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The Killer Chiller install with the drag kit required a lot of modifications. The stock airbox on the drivers side needed to be cut to allow room for the T valve. Joe was at Kincaid Performance has been very helpful throughout the install.
the Drag Race kit installed.
I ran the KC system without the intercooler. It’s important to note that I have less than a gallon in cooling reservoir for the whipple. But here’s the IAT results.
Before the KC install my IATs were sitting at 120 and peaked at 156
I am pleased with the KC system. Even though I had to cut into the stock airbox I feel the line that goes into the airbox cools the air as it goes inside on the drivers side. There is no loss in power. In fact, the car pulls like a freight train!
now it’s time to dyno the car and see if there’s improvement based on the heat soak 550whp numbers.
BEASSSSSSTTT. How much boost? What are the next steps in the build? Need to take this beast on a track now. Congratulations on the amazing numbers.
Thanks mate. The electronic boost monitor shows me 12.3 PSI when I take the barometric pressure minus the manifold absolute pressure.
I am not sure how accurate this is. I am using HPtuners. I need to get a boost gauge for an accurate reading. the next step is the head bolts or studs.
These chiller are a pain to put in our cars...engine bay is sooooo tight . I did my install little different. Deletemy washer fluid tank to make room.
Mate. I too had to delete the windshield washer reservoir but I decided to keep it for a stealth meth setup. Do you have more photos of your install? That install looks ****!
No adverse affects so far (thankfully). The only adverse affect is hot AC inside the cabin, which doesn't bother me.
That's exactly how I was thinking of mounting my larger oil cooler, simple bracket and strong giving it priority. My AC is gone so not worried about that, just concerned about turbulent air flow to the rad decreasing performance.
That's exactly how I was thinking of mounting my larger oil cooler, simple bracket and strong giving it priority. My AC is gone so not worried about that, just concerned about turbulent air flow to the rad decreasing performance.
Which oil cooler are you referring to? As long as the oil cooler has fins you shouldn't have any problems with airflow.
Each dyno reads different. Yes, this is with the 50mm pulley.
I did Dyno the car using the same Dyno with and without the KC unit. See below.
this is without the KC unit.
this is after the KC unit. One thing that’s important to note is the reading is higher due to The standard reading and not SAE. SAE READS 574. The difference in power is 17WHP with the KC unit.
Which oil cooler are you referring to? As long as the oil cooler has fins you shouldn't have any problems with airflow.
Air exiting a rad is disturbed. That's why a cooler array has them all stacked close together. Worst case, I try it in that up front location then re-locate if necessary.
No. I'm using the KC unit because I went with a smaller pulley (50mm at 12.3psi) , which generates a substantial amount of heat vs the 57mm pulley at 6-8 psi. The KC unit prevents heat soak from IAT being too high. If the IAT reading goes above 100 the ecu will start pulling timing and your peak power is affected. The KC unit simply helps restore power that you aren't seeing do to heat soak. You are also able to drive the car more and push the blower as the AC is constantly cooling the blower VS a traditional intercooler setup.
No. I'm using the KC unit because I went with a smaller pulley (50mm at 12.3psi) , which generates a substantial amount of heat vs the 57mm pulley at 6-8 psi. The KC unit prevents heat soak from IAT being too high. If the IAT reading goes above 100 the ecu will start pulling timing and your peak power is affected. The KC unit simply helps restore power that you aren't seeing do to heat soak. You are also able to drive the car more and push the blower as the AC is constantly cooling the blower VS a traditional intercooler setup.
ECU pull timing after 100F IATs? Thats about 37C only.
Pretty low threshold to be pulling timing.
we no longer have this issue as per the previous tuner, but how the Bosch Motronic works is, it bases all timing pull off how cleanly the spark ignited. if the spark ionization is sensing a non-optimal combustion, it will pull timing based off of that. air temp has no factor on this. Bosch Motronic tuning is much different than tuning any other computer.
with my tuning on mbc23k's car we're not seeing any timing pull even at high IAT's. this is because his tune is now optimized and spark is burning cleanly.
So unfortunately I had issues with my Eurocharged tune. Every time I had an issue with my tune I would contact EC and would be immediately brushed off or told that I had to send them an email. It's dissuading to see that the only way I could actually get in contact with the tuner, Jerry was by email. This was frustrating for me because I was unable to emphasize the issues that I was dealing with.
My car on the EC tune ran ok but that’s all I knew at the time... The problems started after I started to daily my c63 and I was able to notice every shortfall and serious issues with the tune. To clarify, I purchased a tune from Eurocharged with a rich base map. Jerry did inform me that I would need to schedule a time with my local dyno so we could hammer out the supercharger tune. Jerry requested that I send him a photo of the AFR as well as the dyno plot graph. So this is not a "canned tune". Sometimes the car would feel fast, and at other times it felt like I just kept losing power more and more.
