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2000 Acura NSX, 2012 C63 P31 (gone and not forgotten), 2015 C63 507
Searched: Need quality lug bolts
Help please
I bought a spacer and lug kit. Been on the car 6-8 months. Last night decided to repaint the clear coat on the calipers.
In putting the wheel back on, I sheared off TWO Lugs.. guess I don't know my own strength!
😜
Is there is differece in quality on these? Are they not all the same metal ?
Does anyone have a recommendation to get quality ones for a decent price in black before I just get a set on Amazon.
Local reputable performance tire shop (they do high perf. Cars) says they are all the same. Wanted other opinions
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
I don’t know the answer to your question, but a) I’d make sure I was using a torque wrench because that looks like too much force was used, and b) changing to studs will make your life better.
2000 Acura NSX, 2012 C63 P31 (gone and not forgotten), 2015 C63 507
Originally Posted by BLKROKT
I don’t know the answer to your question, but a) I’d make sure I was using a torque wrench because that looks like too much force was used, and b) changing to studs will make your life better.
I was using a torque wrench set to 96 ft lbs. With a 2.5" extension ( to get me off the wheel)
Maybe that's a poor choice of words, but I'm in Atlanta. And Butler Tire is known for handling performance wheel/tire setups got cats from RollsRoyce to Ferrari.
OE isn't an option bc I need them longer due to spacers
11’ C63 AMG; D2 Audi A8; 15’ Golf TDi; 97’ F350PSD; B6 Audi S4; D1 Audi V8; A2 VW GTi
Originally Posted by hachiroku
i may have a connection to titanium ones if you're interested.
I am not talking trash on titanium fasteners, but just so all of the info is out there -contrary to popular belief, Titanium is not stronger than a quality steel alloy, as a matter of fact, it’s tensile strength is less than that of a regular grade 8 bolt.
The only circumstances in which titanium will outperform steel is in very high heat applications( think jet engine combustors ).
Other reasons for using titanium fasteners are to reduce weight and spend money. That’s about it.
A quality set of studs from a company like ARP is the way to go.
Your wheel bolts need to be of the proper hardness grade. Unless you can see the "10.9" marking on the bolt heads, do NOT put them on the car. There are quality wheel bolt manufacturers like RAD and H&R (there are others too - if you're in the USA, also see what Otis offers), and then there's the cheap garbage that is sold on eBay (and Amazon).
And, you said you were running spacers. How deep and were they hub-centric with a METAL flange to support the wheel? The wheel bolts are designed to provide just the clamping force, not support the entire weight of the entire car which may have been the case here.
If Otis can't help ya I dont know who can. I sheared all 5 lug bolts doing pulls and I switched to theirs and been smooth sailing since. They have theextended shaft ones as well. I know some due to teh ebrake got a few mm longer and then cut to size cause they would rub e brake.
I am not talking trash on titanium fasteners, but just so all of the info is out there -contrary to popular belief, Titanium is not stronger than a quality steel alloy, as a matter of fact, it’s tensile strength is less than that of a regular grade 8 bolt.
The only circumstances in which titanium will outperform steel is in very high heat applications( think jet engine combustors ).
Other reasons for using titanium fasteners are to reduce weight and spend money. That’s about it.
A quality set of studs from a company like ARP is the way to go.
I would agree to steer clear of titanium lug bolts.
I have a set from ECS tuning I bought thinking its stronger and lighter. 2nd time I swapped them out and dropped a few, beginning threads were basically destroyed.
2000 Acura NSX, 2012 C63 P31 (gone and not forgotten), 2015 C63 507
Thank you to everyone !
Truly good info
I contacted the original supplier and they did warranty me a whole new set of 20 lugs for $20 in shipping. (They offered to just send 2 for the cost of $5 or 20 new ones powdercoated for $20 including shipping.... seeing as how I can **** $20 for other things I went ahead and did it.
But..... I'm not going to put them on. Going to save them for insurance in case ever needed so I'm not limping on less lugs like I just had to.
Next, I emailed OTIS, didn't get a response. so I called tonight on my way home. VERY FRIENDLY.
