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Syncro/FCP Upper Control Arm Install-Issue-Spotting
I’d started this thread:https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...ml#post7690042
to get some p/ns to do the job. It kinda morphed into a quasi-DIY but not that well documented.
I decided to just make a new thread to make it easier to find in a search and to cover the whole Upper Control Arm process.
I ran into a clearance issue with my wheel well oil cooler on the right side after having smoothly
completed the left side the day before. I wasn’t expecting a hard line to be in the way and didn’t have whatever parts to deal with it. The issue is there’s very little clearance to get a reverse torx socket on the long bolt that attaches the arm to the chassis because of the line mounting. Once I managed to find the right combination of extensions, I got the socket on and managed to use a 21mm wrench on the nut towards the inside and removed it. But then it was clear the bolt couldn’t come out because the is in the way. This image shows where the connection is made:
Now now I need to find p/n for this fitting and I assume a new gasket or crush washer and small bolt to r&r after I go back and disconnect it in order to create the necessary clearance.
Just heads up to anyone diy-ing. Anyone familiar with the wheel well oil cooler and this fitting on the bottom? Is this the normal drain location? Any ideas how much oil I’ll lose upon disconnect?
After much searching, none of the schematics for my car show the secondary oil cooler behind the right side wheel liner. I don't know why not. I was able to find a very similar looking setup for an E63 of the same vintage. It's this oil line that's in the way. https://dz310nzuyimx0.cloudfront.net...8b8a83d3e1.png
There's a bolt and also a listed oil cooler line seal for a few bucks. I may try and verify with the parts department that this fit, then i may try again.
2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
I managed to get that bolt out on both my 2010 and my 2012 without moving that oil cooler line. It has been a while but I did it. I think if you push the bolt out until it touches the oil line you might be able to angle it enough to just squeeze it by. Once the threaded end of the bolt is free of the chassis mount you should be able to turn the control arm a few degrees to get enough clearance to get the bolt out the rest of the way.
Last edited by Mort; Feb 27, 2019 at 01:11 PM.
Reason: Spelling is my nemesis...lol
I managed to get that bolt out on both my 2010 and my 2012 without moving that oil cooler line. It has been a while but I did it. I think if you bush the bolt out until it touches the oil line you might be able to angle it enough to just squeeze it by. Once the threaded end of the bolt is free of the chassis mount you should be able to turn the control arm a few degrees to get enough clearance to get the bolt out the rest of the way.
Well ****! You know, I fiddled with it thinking surely MB left enough room to get the bolt out without disturbing the oil line. But I wasn’t able to get it clear. But with your suggestion, perhaps I wasn’t aggressive enough. I may have to give it one more go in a few weeks. Thanks for the confirmation.
Back from a trip and made some good progress. So I was able to clear the right side control arm bolt from the oil cooler line fitting without removing the line. It did take a fair amount of fiddling and I did need to pull fairly hard down on the oil cooler mounting bracket to get enough clearance to slide it out, but it worked.
From on there I worked on the three strut bolts. This time I removed the two lower bolts and only loosened the larger top E20 torx bolt but didn’t remove it. This allowed plenty of “swing” movement to allow the ball joint end to wiggle up and out. By doing it this way, the top bolt stays in supporting the knuckle and makes it a one man job. I got the new arm from Syncro in place but I’m saving installing the new bolt and oil cooler clearance issue for tomorrow. I fear pulling that bolt out was much easier than putting in. TBD.
Well getting that bolt back in was a “pain in the dick” to borrow an expression. If you have a PFL with that oil cooler directly in front of the control arm mount, plan on doing this side last. The drivers side was easy enough with the ball joint separator as previously described. Pulling the bolt out was one matter. But even just getting a few mms started into the new bushing was another. Here’s what I did. First, remover the front section of wheel liner. Don’t try folding it out of the way etc. that’s how I started. Just pull it out. It’s maybe 2 minutes. This gives a nice clear view of everything. I hadn’t done this at first and wish I had.
Next, I played around loosening some bolts on the oil cooler until I found some that eventually provided enough play to finally get the bolt started. Even once I had, it still wasn’t pleasant and I was certain I was marring the threads in the process. The relief I felt when I finally got the bolt to seat home was amazing. Lol. Almost to that point where anxiety takes over and you’re certain you’re towing your ride to the pros to let them fix it. Perseverance and all that. Anyways, haven’t even driven them yet, but hopefully someone will find this helpful.
Too funny! No, the bolt couldn't go the other way. There's a small "pocket" on the other side where the nut goes. I will say the bolt is at least several mms longer and protrudes a ways out from the nut after fully torqued. I suppose someone could cut down the bolt to make it easier. Anyways, I'm sure there's some procedure out there and some easy way to shift the oil cooler out of the way for clearance. I was doing it by myself, in my garage, figuring it out as I went. I'd definitely be curious to know how a shop would do it differently, if at all.
Thanks for this diy thread. This is exactly what I was searching for and you came through with the info. I am planning to replace the control arm bolts and was wondering how to work around that oil cooler.
let us know the result/ performance of the fcp arms.
I’d started this thread:https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...ml#post7690042
to get some p/ns to do the job. It kinda morphed into a quasi-DIY but not that well documented.
I decided to just make a new thread to make it easier to find in a search and to cover the whole Upper Control Arm process.
I ran into a clearance issue with my wheel well oil cooler on the right side after having smoothly
completed the left side the day before. I wasn’t expecting a hard line to be in the way and didn’t have whatever parts to deal with it. The issue is there’s very little clearance to get a reverse torx socket on the long bolt that attaches the arm to the chassis because of the line mounting. Once I managed to find the right combination of extensions, I got the socket on and managed to use a 21mm wrench on the nut towards the inside and removed it. But then it was clear the bolt couldn’t come out because the is in the way. This image shows where the connection is made:
Now now I need to find p/n for this fitting and I assume a new gasket or crush washer and small bolt to r&r after I go back and disconnect it in order to create the necessary clearance.
Just heads up to anyone diy-ing. Anyone familiar with the wheel well oil cooler and this fitting on the bottom? Is this the normal drain location? Any ideas how much oil I’ll lose upon disconnect?
i figure you are replacing these since they appear cracked rubber in photos. Were you having issues with drivability with car before. Ie. knocking sounds or car wandering over bumps due to the control arms?
Correct I did it bc I’ve got 70,000 miles
on that rubber and wanted to eliminate slop improve feedback for trackdays. Can’t say specific symptoms as I only ever drove the car in its current state.
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