For two months I went back and fourth with this tuner. I had nothing but issues with the car on their tune:
misfiring
Running too lean
Multiple replacement of 02 sensors
Multiple replacement of spark plugs
Inconsistent power output
Constantly dealing with a P061B code
Replacement of MAF sensors.
Replacement of Kooks GESI hi flow cats.
You get it.... The list went on.
I decided to give @hachiroku a shot. @PeterA90 recommended me to Barry after explaining to him my frustration with my c63 build.
Barry took the time to actually listen to my frustrations. He didn’t promise me anything other than... “the car is going to drive as it is meant to”. "stock drivability but fast WOT".
When speaking to him it is clear that he knows the m156 inside and out. He didn’t like to blame the other tuners for failing to properly tune my car. It’s understandable because I decided to do a build that involved using modified parts to make more power.
What he did do was work with me and has spent at-least 100+ hours on remapping my car from scratch. Barry had me purchase the HPtuners scan tool so he could diagnose any potential issues prior to tuning my car. In fact, he wouldn’t work on my car until he could make sure that there were no mechanical issues.
I sent him a log of the Eurocharged supercharged tune that I had.
Barry was able to see exactly what parameters were messed with and explained to my why my car was not running consistent.
When I asked Barry why nobody could seem to tune my car he informed me that from what he could see on my log files, my previous tuner relied on the Bosch Motronics system to tune my car.
Basically, what this means is that the tune would force minimum and maximum timing, but the computer was left to decide whether or not the specific parameters were met to give more power over the stock tune. He further explained that most big name tuners don’t actually take the time to properly tune our cars. GO FIGURE Unfortunately they only mess with the AFR, injector pulse rate and raise the minimum and maximum timing. The rest is decided by the ECU. This is why my car was having issues with inconsistent power output.
Now that I am on Eightysixtuned I am no longer experiencing any tune related problems. If I ever have any issues with my car I will ask Barry and he can quickly diagnose the issue with the logs I send him. He was able to see that my 02 sensors were going out. I know Barry doesn’t like to advertise numbers but I feel like I should post this up anyways. My car made 600WHP on pump gas. No e85.
So I wasn’t going to post this but I feel like everybody in the community should be wary of the fact that I had issues with the injectors from fuel injector clinic, or FIC. The injectors had less than 3,000 miles on them before I started experiencing issues. This is not the only time that I’ve experienced this issue. The first instance I had issues with my car and my car would misfire randomly. I took the car to Benztec and they told me that they found that two of my injectors were leaking. So I thought. Okay... no problem. I’ll just send all my injectors in for a warranty exchange. Unfortunately I got the bait and switch from this company.
Basically the injectors got stuck open and would mess with my fuel trims. I experienced sputtering, misfires, and rich running engine. Cheers to @hachiroku for pointing out the issue before the engine hydrolocked, not once, but twice!
So the first time I sent my injectors in for a warranty repair. FIC said it will be covered under warranty. They then called me after receiving the injectors and said that my injectors had no issues (when I know this wasn’t the case). They said that they performed a flow test and cleaning. I said, cool when can I get the injectors back? They didn’t say they would charge me for this, which I wouldn’t mind but the fact is these injectors had less than 3,000 miles on them. They shouldn’t be leaking. So they denied to cover them under their warranty and held my injectors hostage until I forked over the cleaning and flow test fee. I thought.. whatever I’ll give them the benefit of the doubt. Maybe somehow they did get dirty. So I paid the invoice and got my injectors back.
5,000 miles later... Fast forward to the present my car starts experiencing stuck throttle bodys, sputtering, and misfires under load. I sent Barry my Hp tuning logs. He calls me up and tells me not to drive the car anymore and replace the injectors with the stock injectors until he can send me 630cc injectors and a harness to go with them.
Barry found that my car was throwing extra fuel when the accelerator was not active. He also saw that the throttle was sticking. This was causing my fuel trims to go out of wack. He told me that he suspects it’s the injectors again. So I replaced my injectors with the stock injectors for the time being. Barry sends me an updated tune, which detuned my car and accounted for the stock injectors.
Once replacing the FIC injectors with the stock injectors and all of my issues completely went away. The car drove much nicer than it did before, no more sputtering.
Today, I received the 630cc injectors and the custom harness made by Eightysixtuned. I can’t wait to slap these on and get back to being fast again.
05-18-2020, 03:37 PM
Unfortunately they only mess with the AFR, injector pulse rate and raise the minimum and maximum timing. The rest is decided by the ECU. This is why my car was having issues with inconsistent power output.
