Wheel alignment
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Wheel alignment
I have wider rear tires on my c63 275/30/19, and I want to fix my camber for a even tire wear. I'm about to purchase adjustable upper control arms for the rear. My question is do I have to do the same for the front or can I take it in for an alignment and get a good result?
#2
Senior Member
I have wider rear tires on my c63 275/30/19, and I want to fix my camber for a even tire wear. I'm about to purchase adjustable upper control arms for the rear. My question is do I have to do the same for the front or can I take it in for an alignment and get a good result?
1. Alignment bolts from MB (A 000 333 10 71). These have the ability to adjust camber to specific settings (I'm blanking on the adjustability right now, I'm sure somebody will chime in. If not, I'll edit this later). Some people have had success with this, others not so much. It's the cheapest fix, but also it might not solve your issue.
2. K-MAC front camber/castor/toe bushings. I run these on my car and I'm lowered on H&R springs, I'm barely within spec. I can't say whether or not I recommend them. My one gripe is the squeaking when hitting bumps at low speeds or turning at low speeds. Aside from that, they work great. I know Kevin says to check the torque specs, and I had my mechanic double-verify that it is correct, and it is.
3. K-MAC camber plates. I've never used them, nor researched them, so I'm uninformed on the subject. Mag1c Carp3t is selling a set of them so maybe you can ask him. (link to it here)
4. Adj. camber arms for the front (The option you mentioned). I would personally go this route if I were to do it all over again. IIRC, F-1 Fabrications makes some good parts. I'm sure there are others out there too.
Hope this helps, if I made any mistakes (or left anything out) I'm sure somebody will correct me. Best of luck.
Last edited by curt.r; 10-22-2019 at 07:29 PM. Reason: Grammatical errors
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Unfortunately from factory you can only correct the toe wear on the W204s. You have four options to correcting the camber in the front:
1. Alignment bolts from MB (A 000 333 10 71). These have the ability to adjust camber to specific settings (I'm blanking on the adjustability right now, I'm sure somebody will chime in. If not, I'll edit this later). Some people have had success with this, others not so much. It's the cheapest fix, but also it might not solve your issue.
2. K-MAC front camber/castor/toe bushings. I run these on my car and I'm lowered on H&R springs, I'm barely within spec. I can't say whether or not I recommend them. My one gripe is the squeaking when hitting bumps at low speeds or turning at low speeds. Aside from that, they work great. I know Kevin says to check the torque specs, and I had my mechanic double-verify that it is correct, and it is.
3. K-MAC camber plates. I've never used them, nor researched them, so I'm uninformed on the subject. Mag1c Carp3t is selling a set of them so maybe you can ask him. (link to it here)
4. Adj. camber arms for the front (The option you mentioned). I would personally go this route if I were to do it all over again. IIRC, F-1 Fabrications makes some good parts. I'm sure there are others out there too.
Hope this helps, if I made any mistakes (or left anything out) I'm sure somebody will correct me. Best of luck.
1. Alignment bolts from MB (A 000 333 10 71). These have the ability to adjust camber to specific settings (I'm blanking on the adjustability right now, I'm sure somebody will chime in. If not, I'll edit this later). Some people have had success with this, others not so much. It's the cheapest fix, but also it might not solve your issue.
2. K-MAC front camber/castor/toe bushings. I run these on my car and I'm lowered on H&R springs, I'm barely within spec. I can't say whether or not I recommend them. My one gripe is the squeaking when hitting bumps at low speeds or turning at low speeds. Aside from that, they work great. I know Kevin says to check the torque specs, and I had my mechanic double-verify that it is correct, and it is.
3. K-MAC camber plates. I've never used them, nor researched them, so I'm uninformed on the subject. Mag1c Carp3t is selling a set of them so maybe you can ask him. (link to it here)
4. Adj. camber arms for the front (The option you mentioned). I would personally go this route if I were to do it all over again. IIRC, F-1 Fabrications makes some good parts. I'm sure there are others out there too.
Hope this helps, if I made any mistakes (or left anything out) I'm sure somebody will correct me. Best of luck.
