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I don't believe in cheap tyres much, but I do believe that there are some budget tyres that are heavily underrated for what they offer.
I remember getting a set of the Hankook V12s when they were just released, and they were dirt cheap at the time. It was a million times better than the Contis that my car came with.
Regarding the C63, have a look at the Toyo T1 Sport (if you get them in your country). I tried them and they were very good (not Michelin levels of course).
They do lose a lot of grip once you pass 50% tyre life though.
****ty tires on high end performance cars is definitely a pet peeve of mine. Also, when buying second hand, a clear indicator that the owner is cheap ***.
There's a logical fallacy call reductio ad absurdum - which is when you take a reasonable logic and extend it to the far extreme so that it doesn't make sense because it is no longer a part of the logic. That's your 87 octane example. Not comparable to tires.
So it seems like from performance perspective... well we'll never know if I don't push my car, so cheaper tires are ok. But from an image perspective there is a lot of judgment, which definitely is coming from people buying the car for the "right" reason. Image. Also considering this car a high end performance car is a clear indicator that the owner is an idiot. We all love our cars but seriously, this is not a "high end performance car" in the spectrum of all cars. Neither are my tires the "cheapest" in the spectrum of all tires.
My take is to have two sets of wheels, one summer one winter and spread the wear.
Also, I had. sears alignment and the car still wore the front, then did a dealer alignment and the front wear is reduced a lot.
I don't do track work (I'd like to) and drive only as fast as traffic allows and I'm happy with the wear sod far.
My Michelin's are on the second year now (were off for the winter months), if I get 4 summers out of them I'll call it good.
My blizzaks, the day I put them on (all adaptations were for the Michelin super sports), when I floored it while merging, even with the traction fully on caused mini fishtails.
Once the adaptations reset, that went away.
What surprised me with the super sports how well they do in rain.
I expected the traction and the steering.
In Germany you're obligated to have winter tires.
With two sets of wheels, hard rubber that sits for 6 months will eventually dry rot.
So having two sets with each lasting 4 years must be normal.
So the factory alignment with no track DOES allow for 4 years.
Beyond that the Delinte would dry rot anyway ....
Talk to me guys, given that our C63s chew through tires, what's wrong with wrapping the wheels just in the cheapest tires, since they got to go every 10K miles or less anyway? I'm not tracking the car, not taking it out in the rain or snow.
I suppose this depends on where you live, but if you are not tracking your car or taking it out in inclement weather, are you putting all that much annual mileage on it? To me, low mileage plus warm, dry weather only = the grippiest tire I can buy.
Why is that that my E63 has more HP and torque, than a C63, but the C63 loves to eat rear tires? I've owned both a 2010 C63 and a 2007 E63 at the same time, but never figured this out.
Example.......I put new tires on my E63, just over a year ago. Last week when I visited the dealer, they now have a new device that you drive over that reads your tires tread wear, and mine measured 6-7/32 on the rear tires.
Which gave me a green marking on their complimentary 25 point inspection. If I still owned the C63, I would have gone thru another set of rear tires by now.
^ What's the rear toe/camber specs on the E63 vs C63? I'd start looking there. The other factor is tire width, although I wouldn't think that would make that big of an impact.
I'm currently running 275/30-19 on my E63, and had 265/35-18 on my C63 when I owned it. So I decided to run harder compound rubber, that had a higher tread wear rating than Pirelli.
Only then, did I see a noticeable difference in tire wear on the C63. But you sacrifice grip for longer tire wear. So you can no longer go deep into the corners anymore, because you have less grip.
So you have to keep that in mind.
I'm currently running 275/30-19 on my E63, and had 265/35-18 on my C63 when I owned it. So I decided to run harder compound rubber, that had a higher tread wear rating than Pirelli.
Only then, did I see a noticeable difference in tire wear on the C63. But you sacrifice grip for longer tire wear. So you can no longer go deep into the corners anymore, because you have less grip.
So you have to keep that in mind.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Originally Posted by Yuille36
Why is that that my E63 has more HP and torque, than a C63, but the C63 loves to eat rear tires? I've owned both a 2010 C63 and a 2007 E63 at the same time, but never figured this out.
E63 has about 300 more pounds supported by the rear wheels alone. Go put 300# of sand bags in the trunk of a C63 and it won’t burn through tires either.
There's a logical fallacy call reductio ad absurdum - which is when you take a reasonable logic and extend it to the far extreme so that it doesn't make sense because it is no longer a part of the logic. That's your 87 octane example. Not comparable to tires.
So it seems like from performance perspective... well we'll never know if I don't push my car, so cheaper tires are ok. But from an image perspective there is a lot of judgment, which definitely is coming from people buying the car for the "right" reason. Image. Also considering this car a high end performance car is a clear indicator that the owner is an idiot. We all love our cars but seriously, this is not a "high end performance car" in the spectrum of all cars. Neither are my tires the "cheapest" in the spectrum of all tires.
It' is indeed very much comparable and actually makes perfect sense in your case. You claim to not push your car and are looking for ways to cheap out. Fill up with 87 octane and let the computer adjust... You might be able to save a couple extra bucks
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
While you’re at it, there are savings to be had by using cheap brake fluid, cheap brake pads, oil and other maintenance items as well. Just don’t ever go over half throttle or 55mph.
