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i have decided to dive a bit deeper into the world of modifying vehicles and ordered a heap of parts. Just need to wait for them to arrive from the USA.
In preparation for all the mods i have planned, i figured it wise to gather some baseline data that is a bit more reliable than just dyno numbers. I bought a Dragy for just this reason. I have never used a Dragy before, launched my car, or even driven it at full throttle(depressed all the way to the floor)
I did two runs today, one in comfort mode, and one in sport mode. TC was on for both runs. Car is a 2011 C63 with k&n filters, resonator delete and an evotech tune. Car made 332 whp before the tune, and 368 whp after the tune. Car was tuned with pretty bald sport contis which kept breaking traction on the dyno. Current tyres are yokohama AD08R's i think. Surface was a pretty ****ty rural road.
Times seem a bit slow, will definitely need to work on getting the car off the line a bit better, may experiment with turning TC off, and i need to remember to keep my foot flat, and not hold my foot at ~50-60% throttle.
Try keeping the slope to as closely to 0 as possible and your time will change alot. since your have traction issues why not try 100-200km test .
Hey mate,
Its a bit hard to find a decent stretch of private road to get it up too 200kmh. Unfortunately the roads here are all pretty trash, with the surface being partially loose, and certainly not cambered correctly for those kinds of speeds.
I had a crack again today with the TC turned off, the rear of the car certainly got a bit lively off the line and there was a bit of wheel spin. Times improved a little, but certainly not what the car runs in its stock form. The car "should" run a 4.9 second 0-100 and mid 12 second 1/4 mile in its standard form if im not mistaken?
My dyno figure of 368whp seems a bit low. Or is that about right for a car with a tune only? Do you think the car having crap tyres on it when it was dynoed(causing it to break traction in 4th gear)would lower the whp figure?
Do point out for the W204 C63 AMG “to get power to the ground”, we manufacture a "TOTAL SYSTEM" !
REAR SUSPENSION:
#502628K UPRATED BUSHING KIT replaces the soft rubber bushings in the ‘6’ rear multi link arms. Less twitch, flex, loss of traction.
#502226K REAR CAMBER (and extra Toe) kit to dial in (single wrench) rear tires for maximum traction.
#503028N SET 4 REAR SUB FRAME BUSHES Designed to replace the soft rubber, air voided OEM bushes furher reducing unwanted rear end flex. Complete with bush extracton tool.
#503228J REPLACEMENT UPRATED DIFF. MOUNT BUSHES ‘2’. Also Mono ball / 2 Axis design.
FRONT SUSPENSION;
#502616K THE 4 FRONT MAIN LOWER ARM BUSHINGS. Deleting the OEM soft rubber, oil and air voided bushings. KMAC having more than twice the load bearing / impact area with the forward facing thrust arm bushes being Monoball / 2 Axis design.
These ‘4’ bushes provide also for the first time “Camber and Caster’ adjustment to further improve traction (and extra track width).
#503016-2L REPLACEMENT TOP STRUT MOUNT KIT (STAGE 2 – Street / Race) providing serious adjustment of both Camber and Caster (up to Extra 3 degrees negative Camber).
#503016-3L (STAGE 3 – Full Race) SAME FEATURES AS STAGE 2, but solid / no flex for instantaneous steering response.
Delivery Worldwide $40 one kit $20 each additional
This was my dragy results with somewhat similar mods/hp.
My 2012 p31 coupe has secondary cat and res delete with ec v7 tune and dynod at 390rwhp. I’m on 18” forgestar wheels and Michelin p4s 265 tires in the rear. You should be at 4.5s easily 0-100 km. All I did was put it in S+ with tc in sport mode and floor it. I didn’t even use race start.
This was my dragy results with somewhat similar mods/hp.
My 2012 p31 coupe has secondary cat and res delete with ec v7 tune and dynod at 390rwhp. I’m on 18” forgestar wheels and Michelin p4s 265 tires in the rear. You should be at 4.5s easily 0-100 km. All I did was put it in S+ with tc in sport mode and floor it. I didn’t even use race start.
p31’s dyno stock 420-430... something wrong with your car or your tune is causing knock
p31’s dyno stock 420-430... something wrong with your car or your tune is causing knock
Is that at the wheels? Curious what the numbers of p31 cars are over non p cars.
I spoke to my tuner yesterday and he reckons my numbers of 368whp are "quite normal" for a car with a tune and res delete. He did recommend i get my intake manifold cleaned of any oil residue which may be lowering my octane values.
2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
Originally Posted by Panzerbiscuit
Thats quite interesting. I thought my numbers seemed low as well.
Do you think having crap tyres which caused it to break traction on the dyno would have affected the readings?
Could well be that with the wheels spinning on the rollers instead of turning them that a poor reading is generated.
Have you seen any of the videos with guys in the trunk, adding weight over the wheels, trying to get traction on the rollers during a dyno run? They must think it's important.
Some of the effect may also be the operator, type of dyno and condition and ambient conditions (temperature, humidity, altitude, etc.)
I apologize if we're hijacking your thread OP/mods, but here's the dyno sheet for my car for both stock and minor mods. Last year, they were both done at the same facility on a Mustang Dyno a few weeks apart. I was surprised that the numbers were so low too for both baseline and that I only gained 13rwhp with cat/secondary res delete and a tune...
So i did a bit of number crunching.
My car came standard with 333Kw at the crank. That's roughly 446hp. Assuming a 17% drivetrain loss, that means i "should" have around 370hp at the wheels. Which begs the question. How come i dynoed at 332 whp "stock" and made 368 whp once turned? My stock number of 332 is significantly down from the standard figure of 370 whp. What gives? It's odd that the tuner says my figures are "quite normal" even though I barely make stock power once tuned.
Im taking my car to get dynoed on a different dyno just to confirm the previous readings.
No wonder i can't get a sub 5 second 0-100 time. Im down at least 40 hp.
When I first got my car, my numbers seemed low as well. We did some logging on the dyno, and the throttles were not opening all the way.
Took it to Mercedes and they flashed new software. It was much better after that.
Then we started tuning.
dyno's are a tough read of performance unless all you are doing is comparing before and after on back to back runs. with my tunes, for drag racing purposes I do one of two things, limit the torque onset ramp of the engine or limit throttle opening to aid in traction issues.
another thing to mention, higher mileage cars will have worse reacting cam adjusters. my car is now at 153k and my power output has drastically fallen off within the last 1-2 months with the occasional cam adjuster code. i'm sure they're toast and causing a great deal of power to be lost. i should have a rebuild kit for the adjusters on order this or next week.
dyno's are a tough read of performance unless all you are doing is comparing before and after on back to back runs. with my tunes, for drag racing purposes I do one of two things, limit the torque onset ramp of the engine or limit throttle opening to aid in traction issues.
another thing to mention, higher mileage cars will have worse reacting cam adjusters. my car is now at 153k and my power output has drastically fallen off within the last 1-2 months with the occasional cam adjuster code. i'm sure they're toast and causing a great deal of power to be lost. i should have a rebuild kit for the adjusters on order this or next week.
I ordered a cam adjuster rebuild kit from a member on the forum, should be with me in ~2 weeks, depending on the postal service. My car has 117k kms, ~90 somethingish miles, no rattles, no weird noises. No mention of screwed adjusters anytime i take it for a service. I ordered the rebuild kit more for my piece of mind more than anything else. Would data logging show if the adjusters were faulty?
Good to know that adjusters may be the cause of me being down on power/poor power delivery. Also gonna have my intake manifold cleaned/inspected when i have my catch can fitted, headers and upgraded engine pulleys fitted.
As a future mod, would upgraded engine and trans mounts help with performance? Or is it more of a reliability mod?
Anyone done any testing and seen and quantifiable gains from chasis bracing and strut bars? Car is never going to see a track, but if it makes the car more enjoyable to drive if be keen to explore that option.
draggy may show improvements if your adjusters were in fact faulty. the computer does have checks to determine if the adjusters are adjusting but i feel they are by no means accurate. my adjusters are seeing a max of 3 degree's variation. mine do also. make the knocking noise every so often which is a tell tell sign the adjusters are bad.
mounts will not improve performance. stiffer mounts will improve feel of engine when you accelerate or decelerate and only the feel.
Thought i would post a quick update rather than create a new thread.
I took my car to a different dyno, a hub dyno. Just for a second, baseline dyno where my tyres wouldn't effect the results. My numbers are still bang on stock. According to the dyno operator, my AFR is pretty lean and looks like it hasn't been tuned at all. This has raised more questions than its answered.
hub dynos are loaded dynos. they can simulate load as you're required to input vehicle weight as well. with loaded dynos by default, you can hold the vehicle in gear at any set RPM and it'll apply the calculated road load of the accelerating force against the vehicles weight against the hub of the wheel.
more accurate? yes to a degree. many dyno's are pretty accurate in comparison to their own calibration. the benefit is in situations where you are fully mapping your standalone computer. hub dynos, since they apply load will more accurately simulate road driving as so you can appropriately map your computer. in the end though, generally speaking vehicles run 1-2% leaner on real world when compared to full dyno mapping. this is due to the fact that it is nearly impossible to simulate actual air flow into the intake system at speed as well as though the cooling system.
The weird thing is, my before and after dyno runs look nothing like anyone else's. The 2 lines are basically the same and show no consistent "gains". It's only at the top end do i see any gains. It's the same story with the tq #'s. May as well be the same line.
that power drop off with your factory tune is definitely not normal. Dyno Dynamics generally rate low as well. lower or in the same ballpark as Mustang Dynos.
The weird thing is, my before and after dyno runs look nothing like anyone else's. The 2 lines are basically the same and show no consistent "gains". It's only at the top end do i see any gains. It's the same story with the tq #'s. May as well be the same line.
Back to back dyno runs
not normal for a tune to stock dyno run. Something is either wrong with the tune or your car. Do a leak down and compression test. If good check your timing and adjusters. If good get a different tune. But your stock dyno number is def lower than most.
10-23-2020, 07:43 AM