Going to order a set tonight and use these . They will be the 10.9 grade steel.
Only thing I was not sure of was the R# And they clarified that for us it's R14 for OEM wheels.
So in case anyone searches and get this thread, for OEM wheels you need
M14 x 1.5 R14 40mm lugs to use with spacers.
Preferably 10.9 grade steel.
Preferably made by RAD, H&R Or Farad
For what it's worth I have 10mm in the rear and 12mm front (or maybe the opposite) but they aren't even
If you're using the 10 mm spacers on the rear, you will very likely need to cut off 2-3 mm from the 10 bolts that you'll be using for the rear wheels as they are very likely going to be hitting the parking brake mechanism. Longer bolts on the front are not a problem.
What wheels specs are you using with those spacers?
I think BLKROKT and Jasonoff hit the nail on the head with using studs instead of bolts especially since your going to use spacers.
Would avoid the Titan Cold Forged Alloy Steel Race nuts though.
I second the motor sports hardware site. You can email them for any questions and whoever responded to me even gave me a discount at the time! Changing to studs was a real time saver by not only putting the wheels on, but also you can use the extended ones with or without spacers.
2000 Acura NSX, 2012 C63 P31 (gone and not forgotten), 2015 C63 507
Originally Posted by magictoilet
I second the motor sports hardware site. You can email them for any questions and whoever responded to me even gave me a discount at the time! Changing to studs was a real time saver by not only putting the wheels on, but also you can use the extended ones with or without spacers.
Ugh.
I already ordered the lugs with locks
with the studs, do you just thread them into the hole like a bolt until they hit the center part that's not threaded?
I may be able to stop it from shipping tomorrow AM bc they didn't go out today.
Ugh.
do you just thread them into the hole like a bolt until they hit the center part that's not threaded?
Yes basically that easy.
Put some medium locktite on the thread then just screw in until it stops and torque to specs of the studs.
I use studs an can also vouch about how easy it is to mount wheels especially in low light or night situations and when using spacers as I did with my old 18's.
Because I use lock/lug bolts I run 4 studs and the one lock lug on each corner.
Mines only for street use.
FWIW, studs with open-end lug nuts are defintely preferred for track applications and/or quick wheel changes, but for street use when you're only changing the wheels once a year it doesn't really make a difference. If you want to help yourself in lining up the holes on the spacers and the wheel, get yourself one of these for $7:
2000 Acura NSX, 2012 C63 P31 (gone and not forgotten), 2015 C63 507
UPDATE:
Spoke with Phil at OTISLA again this morning, he advised the same thing below. He could have made more money by upselling me into studs and lugs but advised me to stick to what I had previously decided and repeatedly mentioned that with 10.9-grade steel vs other stuff on the market I won't have to worry about snapping another one off again.
He said that for frequent removal and reinstall then yes studs with nuts, but otherwise, the bolts were a great option and would look cleaner without open-ended lugs, etc.
Regarding the link below, I am assuming you put it on, use it to align the wheel then remove it by hand after 4 other bolts are on?
^ yes. Audi's come with a plastic one from the factory in the tool bag...not super durable but does help with alignment. another thought is to run 1 stud and nut per wheel for those who worry about those things coming loose while still allowing for ease of wheel changes. won't look super pretty but function over fashion.
UPDATE:
Spoke with Phil at OTISLA again this morning, he advised the same thing below. He could have made more money by upselling me into studs and lugs but advised me to stick to what I had previously decided and repeatedly mentioned that with 10.9-grade steel vs other stuff on the market I won't have to worry about snapping another one off again.
He said that for frequent removal and reinstall then yes studs with nuts, but otherwise, the bolts were a great option and would look cleaner without open-ended lugs, etc.
Regarding the link below, I am assuming you put it on, use it to align the wheel then remove it by hand after 4 other bolts are on?
Yup - you screw it in by hand, put on the spacer, put on the wheel, put in one or two wheel bolts by hand and then unscrew the guide pin. It just makes lining up the holes in the spacer and the wheel easy, and the spacer won't fall off while you're trying to put on the wheel.
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