And the 87 octane comparison is EXACTLY on point. Same thing.
I mean, what’s the point of even having a C63. Please sell it to someone who will use it as intended and take care of it properly.
It' is indeed very much comparable and actually makes perfect sense in your case. You claim to not push your car and are looking for ways to cheap out. Fill up with 87 octane and let the computer adjust... You might be able to save a couple extra bucks
It is comparable if you don't think about it. Fuel is explicitly recommended, tire is not. By your farfetched tangents and senseless logic everything everyone has should be the absolute best even if the things are not used.
While you’re at it, there are savings to be had by using cheap brake fluid, cheap brake pads, oil and other maintenance items as well. Just don’t ever go over half throttle or 55mph.
And the 87 octane comparison is EXACTLY on point. Same thing.
I mean, what’s the point of even having a C63. Please sell it to someone who will use it as intended and take care of it properly.
C63 doesn't burn through brake fluids, brake pads, air filters, or other things. It does with tires. Cheaping out on maintenance affects the longevity of the car, not buying Michelins does not. You don't have to write anything constructive but I do ask for some intelligence in your retorts.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Originally Posted by agp423
C63 doesn't burn through brake fluids, brake pads, air filters, or other things. It does with tires. Cheaping out on maintenance affects the longevity of the car, not buying Michelins does not. I expected some intelligence in your retorts.
I give what I get around here. Good luck sliding into a tree on whatever hockey pucks you get.
Coming from experience, I've come from the Porsche 911 turbo world and used Kuhmo's before and they are great to daily in. Also, done some autocross in them and they worked fine. Tires really didn't get too heated so don't have a opinion on how they work on a big track. IMHO, the off brands like Kuhmo, Hankook, Nitto will work for 80% of us. If your the other 20% that pushes the car to the limit all the time, obviously you should go ahead and buy Michelin, Dunlops, Pirellis, etc... Now, for the cheaper brands under Kuhmo, Hankook, Nitto, etc... My foreman purchased a set of Westlake AT tires for my Silverado 2500HD and they constantly having issues staying balanced and wearing evenly. Was shocked he showed up in Westlakes as I instructed him to get BFG AT. After a few balances and alignment, the tires are fine now after 10k miles.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
I come from that world too, and you can’t compare the tires used to what’s needed on a C63 (used to run R888’s year round). Aside from the Porsche having AWD, most tires that work there aren’t weight rated high enough for use on a C63. High power heavy RWD has completely different requirements.
Quite a simple answer for this question really. Tires, and brakes will make the difference between you stopping safely, or going into a barrier or pedestrian. I run Hankook Ventus V12's, because they're the best performer for the price I can get the tires for (245/35/18 F 275/35/18 R), and even I consider these on the lower tier of any tire I would put on my car. These cars are heavy, they have a lot of power, and grip is important at any speed. I'm pretty sure you're gonna wanna mash the gas a few times, or take corners at high speeds, otherwise I don't know why you bought this car considering you mentioned you have no desire to track the car. By buying tires that are not suited to handle this cars power and performance (AKA cheap tires) you not only put yourself at risk seeing that the car's power far exceeds the maximum capabilities that the tires can take, but you put everyone and thing around you in danger as well. Look i'm not going to go as far to make the claim and say cheap tires will kill you, but I will claim that cheap tires put you at a more significant risk to accident or injury, than tires that can handle the power and performance of our cars. So............. I would rather pony up the extra 50-90$ per tire to be more safe. Plus I get to actually put the power down all the way.
Quite a simple answer for this question really. Tires, and brakes will make the difference between you stopping safely, or going into a barrier or pedestrian. I run Hankook Ventus V12's, because they're the best performer for the price I can get the tires for (245/35/18 F 275/35/18 R), and even I consider these on the lower tier of any tire I would put on my car. These cars are heavy, they have a lot of power, and grip is important at any speed. I'm pretty sure you're gonna wanna mash the gas a few times, or take corners at high speeds, otherwise I don't know why you bought this car considering you mentioned you have no desire to track the car. By buying tires that are not suited to handle this cars power and performance (AKA cheap tires) you not only put yourself at risk seeing that the car's power far exceeds the maximum capabilities that the tires can take, but you put everyone and thing around you in danger as well. Look i'm not going to go as far to make the claim and say cheap tires will kill you, but I will claim that cheap tires put you at a more significant risk to accident or injury, than tires that can handle the power and performance of our cars. So............. I would rather pony up the extra 50-90$ per tire to be more safe. Plus I get to actually put the power down all the way.
Beyond the obvious, grip and tread life, for me the big problem is tire noise. I hate noisy tires. Returned from an extended business trip to find that my wife had bought some cheap tires for her Mazda. They were the noisiest SOBs I had ever heard. Hated every time I had to ride it. Of course it only got worse with time.
E63 has about 300 more pounds supported by the rear wheels alone. Go put 300# of sand bags in the trunk of a C63 and it won’t burn through tires either.
I'm genuinely intrigued by this. Wouldn't an extra 300 lbs in the rear of the C63 accelerate tire wear because of the extra weight pushing down on the ground, resulting in more grip, friction, etc.? Or will it make the tires last longer because of the reduced chance on wheel spin? If so, couldn't one argue that your driving style is more important than the car itself? Not trying to start anything, like I said this just sparked my interest.
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