Proof that we’ve been paying Mercedes/AMG tax
I just noticed your edit.
They are or are not magnetic?
Ti is non magnetic. So if the magnet sticks, it rules out Ti.
If they aren’t magnetic and also aren’t Ti (failed the fire test) It means that they are very high In Molybdenum, Chromium, and Vanadium. This also means that the parent metal should not rust.
The VW lifter that I have here is very magnetic.
Ti, when disturbed, leaves a slightly less than shiny gray matte finish. The stuff is super sketchy to grind, because if you start making sparks, the dust could ignite. So lots of coolant lol.
Certain grinding applications of Ti, are actually ground in a low oxygen atmosphere to prevent auto ignition.




The only way I can see titanium working for the lifter material is if it had a coating applied with an extremely high hardness and low friction like DLC or a some of the PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) options.
I suppose its possible for the M159 Black Series which has a higher 8000 RPM redline, as titanium would lower the lifter mass pretty substantially. It would also justify the crazy price tag.
The only way I can see titanium working for the lifter material is if it had a coating applied with an extremely high hardness and low friction like DLC or a some of the PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) options.
I suppose its possible for the M159 Black Series which has a higher 8000 RPM redline, as titanium would lower the lifter mass pretty substantially. It would also justify the crazy price tag.
The coating would certainly help, but I think if they are titanium, it’s probably an alloy of Ti. Maybe 321 stainless?? 321 work hardens like a *******.
I still think lifter mass would have a minimal impact. What would really settle that for me would be seeing a car do a dyno run before and after the lifter swap with the same cams and maps.
If the mass has that much of an impact the engine should fall on its face when the heavier ones start to cause problems.
I will keep an open mind.
Lol. That would be quite something though- 321 stainless Ti alloy.
I know I wouldn’t be able to machine them at ~$30 each. Probably can’t even buy the material for that cheap.
I don’t buy crappy batteries anymore. I usually stick to interstate. Almost every vehicle I own took a battery this year.
A8= $225
S4=$170ish
F350= $184 x 2
VW=$165
Ive had it with batteries this year.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




Auto parts store battery is around Au$400
My battery is 7yrs old so I know I'm on borrowed time.
Still starts strong even after sitting for a week or so.
If I'm purposely leaving it sit for a while I set up the trickle charger.
Deka is a damn good battery. Just not available here. The black plastic in the cases is mostly recycled from (I used to know what but can’t remember). The reason I know this is because I used to work for the outfit that used to (or maybe still does) rebuild all of their plastics compounding/processing equipment.
Unless anything has changed, they were based out of PA.
Woah, high praise here that I’m not sure I’ve earned yet. I still need to follow through on my promises.
Its really not as bad as it sounds. The truck and the A8 are both antiques now, and the S4 is 16 years old. No payments there. Just repairs.
I’ve always said of old Audis, every single one of them comes with an unpaid $10,000 repair bill. Unless you can fix them yourself. I bought the A8 in 2013 with 107k for $3k and have put about $15k into it. The S4 I paid WAAAAY too much for, and it needs a damn laundry list of stuff.
With regard to my promises, I have been moderately successful at a recent machine shop auction, and on Monday I’ll be hauling home 10,000 pounds of old wartime American iron. I hope to be operational enough to start turning out some work by Feb sometime, and fully operational later on in the year, by appointment.
After all, I still have a full time job as a real machinist.
My car will likely be the first one to get the bulletproofed “KamiJusters.” I’m going to put my money where my mouth is and put them in my car to prove it.
Unless anything has changed, they were based out of PA.
Last edited by Phil1305; Jan 3, 2021 at 11:27 PM.
Im more of a traditional plate anode/cathode kind of guy. Never really run an AGM battery.
I used to drive a tow truck in the winter when I lived in New England, and my truck had Dekas. It always cranked over at 0 Frankenstein. Didn’t always start, but it cranked over.
Volvo design in old redblock got a 'splashguard' that collects oil that is pulled up from the clearance between lifter and head, and also collects oil from the bearings.
This makes the oil stay longer to get more chance to lubricate the buckets and also acts like a oilbath when engine is coldstarted.
They have NEVER had any problems with worn buckets.
The splashguard is cast into the head in the volvoengine, if watercutting some alu sheetmetal and bending it clever, it might get the same function when engine is running, not creating the seal to make the coldstart oilbath thou.
the rail at the red arrow.
Volvo design in old redblock got a 'splashguard' that collects oil that is pulled up from the clearance between lifter and head, and also collects oil from the bearings.
This makes the oil stay longer to get more chance to lubricate the buckets and also acts like a oilbath when engine is coldstarted.
They have NEVER had any problems with worn buckets.
The splashguard is cast into the head in the volvoengine, if watercutting some alu sheetmetal and bending it clever, it might get the same function when engine is running, not creating the seal to make the coldstart oilbath thou.
the rail at the red arrow.
VW did something similar with the old 8v which used the same lifters as the old Volvos. It’s probably why those old engines lasted a million miles.
VW did it to keep oil spray from going into the PCV I always thought. Most of them end up getting removed because they get deformed and degrade from the scary high oil temps present in those old cars.
I think the problem with the AMG heads is a lack of oil to begin with, but I definitely think it’s worth looking into seeing if an oil dam could be installed in the AMG head. I’ll have my valve covers off in a couple weeks to install a set of my camshaft phasers so, I’ll be taking some pics to that effect.
8v head
“Cam baffle”
The VW cam below is rusty because it’s been out of an engine for a decade or more. But same technology as the AMG heads.
Quarter million mile VW 8v camshaft. From one of my old VW engines.
This makes me miss my old MK2 Jetta. That thing was a tank with 200k on the clock.
Me too. Someday I’ll get my old GTI back on the road.
And IF deciding to make some oilsquirt, look at Ford Pinto engine, they´ve got a thin metal tube fed with oil and drilled holes.
Thats certainly the idea I was going with. I already know where I’m planning on tapping the oil supply from. It’s just a matter of getting it to fit under the VCs. They sit very tight to the head and don’t leave much room.
VW/Audi/Volvo use the same exact lifter in the early engines. Right down to the last dimension.
The only differences are cylinder spacing and valve spacing.
A sketch:







