Looking into buying a W204 C63 AMG
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Newbie
Joined: Oct 2020
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From: Fairfax, VA
BMW X5
Looking into buying a W204 C63 AMG
Hello everyone! I am currently looking into buying a W204 C63 (2011-2015). I have looked around this forum and know about the couple "issues" that are associated with this car. My question is if there is any big differences mechanically with the 2011's and the face-lifted 2012's? I know the newer cars have the MCT transmission and an overall refresh of the exterior and interior. Some of the 2011's also got updated head-bolts, so I would assume they were mechanically about the same. My budget is around 27K, so I am trying to decide between a lower mileage 2011 (60,XXX) and a slightly higher mileage 2012 (87,XXX). Thanks!
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Joined: May 2017
Posts: 242
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From: West by god Virginia
'08 C300 4Matic Sport / '11 C63
Yes, as long as you do a vin check a good chunk of 2011's are good to go minus MCT for tranny. My 2011 has plastic valve covers which is a good indicator of no headbolt issue, but as always check engine number to verify.
Keep in mind FL 2012+ have different oil cooler setup and a few other tweaks but essentially mechanically all fixes were in place engine wise with 2011 MY. Cam Adj , Cams and tappets are still an issue no matter the superseded part # so that doesn't really matter.
I did as you did a year ago, found a decently low mileage 2011 and just couldn't pass it up for 20k.
I will say, tech wise the FL may be worth the extra coin to you, really need to try each out to see. A small, very small ounce of me wishes I went FL but pure driving PFL is so sweet for performance/Dollar.
Keep in mind FL 2012+ have different oil cooler setup and a few other tweaks but essentially mechanically all fixes were in place engine wise with 2011 MY. Cam Adj , Cams and tappets are still an issue no matter the superseded part # so that doesn't really matter.
I did as you did a year ago, found a decently low mileage 2011 and just couldn't pass it up for 20k.
I will say, tech wise the FL may be worth the extra coin to you, really need to try each out to see. A small, very small ounce of me wishes I went FL but pure driving PFL is so sweet for performance/Dollar.
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Texas
10 C six trizzle
mct is better for the track with quicker shifts, worse in the city, especially in stop and go traffic. It's a lot more jerky. Also most face lift cars have bluetooth streaming. I know my 2010 doesn't but a 2011 might. I just use an adapter for it. Ultimately the torque converter will be more ideal for launching. Race start on the mct is pretty weak. Although converter trans is rated at 700nm and mct is rated at 1000nm. So if you have big plans like a blower, the mct will be a better option unless you want to rebuild or upgrade the other. Considering I'm on the street 99% of the time I'm more than pleased with a converter. Everytime I drive an mct car, especially one with a bad tune I'm glad mine is a converter car. Condition will always trump age and mileage. Get a pre purchase inspection.
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From: Essex, UK
C63 2011, 125 Edition
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From: Toronto
2013 C63 P31
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From: Essex, UK
C63 2011, 125 Edition
I’ve also seen later C63 Sedans/Saloons have the heating/air conditioning controls for rear seat passengers. What year cars are those? I don’t have those.
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From: Toronto
2013 C63 P31
that's an option, it also includes peasant blockers for the rear window and rear doors
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From: Georgia
2013 Mercedes C63 AMG
I’ve owned both, PFL (late 2011 model, with revised head bolts) and now the FL. The biggest difference is the MCT. And it’s worth every penny.
The “jerkiness” that some owners mention is true. This mainly happens in first gear since most people have a heavy foot driving these cars. They’ll apply too much throttle, then get out of it then get back in it. If you have a steady foot you get used to it. This also goes away, or at least in my case, with LTH and some fine tuning.
For city driving, if you’re the type, leave it in C mode and the car will always stay in second gear. This will eliminate any of the jerkiness down low.
The “jerkiness” that some owners mention is true. This mainly happens in first gear since most people have a heavy foot driving these cars. They’ll apply too much throttle, then get out of it then get back in it. If you have a steady foot you get used to it. This also goes away, or at least in my case, with LTH and some fine tuning.
For city driving, if you’re the type, leave it in C mode and the car will always stay in second gear. This will eliminate any of the jerkiness down low.
Last edited by Slow_c63; May 16, 2021 at 08:33 AM.
