go team

Sharing these gems. From what I have seen there’s a Stage 1 NA grind good for ~35-40 whp. Stage 1 and 2 SC grind that can go up to 100whp on their 4L whipple set up over stock cams. And other custom grinds but pricing is as you’d expect. $$$$$$

BLKROKT

Uh. Where’d you get those.

go team

Germany, PTG is the company, into GT3 and other AMG development. From the looks of it they had dealers (resellers) like MHP that we’re given MAP (minimum advertised price) for them for resale. They don’t have any website and was told they didn’t need to have one with the volume they deal with, “it’s been harder to make a site then turbos for us”. Lol

oh and I didn’t get them... still broke

CheckOrHold

Where in Germany are they? And how do you find out about their products/services if they have no advertising or website?

Dr.Speedfellow

Wow, this is the first naturally aspirated cam option i have seen? Nice!!

Panzerbiscuit

Need to follow the right people on instagram 😉

go team

You don’t come to them they come to you lol

kidding aside, they’re offered by dealers only and from the looks of things it’s not every dealer.

#unicorn

bryhart

Are these the same? Similar?

8 grand but only $4.49 shipping. haha

skratch77

Ptg is legit kirklandhans is custom tuning my w205 c63
and making 1200 hp turbos for me when i gather the funds

go team

no wonder why usps is going under

the_indian_kid

Already got mine. Once my 507 project is complete, will post everything. (On going project for 1 year+ with delays in parts from different vendors and the additional parts i keep ordering👀 Will be a little more longer. Stay safe 🙏

hachiroku

pretty

Panzerbiscuit

$6k for NA cams and $13.3k for the 4L blower. Weistec stage 3 is $13.5k

For us across the pond, paying just over 8000 kangaroo dollars for cams and nearly 20,000 for a supercharger is a bit ridiculous. No doubt you get what you pay for, but my god. Sticker shock is real.
You guys are going to have to follow me on OnlyFans if I want to afford this stuff

swedepat

What are the numbers/data on the cams?

hachiroku

How much to subscribe to your OF? 😂

The Machinist

My feelings around here about the cost of aftermarket parts for these cars are well known.

Ive been looking at the possibility of getting a camshaft grinder, but am only in the research stage.

In my opinion, these vendors are of the mind that they can and will charge whatever the market will bear due to our lack of options when it comes to aftermarket parts. In other words, I think the price has little to do with the quality of the parts (not that they aren’t of good quality), but more to do with the exclusivity and the 3 point star.

hachiroku

don't worry...although not as fancy as billet cams...i'll have some cams or at least the spec available for the public in the near future.

swedepat

Why not regrind the oem ones?
One can gain ~2mm of lift and some duration, just raise the lifter the same amount the basecircle on the cam is grinded down.
Just modify the oilfeed for the lifter in the head some(make the feed hole oval the same amount as you raise the lifter.)

I would say the best mod this head needs is more lift, that way you can even still get a tidy idle.
The overlap and rameffect can be adjusted is software when mapping the engine?

The Machinist

There is a company on the west coast USA that regrinds them quite economically, relatively speaking.

I think a possibility here might be to use the solid (non hydraulic) lifters from the old school VW 8v, since Ive already proven that the dimensions on hydraulic diameter are identical. I would need to get my hands on a solid VW lifter to make sure everything would line up. If memory serves, hydraulic VW heads are easily converted to solid, so why not the M156.

You’d just need to take some time to shim them properly during initial setup.

hachiroku

more lift than the little additional we have to work with will require upgraded valve springs and retainers. this would runs easily into the 2-3k price range for dual valve springs and retainers.

maybe something to be offered in the future but for now a camshaft that works with the factory valve train that adds power is what we need. the billet cams that were posted should achieve this. my camshaft specs should achieve this as well for a lower cost. will keep you all posted as progress moves forward.

go team

I’m trying another coating on the OEM cams as a personal project since the first coating cracked the mfer. The reality is I’m happy with the engine but not happy with its reliability. Not chasing for crazy supercharged goodness... at this time.
so between everyone here and their projects there’s plenty of options to be had

Panzerbiscuit

Id be happy to pay for a set of aftermarket cams that are more reliable than OEM, even if that "reliability" comes from the fact that they are made of a stronger/more wear resistant material. Any potential performance gains would be secondary to me personally(although very welcome). If i can support a member of the forum, thats even better!

For people like me, who are across the pond and mechanically retarded. Id be more than happy to pay for cams/parts outright, without a core exchange policy. As i don't have the time/funds to pull my car apart, and be without it while replacements are on order.

On a side note, not to hijack the thread. But apart from the known cam adjuster and lifter issues with the M156 engine, are there any other weak points in the engine caused by parts made of cheese grade materials? My car is a 2011 pre FL, so headbolts aren't an issue.

The Machinist

I have found Tasos Moschatos’s YouTube channel to be useful with my questions like this.

As far as I know, the only other known issues are related to the PCV system being in varying states of needing replacement all the time, the bottom plate of the intake manifold rots out, and fuel injectors can fail and wash down the cylinder walls.

Mechanically speaking though, the rest of the engine is relatively bulletproof.

Are you sure about your head bolts? The only way to know for sure is to pull a valve cover and look. I have heard tell of people with engine S/N’s on both sides of the cutoff to have fixed head bolts and problem head bolts.

My car is also a 2011 PFL and the engine S/N said I was in the clear and I was, but I still had a look to be sure.

go team

gofundme page to make that happen ?

The Machinist

I never bothered with OF or go fund me because I didn’t have much luck on the street corner, so I gave up. Figured no one was interested.