Billet Camshaft PTG
Sharing these gems. From what I have seen there’s a Stage 1 NA grind good for ~35-40 whp. Stage 1 and 2 SC grind that can go up to 100whp on their 4L whipple set up over stock cams. And other custom grinds but pricing is as you’d expect. $$$$$$
Last edited by go team; Nov 8, 2020 at 10:14 AM.
oh and I didn’t get them... still broke
Last edited by go team; Nov 8, 2020 at 11:11 AM.
oh and I didn’t get them... still broke
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https://www.amazon.com/MHP-Custom-Bi.../dp/B00ESNA72G
8 grand but only $4.49 shipping. haha




Already got mine. Once my 507 project is complete, will post everything. (On going project for 1 year+ with delays in parts from different vendors and the additional parts i keep ordering👀 Will be a little more longer. Stay safe 🙏
For us across the pond, paying just over 8000 kangaroo dollars for cams and nearly 20,000 for a supercharger is a bit ridiculous. No doubt you get what you pay for, but my god. Sticker shock is real.
You guys are going to have to follow me on OnlyFans if I want to afford this stuff
For us across the pond, paying just over 8000 kangaroo dollars for cams and nearly 20,000 for a supercharger is a bit ridiculous. No doubt you get what you pay for, but my god. Sticker shock is real.
You guys are going to have to follow me on OnlyFans if I want to afford this stuff
For us across the pond, paying just over 8000 kangaroo dollars for cams and nearly 20,000 for a supercharger is a bit ridiculous. No doubt you get what you pay for, but my god. Sticker shock is real.
You guys are going to have to follow me on OnlyFans if I want to afford this stuff
Ive been looking at the possibility of getting a camshaft grinder, but am only in the research stage.
In my opinion, these vendors are of the mind that they can and will charge whatever the market will bear due to our lack of options when it comes to aftermarket parts. In other words, I think the price has little to do with the quality of the parts (not that they aren’t of good quality), but more to do with the exclusivity and the 3 point star.
One can gain ~2mm of lift and some duration, just raise the lifter the same amount the basecircle on the cam is grinded down.
Just modify the oilfeed for the lifter in the head some(make the feed hole oval the same amount as you raise the lifter.)
I would say the best mod this head needs is more lift, that way you can even still get a tidy idle.
The overlap and rameffect can be adjusted is software when mapping the engine?
Last edited by swedepat; Nov 12, 2020 at 02:57 PM.
One can gain ~2mm of lift and some duration, just raise the lifter the same amount the basecircle on the cam is grinded down.
Just modify the oilfeed for the lifter in the head some(make the feed hole oval the same amount as you raise the lifter.)
I would say the best mod this head needs is more lift, that way you can even still get a tidy idle.
The overlap and rameffect can be adjusted is software when mapping the engine?
There is a company on the west coast USA that regrinds them quite economically, relatively speaking.
I think a possibility here might be to use the solid (non hydraulic) lifters from the old school VW 8v, since Ive already proven that the dimensions on hydraulic diameter are identical. I would need to get my hands on a solid VW lifter to make sure everything would line up. If memory serves, hydraulic VW heads are easily converted to solid, so why not the M156.
You’d just need to take some time to shim them properly during initial setup.
maybe something to be offered in the future but for now a camshaft that works with the factory valve train that adds power is what we need. the billet cams that were posted should achieve this. my camshaft specs should achieve this as well for a lower cost. will keep you all posted as progress moves forward.
so between everyone here and their projects there’s plenty of options to be had
For people like me, who are across the pond and mechanically retarded. Id be more than happy to pay for cams/parts outright, without a core exchange policy. As i don't have the time/funds to pull my car apart, and be without it while replacements are on order.
On a side note, not to hijack the thread. But apart from the known cam adjuster and lifter issues with the M156 engine, are there any other weak points in the engine caused by parts made of cheese grade materials? My car is a 2011 pre FL, so headbolts aren't an issue.
For people like me, who are across the pond and mechanically retarded. Id be more than happy to pay for cams/parts outright, without a core exchange policy. As i don't have the time/funds to pull my car apart, and be without it while replacements are on order.
On a side note, not to hijack the thread. But apart from the known cam adjuster and lifter issues with the M156 engine, are there any other weak points in the engine caused by parts made of cheese grade materials? My car is a 2011 pre FL, so headbolts aren't an issue.
As far as I know, the only other known issues are related to the PCV system being in varying states of needing replacement all the time, the bottom plate of the intake manifold rots out, and fuel injectors can fail and wash down the cylinder walls.
Mechanically speaking though, the rest of the engine is relatively bulletproof.
Are you sure about your head bolts? The only way to know for sure is to pull a valve cover and look. I have heard tell of people with engine S/N’s on both sides of the cutoff to have fixed head bolts and problem head bolts.
My car is also a 2011 PFL and the engine S/N said I was in the clear and I was, but I still had a look to be sure.