#4
Senior Member
EDIT: Added another one of your quotes.
Last edited by curt.r; 10-23-2019 at 12:22 AM.
#5
SPONSOR
Unfortunately from factory you can only correct the toe wear on the W204s. You have four options to correcting the camber in the front:
1. Alignment bolts from MB (A 000 333 10 71). These have the ability to adjust camber to specific settings (I'm blanking on the adjustability right now, I'm sure somebody will chime in. If not, I'll edit this later). Some people have had success with this, others not so much. It's the cheapest fix, but also it might not solve your issue.
2. K-MAC front camber/castor/toe bushings. I run these on my car and I'm lowered on H&R springs, I'm barely within spec. I can't say whether or not I recommend them. My one gripe is the squeaking when hitting bumps at low speeds or turning at low speeds. Aside from that, they work great. I know Kevin says to check the torque specs, and I had my mechanic double-verify that it is correct, and it is.
3. K-MAC camber plates. I've never used them, nor researched them, so I'm uninformed on the subject. Mag1c Carp3t is selling a set of them so maybe you can ask him. (link to it here)
4. Adj. camber arms for the front (The option you mentioned). I would personally go this route if I were to do it all over again. IIRC, F-1 Fabrications makes some good parts. I'm sure there are others out there too.
Hope this helps, if I made any mistakes (or left anything out) I'm sure somebody will correct me. Best of luck.
1. Alignment bolts from MB (A 000 333 10 71). These have the ability to adjust camber to specific settings (I'm blanking on the adjustability right now, I'm sure somebody will chime in. If not, I'll edit this later). Some people have had success with this, others not so much. It's the cheapest fix, but also it might not solve your issue.
2. K-MAC front camber/castor/toe bushings. I run these on my car and I'm lowered on H&R springs, I'm barely within spec. I can't say whether or not I recommend them. My one gripe is the squeaking when hitting bumps at low speeds or turning at low speeds. Aside from that, they work great. I know Kevin says to check the torque specs, and I had my mechanic double-verify that it is correct, and it is.
3. K-MAC camber plates. I've never used them, nor researched them, so I'm uninformed on the subject. Mag1c Carp3t is selling a set of them so maybe you can ask him. (link to it here)
4. Adj. camber arms for the front (The option you mentioned). I would personally go this route if I were to do it all over again. IIRC, F-1 Fabrications makes some good parts. I'm sure there are others out there too.
Hope this helps, if I made any mistakes (or left anything out) I'm sure somebody will correct me. Best of luck.
Obviously, need some input here - re squeaking - design has been in production now for over 25 years so well and truly proven re longevity. While all out heavy V8 competition racing has proven the front and rear bushings re strength.
Squeaking always comes back to metal to metal contact:
1. Nut not secure. Most locking devices depend on reverse teeth - if not fully tightened will loosen! We resolved this issue by inventing a fail safe lock system. Now impossible for a nut to inadvertently loosen.
2. Time of adjustment / alignment if excess force applied when dragging tires sideways situation could arise where center bonding detached. It is all about making products bullet proof. Now centers are one integral unit no matter what load applied nothing to separate.
The front upper replacement strut mounts we manufacture in two versions
Stage 2 Street / Race
Stage 3 Full Race
Being the longest established adjuster kit manufacturer - all the features you would expect unlike other brands not steel or soft billet alloy - instead the ultimate highest aircraft 7075 grade aluminum.
Stage 3 having massive 1 7/8" self align spherical bearings with again massive 3 3/8" separate fully sealed radial thrust bearings to take steering loads and to prevent spring drag, binding.
Patented design allows the biggest (and quickest) adjustment system.
Also for the W204 uprated performance bushings for the 6 Rear multi link arms.
Noticeable improvement - less twitch, flex loss of traction. Especially when applying power to lane change / overtake.
To further improve rear end traction - uprated bushings for the rear subframe. Plus Mono ball / 2 axis diff bushings. Complete with extraction tool simplifying the procedure.
Will be displaying at next week's SEMA show Booth 52005 so call by and check it all out.
Have also attached current Mercedes Catalog. Please click here
Best regards
Kevin
#6
Senior Member
Obviously, need some input here - re squeaking - design has been in production now for over 25 years so well and truly proven re longevity. While all out heavy V8 competition racing has proven the front and rear bushings re strength.
Squeaking always comes back to metal to metal contact:
1. Nut not secure. Most locking devices depend on reverse teeth - if not fully tightened will loosen! We resolved this issue by inventing a fail safe lock system. Now impossible for a nut to inadvertently loosen.
2. Time of adjustment / alignment if excess force applied when dragging tires sideways situation could arise where center bonding detached. It is all about making products bullet proof. Now centers are one integral unit no matter what load applied nothing to separate.
Best regards
Kevin
Squeaking always comes back to metal to metal contact:
1. Nut not secure. Most locking devices depend on reverse teeth - if not fully tightened will loosen! We resolved this issue by inventing a fail safe lock system. Now impossible for a nut to inadvertently loosen.
2. Time of adjustment / alignment if excess force applied when dragging tires sideways situation could arise where center bonding detached. It is all about making products bullet proof. Now centers are one integral unit no matter what load applied nothing to separate.
Best regards
Kevin
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#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
whats your camber setup for the front?as far as the control arms ? also in the rear what else do u have other than adjustable upper control arms for camber from f1 fabrications?..lastly whats your alignment specs?
#9
SPONSOR
I vaguely recall you mentioning that you re-engineered the bushings and you actually gave me a call to follow up on it. I don't remember if I had the old version or not. By the time I got the news I was literally picking up the car from the shop as we spoke. I handed the phone over to my mechanic and you discussed with my mechanic about how to align the bushings and wanted to verify the install process. My mechanic verified that he followed the instructions to a tee. I don't have any negative feelings towards the bushings, just not sure if I can recommend them with my squeaking issue. I've went back and had my mechanic double check the bushings and they are tightened down correctly. As for the second choice, I have no clue. But I'm going to live with the squeak as I'd prefer not to spend another $800 for R&R. Thanks for the check up Kevin, but unfortunately this is something I'm just going to have to live with.
New car industry is all about constant, ongoing improvements.
Same with the aftermarket!!
We saw the problem of metal to metal contact if bush was overloaded when adjusting.
SO WE ELIMINATED THE SOURCE - now only one moving part. Nothing to detach.
Click the link below for front instruction sheet which clearly shows side view of adjuster and one piece center, nothing to detach. Advise address and will rid that squeak!!
Worth pointing out also these front arms are the main critical suspension arms. With KMAC also therefore the added security of retaining the OEM high strength forged alloy arms. Not replacing with welded, fabricated steel.
Same with rear suspension. Replacing the existing lower arm bushings and adding precise Camber and "extra" Toe adjustability. Therefore retaining the security of OEM arms.
The separate KMAC upper Camber arms also for security are forged alloy same as OEM. Not welded, fabricated steel or extruded aluminum and include extra Toe adjustable bushings (like all KMAC rear kits) to compensate for the new Camber facility.
https://i.imgur.com/KGMNP7n.png
https://i.imgur.com/iywDnXL.png
Last edited by K-Mac; 10-29-2019 at 11:11 PM.
#10
Senior Member
New car industry is all about constant, ongoing improvements.
Same with the aftermarket!!
We saw the problem of metal to metal contact if bush was overloaded when adjusting.
SO WE ELIMINATED THE SOURCE - now only one moving part. Nothing to detach.
Click the link below for front instruction sheet which clearly shows side view of adjuster and one piece center, nothing to detach. Advise address and will rid that squeak!!
https://i.imgur.com/KGMNP7n.png
https://i.imgur.com/iywDnXL.png
Same with the aftermarket!!
We saw the problem of metal to metal contact if bush was overloaded when adjusting.
SO WE ELIMINATED THE SOURCE - now only one moving part. Nothing to detach.
Click the link below for front instruction sheet which clearly shows side view of adjuster and one piece center, nothing to detach. Advise address and will rid that squeak!!
https://i.imgur.com/KGMNP7n.png
https://i.imgur.com/iywDnXL.png