the RF receiver. I simply ran is under the weatherstripping and behind the a-pillar. I did have to program the 2 RF transmitters that came with the unit for them to work. The online manual has instructions on how to do so. Pretty straight forward.


Video of the end result with some comments from yours truly. I hope you guys find this helpful. Let me know if you have any questions. Cheers!

 

Nice job. I see they finally updated the image of the remotes (on the box).

 

 

Thanks for your original write up. I found it very helpful to get started, even if the dash disassembly was different.

 

I'll try to do that and add the video to this thread.

 

Isn't there a similar system that just uses the panic button on the factory key instead of a separate feyfob?

 

here are some videos of the system in action.

 

The panic button method (single press, hold) was the older Compustar/Firstech FT- MB204-DC module. (I actually prefer that method, sadly)

The ADS-BZ modules can use the factory key (press lock 3 times) and aftermarket remotes and drone mobile (on your Android/iPhone phone). I have all three working.

 

Like benzdude said, the factory key does still work but now uses a 3X lock procedure instead of the hazard button.

The separate keyfob was an optional item to extend the range to 3000ft. It now comes with the kit standard, but it's up to you if you want to use it. The long range will be useful for me since I park far from my office.

 

Yes, this one does.

https://www.midcityengineering.com/p...er-sksng204d3/

 

Takeover procedure with Keyless Go. Super easy:

 

I may have to get this. Tired of not being able to cool car in summer / heat car in winter with it locked.

 

Your detailed instructions have now made me want to do this to my 2012 C63 sedan! :-). I had a question about the keyless go 2 wire harness. How did you run it after connecting to the CAN plug on the passenger side to the driver side under the dash?

 

The idatastart unit is tucked under the driver side dash. The harness that goes from the unit to the passenger side footwell was simply passed over the transmission tunnel, under the dash. You may need to pull back the carpet in the area to access it better, but it's very easy.

 

Hi, thanks for the quick reply! Is there a picture of this transmission tunnel under the dash that might help me understand how the cable could be passed through? Also, did you do the drone mobile along with the remote starter, or just use the factory key fob?

Thanks again!

 

The transmission tunnel is just a phrase that describes the "hump" in the floor that separates the driver and passenger sides of the car. All you do is pass the wire behind the dash, by passing it from the driver side foot well area over to the passenger side. Once you pull back the carpet on both sides of the tunnel a little, it will be pretty obvious. Use a flashlight on the driver side to see where the light passes through onto the passenger side, then just pass the wire over to the passenger side. When done and everything is connected, bundle up the wire neatly to make sure it doesn't' get pinched anywhere, and tuck the carpet on both side of the transmission tunnel back in. Simple as that.

 

Thank you, I think I understand and it will probably make more sense to me once I start taking things apart...I will definitely give that a try and I appreciate the help. Now I need to focus on trying to not break any or all plastic trim as I remove the pieces!

 

Thanks for the tips BalanBro, I now have everything disassembled and ready for install...Just waiting for the Midcity package to show up! I went ahead with the SKSNG204D3 starter with the DR-5400 drone for android/ apple access.

 

I had to modify connectors for the long programming extension cable. I made a mistake and put pins in the wrong slots. seems the battery drained fast and for some reason, the car cranks on jumpstart but the engine doesn't run. It is the weekend and I have to wait till Monday to tow my car somewhere.
Just be careful about modifying connectors.