Rear caliper R&R
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 105
Likes: 3
'14 507, '05 F-150, 1992 Ducati 900SS, 2000 Ducati ST2, Trek Fuel 98
Rear caliper R&R
I have a new set of Racing Brake rotors and pads to put on my 2014 507. I started the project yesterday but didn’t get very far as before I removed the right rear caliper I wanted to make sure I could get a torque wrench on the caliper bolts when I put it back on. I simply could not find a way to get a torque wrench on either bolt that would allow me to put the required 135 ft-lbs on the bolt.
Can an anyone share how they have accomplished this feat? I tried disconnecting the top of the sway bar end link and that did not create enough room. Any ideas?
Can an anyone share how they have accomplished this feat? I tried disconnecting the top of the sway bar end link and that did not create enough room. Any ideas?
#2
Take a picture, show the position of the bolts, vs wrench.
Can you put a 1" universal joint extension with a shallow socket on it?
Can you use a very long 1" extension and reach from the other side of the car ?
You CAN use an offset closed wrench with a 1" drive hole in it and put together some very simple math and adjust the torque wrench to a smaller torque.
Can you put a 1" universal joint extension with a shallow socket on it?
Can you use a very long 1" extension and reach from the other side of the car ?
You CAN use an offset closed wrench with a 1" drive hole in it and put together some very simple math and adjust the torque wrench to a smaller torque.
#3
Also, once the bolt is out, if you see blue residue on the threads, wet torque is different than dry torque. You need to know if the procedure calls the torque out with loctite, or dry.
If it's with locktite, I would buy their product from the dealer, it's not going to be a fortune and you are guaranteed not to mess the torque.
It's impossible to be 100% sure what the Affalterbach boys spice their threadlocker up with. As such, the friction properties may be something that they figured out in their prescribed torque number.
If it's with locktite, I would buy their product from the dealer, it's not going to be a fortune and you are guaranteed not to mess the torque.
It's impossible to be 100% sure what the Affalterbach boys spice their threadlocker up with. As such, the friction properties may be something that they figured out in their prescribed torque number.
Last edited by Vladds; 12-30-2018 at 08:48 PM.
#4
You can’t fit a torque wrench if you’re coming at them from the ground/on jack stands. You’d have to be on a lift. Wrenches are too long to fit in there. I’ve had my calipers off a few times trying to do the two-piece thing. If you’ve torqued your wheels, you’ll have a pretty good feel for 135 ft lbs and yeah be sure to use new bolts with pre applied loctite or clean and reuse originals. Don’t overthink this.
some better info here when I asked same:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...ml#post7605423
some better info here when I asked same:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...ml#post7605423
Last edited by Crya; 12-30-2018 at 09:35 PM.
#6
Not sure. I think in this thread it was decided the rear caliper which mounts directly to the knuckle is 100ft lbs
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...ml#post7473192
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...ml#post7473192
#7
I’ve swapped calipers before and I remember having to use extensions to come at bolts from a distance to give me some more working space. I also had to remove a sway bar link to just move it enough out of the way to give me even more room. Take photos of the bolt in question and I’m sure you’ll get better input.
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#10
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Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 105
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'14 507, '05 F-150, 1992 Ducati 900SS, 2000 Ducati ST2, Trek Fuel 98
Rear Caliper R&R
I ended up taking it a local shop. The only way I could see getting a torque wrench in there was on a lift. I am sure others here have managed it, but in the space I had, I knew I could get it off, but mot sure I would be able to properly torque it on re-assembly.
#11
remove the fender liner