Ideal alignment specs
#1
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2010 C63 P31 AMG
Ideal alignment specs
Anyone care to share some alignment And suspension advice? I’ve been lowered on Carlson 19 way adjustable coil overs for past 6-7 years. Most alignments were to get me within factory specs. Nothing special. I want to try out something different that can help correct a couple of issues i have experienced and still experience over the past few years.
1). under hard acceleration towards 90 mph -120 my car feels unstable, darty and feels like it’s swaying from left to right?
2). under hard breaking going into a corner...the rear feels unstable and feels like it will kick out, feel like there is no traction a little sway left to right.
3). my turn in very sharp, would like a little more under steer?
tires are Toyo Proxes 4plus on 19, staggered, 235 front and 265 rear.
i have adjustable front and rear sway bar links
rear adjustable camber arms.
no clunking noise and arms were inspected, no issues.
some have suggested running a bit more toe in front and toe out rear?
1). under hard acceleration towards 90 mph -120 my car feels unstable, darty and feels like it’s swaying from left to right?
2). under hard breaking going into a corner...the rear feels unstable and feels like it will kick out, feel like there is no traction a little sway left to right.
3). my turn in very sharp, would like a little more under steer?
tires are Toyo Proxes 4plus on 19, staggered, 235 front and 265 rear.
i have adjustable front and rear sway bar links
rear adjustable camber arms.
no clunking noise and arms were inspected, no issues.
some have suggested running a bit more toe in front and toe out rear?
#2
Anyone care to share some alignment And suspension advice? I’ve been lowered on Carlson 19 way adjustable coil overs for past 6-7 years. Most alignments were to get me within factory specs. Nothing special. I want to try out something different that can help correct a couple of issues i have experienced and still experience over the past few years.
1). under hard acceleration towards 90 mph -120 my car feels unstable, darty and feels like it’s swaying from left to right?
2). under hard breaking going into a corner...the rear feels unstable and feels like it will kick out, feel like there is no traction a little sway left to right.
3). my turn in very sharp, would like a little more under steer?
1). under hard acceleration towards 90 mph -120 my car feels unstable, darty and feels like it’s swaying from left to right?
2). under hard breaking going into a corner...the rear feels unstable and feels like it will kick out, feel like there is no traction a little sway left to right.
3). my turn in very sharp, would like a little more under steer?
1. Toe in Front and rear
2. Toe in front and rear
3. Toe 0 Front to Toe out
Camber -1.7-2.0 Front -2 rear, Toe in 0.15 per tyre rear, 0.10-0.05 front
Thats a no brainer Street setup
When I read your description, all you need is more toe-in rear.
Braking and turning in the curve = more camber at the rear axle = stable back
Last edited by SRG_C63; 06-07-2020 at 06:06 PM.
#3
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It also depends on how low your car is. If it's really slammed it's going to drive like crap even with the best alignment. Suspension was engineered to work best at the factory ride height. sure lowering helps the center of gravity but it screws up everything else. Just something to keep in mind. 1" is no big deal, but once you go farther it gets exponentially worse.
#4
It also depends on how low your car is. If it's really slammed it's going to drive like crap even with the best alignment. Suspension was engineered to work best at the factory ride height. sure lowering helps the center of gravity but it screws up everything else. Just something to keep in mind. 1" is no big deal, but once you go farther it gets exponentially worse.
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
If you can get the angles right slammed it still works. Excessive camber and too much dynamic change can hurt cars that are very low (bump steer can be much more pronounced at different ride heights and doesn't show up during an alignment), but I've aligned plenty of lowered cars without issue.
#6
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2010 C63 P31 AMG
It also depends on how low your car is. If it's really slammed it's going to drive like crap even with the best alignment. Suspension was engineered to work best at the factory ride height. sure lowering helps the center of gravity but it screws up everything else. Just something to keep in mind. 1" is no big deal, but once you go farther it gets exponentially worse.
#7
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2010 C63 P31 AMG
For Street?
1. Toe in Front and rear
2. Toe in front and rear
3. Toe 0 Front to Toe out
Camber -1.7-2.0 Front -2 rear, Toe in 0.15 per tyre rear, 0.10-0.05 front
Thats a no brainer Street setup
When I read your description, all you need is more toe-in rear.
Braking and turning in the curve = more camber at the rear axle = stable back
1. Toe in Front and rear
2. Toe in front and rear
3. Toe 0 Front to Toe out
Camber -1.7-2.0 Front -2 rear, Toe in 0.15 per tyre rear, 0.10-0.05 front
Thats a no brainer Street setup
When I read your description, all you need is more toe-in rear.
Braking and turning in the curve = more camber at the rear axle = stable back
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#9
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I mean I suppose you're correct if you get extended balljoints or modify the mounting location of components to correct all the geometry ruined by lowering so much but i doubt anyone is doing that. I'm sure the dampeners on certain coilover setups can accomodate the height but It's more complicated than just camber / caster / toe. Just because it's lower and your specs are somewhat desirable doesn't mean it actually has more mechanical grip. Your car do what you want.
#10
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2010 C63 P31 AMG
I mean I suppose you're correct if you get extended balljoints or modify the mounting location of components to correct all the geometry ruined by lowering so much but i doubt anyone is doing that. I'm sure the dampeners on certain coilover setups can accomodate the height but It's more complicated than just camber / caster / toe. Just because it's lower and your specs are somewhat desirable doesn't mean it actually has more mechanical grip. Your car do what you want.