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Changed out the valve cover gaskets the other day and while I was in there I took some pictures of the cams. My car is a 2009 C63 with 77,000 miles. I do not hear any ticking or noise other than the occasional cam adjuster rattle. I also had a very experienced AMG mechanic listen to my car and he said the motor sounds very healthy. I did hear what I think was a stuck lifter once but the noise went away after 5 minutes of driving and has never returned. So my question is this, based off of my mileage do my cams look normal or do they show pre-mature signs of a bigger issue. It seems like all the pictures I have found with M156 cam are either completely destroyed or brand new, but nothing in between.
+1 on looking good. You are probably aware but being an 09, is a good time to see what HBs you have and research/consider options if yours have not been replaced.
I have an '09 with the exact same milage as yours. I just opened the left bank on mine a few days ago, as I have a single lifter ticking on cold starts. Nothing when it's hot.
My lobes look exactly like yours, though I found two lobes on the intake cam that had deterioation that looks like tiny small holes in the surface. You can feel it with your fingernails.
My point is.. inspect ALL your lobes. I decided to swap lifters and both cams for new ones in the left bank. Waiting for parts to arrive. Going to do the right bank soon also.
I have an '09 with the exact same milage as yours. I just opened the left bank on mine a few days ago, as I have a single lifter ticking on cold starts. Nothing when it's hot.
My lobes look exactly like yours, though I found two lobes on the intake cam that had deterioation that looks like tiny small holes in the surface. You can feel it with your fingernails.
My point is.. inspect ALL your lobes. I decided to swap lifters and both cams for new ones in the left bank. Waiting for parts to arrive. Going to do the right bank soon also.
AMGator, I think what your referring to is pitting. Do you have any pictures?
Intake Cam. Pitting on both lobes but mostly on the lobe to the right.
How severe is that damage? Could small pits like that be classified under normal wear? I had a little bit of that on one lobe but it was very minute. I think in general the idea around here is if you don't have any noise your good. But I agree preventive measures are always better.
I opened mine to replace lifters and inspect cams as I had one lifter ticking in the left bank on every cold start.
The pitting on the lobe will wear on the new lifters for sure. Pitting will only get worse.
So decided to do both cams and lifters.
9x out of 10 if you do have wear on the cams it will be on the upper cam...the lower cams on each side pretty much live in an oil bath due to pooling but the upper ones arent oiled nearly as well....i am over 220k miles on mine and the lifters look new(mirror polished), the lower cam lobes look new and the upper cams have about 25% of the lobes with some very minor pitting....even the lifters paired with the pitted lobes are still mirror polished though.
9x out of 10 if you do have wear on the cams it will be on the upper cam...the lower cams on each side pretty much live in an oil bath due to pooling but the upper ones arent oiled nearly as well....i am over 220k miles on mine and the lifters look new(mirror polished), the lower cam lobes look new and the upper cams have about 25% of the lobes with some very minor pitting....even the lifters paired with the pitted lobes are still mirror polished though.
Wow, 220k! Makes me reconsider my plan once the warranty runs out (97,000).
Wow, 220k! Makes me reconsider my plan once the warranty runs out (97,000).
when my headbolt went at 180k and i opened it up for the 1st time my lifters/lobes looked far better than the ones posted above and that was with 100k more miles on them.....these engines need the CORRECT kind of FRESH oil in them and they will run and run and run and run.....even my timing chain guides looked new at 180k(knocking like HELL on wood right now)
W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars, EQE 4Matic+ on order
^ Agree completely. Flat tappet design and cams made of (softer) nodular iron definitely warrant consideration of using oils more suitable for the application than the MB-branded stuff engineered for fuel efficiency, reducing emissions and long change intervals. Things like a higher ZDDP additive content for example are paramount in this instance, but using a suitable oil might mean that you'll have to change it twice or three times as often.
when my headbolt went at 180k and i opened it up for the 1st time my lifters/lobes looked far better than the ones posted above and that was with 100k more miles on them.....these engines need the CORRECT kind of FRESH oil in them and they will run and run and run and run.....even my timing chain guides looked new at 180k(knocking like HELL on wood right now)
Which oil / additive do you use jp? I've seen so many different opinions on various threads, but to me the 220k mile experience is more value.
Which oil / additive do you use jp? I've seen so many different opinions on various threads, but to me the 220k mile experience is more value.
Thanks
I'd like to know as well. I'm changing mine every 3k. This time around used Shell T6 5W-40. Always used M1 0W-40 in the past since I can't find the 5W locally.
This is what worries me as well on the C63. Not much because all cars have wear. But, I heard a mechanic who works on a lot of C63 on youtube say that thicker oil is the key because it just sticks better and not drip off the lobes like water with thin weight oils.
W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars, EQE 4Matic+ on order
Originally Posted by Max.H
I heard a mechanic who works on a lot of C63 on youtube say that thicker oil is the key because it just sticks better and not drip off the lobes like water with thin weight oils.
NO. Sure, when it is cold thicker oil will flow more slowly, but 99.9% of the oil will have drained away way before the engine cools down. And, thicker oil takes more time to get there when you first start the motor (which is when 90% of engine wear occurs), not to mention that it flows more slowly while the engine is running and thus provides less lubrication and cooling. In an ideal situation with all other things being equal, a 0W-40 would be preferable to a 5W-40... but for daily driving you don't want to put in anything that is thicker than a xW-40 no matter what in an M156 engine.
Hey everyone, I have a serious question. I have a ‘08 ML63 and been getting a catalytic threshold code and a camshaft code. Do you guys think it’s time for the lifters? I have 120k MILES. Are these symptoms/codes normal for a lifter problem? She runs a little bit rough but nothing abnormal? Need help guys!
How can anyone say those camshafts are in good condition? Those camshafts are destroyed. They are not good. The hardened coating is worn off the tip of the lobe and that’s what’s destroying your lifters. The pitting you see is the softer cast metal underneath. Those camshafts and the lifters need to be replaced.
I opened mine to replace lifters and inspect cams as I had one lifter ticking in the left bank on every cold start.
The pitting on the lobe will wear on the new lifters for sure. Pitting will only get worse.
So decided to do both cams and lifters.
Just opening up an old thread, what is the cost of new cams?
06-15-2018, 12:56 PM
M156 Camshaft Wear, Normal or Something Serious
