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Hello Team,
I have been working my way through the relatively common “EBV, ABS, ESP inoperative see owners manual problem” in my 2009 C63. I pulled codes of 5001, 5945, 5944. They can be cleared but come back after 20km/h speed. I pulled the plug and cleaned the connector and tried again with no luck.
I then thought to calibrate the valves in calibration settings to see if that could help. However in this process it started, but stopped during the operation and went back to the previous screen. I now don’t have 5001 etc codes, but 5069 & 5981 Fault status during Valve calibration. Good thing is that I have power steering back, however it hasn’t solved main problem.
I guess it is now time to replace unit, but is it just the module or the module and ABS pump. I can’t work out from threads I have read exactly what people are replacing. Or if there are anymore suggestions.
Thanks, the C63 is a new purchase and it is a great car. Will be around this forum a bit more!
Original Codes which I believe to be the main problrm Codes after failed calibration
Know idea on your codes but my own ongoing ABS/ESP issues were solved by a repair of the electronic control module component. I suspect the issue is "common" as the electronics in the control module part get fried by the proximity to the exhaust.
Know idea on your codes but my own ongoing ABS/ESP issues were solved by a repair of the electronic control module component. I suspect the issue is "common" as the electronics in the control module part get fried by the proximity to the exhaust.
I had this exact issue as well. It would come and go randomly. Mine stopped coming back after I changed the alternator that died. I know low voltage causes a lot of these modules to crap out. I’d do a load test on your battery and alternator just in case.
I had to change out the ESP Module. Tried all wheel speed sensors first, didn't work. My friend works in service at Mercedes benz, and he let me order my own OEM part see below - for $500 cheaper than my particular dealer was selling the part for. This helped, and then I was just charged 1 hour of labor for install and coding. (the part is plug in play basically just needs to be coded , but some dealers still charge 3 hours of labor)
12 C63BS Magno Alanite Grey, 25 X5 Msport, 08 BMW E93, Ducati Hyper 698
You can get the electronics fixed for 200-300 USD but not sure if you can find a local place, you can ship to the Sydney for repair but then you will be down for however long shipping takes back and forth http://australianecurepair.com.au/se...epair-service/
The main problem is garbage solder joints on the board. They're so bad I'm surprised it even works. Than coupled with being inches away from an exhaust header with a tiny heatshield, vibrations etc is inevitable for failure.
The repair is a better option over going new since they will replace faulty components and fix all those solder joints.
I know a handful of people here in Canada who have used https://xemodex.com/ and they are setup for US and International. Lifetime warranty on the repair as well.
Thanks for the help. I have found a place in New Zealand that can do it for similar prices to what you all have mentioned. Thanks for giving me a steer on that.
The unit is close to the engine, do you know if you have to remove the whole pump to have enough room to get the module off, or can you slip the module off if you remove the heat shield close to the engine?
Thanks,
Thanks for the help. I have found a place in New Zealand that can do it for similar prices to what you all have mentioned. Thanks for giving me a steer on that.
The unit is close to the engine, do you know if you have to remove the whole pump to have enough room to get the module off, or can you slip the module off if you remove the heat shield close to the engine?
Thanks,
Picture below of my own tool as per my thread link. Qtr inch ratchet drive spanner with an impact drive "hex" bit of the right length inserted (needs to be between 50 and 70mm long from memory). You could also use an ultra small 1/4 drive ratchet rather than a spanner but I found the flat sided spanner a better fit. A total of 4 small bolts. The lower 2 are inset and out of sight.
The space is seriously tight.
No need to remove the pump which would likely entail undoing lines and more issues.
By the way Sydney was where I sent mine and it was a couple of day turnaround.
Thanks everyone for all the help. This is a new C63 to me and loving it so far (even with this hickup). I wanted a non turbo, big engine Mercedes prior to them all going and has met all expectations.
I will let you know how repair goes. It comes out this weekend and being sent down for repair.
Cheers,
Hi mates,
I have similar situation with Mercedes W204 c220CDI. After repair ABS car gets thisdtc: 5069 about valves.
Car works perfect but gets this dtc. I´m sure abs is ok. Can anyone help me how to fix this situation please?
Thanks a lot
From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
Originally Posted by alclot
Hi mates,
I have similar situation with Mercedes W204 c220CDI. After repair ABS car gets thisdtc: 5069 about valves.
Car works perfect but gets this dtc. I´m sure abs is ok. Can anyone help me how to fix this situation please?
Thanks a lot
Hi mate,
Perhaps you should also post your question on the C Class W204 forum page: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w204-83/ you'll probably get more responses. Just my 2p
Thanks for the help. I have found a place in New Zealand that can do it for similar prices to what you all have mentioned. Thanks for giving me a steer on that.
The unit is close to the engine, do you know if you have to remove the whole pump to have enough room to get the module off, or can you slip the module off if you remove the heat shield close to the engine?
Thanks,
hey bro where did you get it done at and aswell as did u buy the part prior to taking it in?
I had to change out the ESP Module. Tried all wheel speed sensors first, didn't work. My friend works in service at Mercedes benz, and he let me order my own OEM part see below - for $500 cheaper than my particular dealer was selling the part for. This helped, and then I was just charged 1 hour of labor for install and coding. (the part is plug in play basically just needs to be coded , but some dealers still charge 3 hours of labor)
I did mine at GET Electronics in Christchurch for I think around NZ$550-$650 if I remember correctly. However I had another failure of it after 18monhts or so and it was unrepairable second time around. I purchased a secondhand one from a newer car and re Vinned to the car. Worked well since. GET were good to deal with however.
Mercedes new was NZ$3800 just for the part, not install or coding!
Hello Team,
I have been working my way through the relatively common “EBV, ABS, ESP inoperative see owners manual problem” in my 2009 C63. I pulled codes of 5001, 5945, 5944. They can be cleared but come back after 20km/h speed. I pulled the plug and cleaned the connector and tried again with no luck.
I then thought to calibrate the valves in calibration settings to see if that could help. However in this process it started, but stopped during the operation and went back to the previous screen. I now don’t have 5001 etc codes, but 5069 & 5981 Fault status during Valve calibration. Good thing is that I have power steering back, however it hasn’t solved main problem.
I guess it is now time to replace unit, but is it just the module or the module and ABS pump. I can’t work out from threads I have read exactly what people are replacing. Or if there are anymore suggestions.
Thanks, the C63 is a new purchase and it is a great car. Will be around this forum a bit more!
Original Codes which I believe to be the main problrm Codes after failed calibration
Hi did you manage to solve this issue. Kindly advise
I had to change out the ESP Module. Tried all wheel speed sensors first, didn't work. My friend works in service at Mercedes benz, and he let me order my own OEM part see below - for $500 cheaper than my particular dealer was selling the part for. This helped, and then I was just charged 1 hour of labor for install and coding. (the part is plug in play basically just needs to be coded , but some dealers still charge 3 hours of labor)
This repair in total cost me $1050 ... I took the best route possible, most people on this forum ended up paying $1800-$2000 for part and labor.
hi. Just have a couple of questions. I’ve ordered a abs control unit and merc have quoted me for 3 hours of work. Instal, bleeding and coding. My question is the hydraulic pump is connected up and only the control unit is taken off. So does it need bleeding too once the control unit is installed? And do you only get one go when coding?
For those who replaced the electronic part with a used one, did you use a different part number? And did it work after recoding?
Hi. Another part number won’t work. And finding the same used part is a needle in a haystack. I tried and couldn’t find one anywhere and ended up buying it new from Mercedes. If you haven’t tried already there are companies who can refurbish them. Works out a lot cheaper
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