Engine oil additives....I know I know
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W212 E63 2015
Engine oil additives....I know I know
2 part question. Moderate to cool climate of the UK. Pick a number and a letter:
1. Just straight 5w40
2. Add ceratec
3. Add a high ZDDP additive like Redline break in.
A. Change every 5k miles
B Change every 7.5k miles
C. Change every 10k miles
1. Just straight 5w40
2. Add ceratec
3. Add a high ZDDP additive like Redline break in.
A. Change every 5k miles
B Change every 7.5k miles
C. Change every 10k miles
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12 C63BS Magno Alanite Grey, 25 X5 Msport, 08 BMW E93, Ducati Hyper 698
1A or 2A, there probably is no need for additives if you use a good quality 5w40 and change it every 5k if an additive makes you feel better run ceratec every 4th oil change and mos2 in the 3 in between.
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W212 E63 2015
I know we don't NEED to but I suspect manufacturers would put more ZDDP in their oils if it wasn't for environmental regulations. With cam and lifter wear being one of the bigger issues these engines face, doesn't it seem prudent to do use some additive?
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From: Sweden
2011 C63 AMG, 589hp
Throw ceratec and mos2 in the bin.....
Use a good qualityoil designed for old flat tappet v8´s(added zddp) and change it more often.
And if not beeing able to find correct oil, use redline or similar additive with concentrated zddp.
And!
final input, log your oiltemps, different oils create different oiltemps.
When i bought my c63 it had castrol edge 0w-40 and oiltemp was around 102-104c(it went up to 108c when pushing it) when watertemp was ~92c
I changed it immediately(allergic to castrol) to Fuchs(Silkolene) 5w-40 titan and oiltemp dropped to 96-98 degree at same watertemp. it seldom climbs above 100c.
Use a good qualityoil designed for old flat tappet v8´s(added zddp) and change it more often.
And if not beeing able to find correct oil, use redline or similar additive with concentrated zddp.
And!
final input, log your oiltemps, different oils create different oiltemps.
When i bought my c63 it had castrol edge 0w-40 and oiltemp was around 102-104c(it went up to 108c when pushing it) when watertemp was ~92c
I changed it immediately(allergic to castrol) to Fuchs(Silkolene) 5w-40 titan and oiltemp dropped to 96-98 degree at same watertemp. it seldom climbs above 100c.
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12 C63BS Magno Alanite Grey, 25 X5 Msport, 08 BMW E93, Ducati Hyper 698
I am just saying frequent oil changes with good oil should be your minimum, additives are your choice, the manual says no additives but personally I run Ceretec and MOS2 in mine as I had a bit of wear after 30k miles and replaced my cams and lifters and have been running additives since.
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From: Bondi Beach , Australia
2013 W204 C63 AMG P31 Estate wagon
ZDDP is what flat tappet cam/Lifters need but too much blocks up and destroys Catalytic converters.
If you live where Cats aren't needed then adding could be a good thing.
Seeing as cats are needed here in Australia I'll stay with Ceratec/Mos2 regime with my oil changes.
If you live where Cats aren't needed then adding could be a good thing.
Seeing as cats are needed here in Australia I'll stay with Ceratec/Mos2 regime with my oil changes.
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From: Sweden
2011 C63 AMG, 589hp
That is an overrated problem as modern engines doesn´t drink much oil at all.
And thereby not going out in the exhaust as an old chevy 262cui
And thereby not going out in the exhaust as an old chevy 262cui
Last edited by swedepat; Jun 3, 2021 at 02:07 AM.
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From: Whitehouse Station, NJ
2012 C63 P31 Sedan
This is just an abstract, but it seems there is data suggesting that MOS2 can indeed reduce wear, possibly even superior to that of ZDDP:
https://www.sciencedirect.com/scienc...30X?via%3Dihub
All that said, the concentration of MOS2 by weight is likely a very important factor, so that's something to consider.
https://www.sciencedirect.com/scienc...30X?via%3Dihub
All that said, the concentration of MOS2 by weight is likely a very important factor, so that's something to consider.
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From: Whitehouse Station, NJ
2012 C63 P31 Sedan
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W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, Taycan GTS Sport Turismo, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars
1A. I really don't understand the whole additive thing and why ordinary laypeople think they know better than the engineers and tribologists who design the engines and lubricants. Engine oil and the additives it contains has some serious science behind it to make it chemically balanced. Whatever you put in afterwards is more likely to cause harm than good. I mean, you don't add your own grape juice, pepper and sugar to a bottle of Chateau Margaux to make it "better"... so why do it to engine oil?
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From: 'Merica
'04 E55 (Gone but not forgotten), '13 C63 P31 (RIP), another '13 C63 PP
1A. I really don't understand the whole additive thing and why ordinary laypeople think they know better than the engineers and tribologists who design the engines and lubricants. Engine oil and the additives it contains has some serious science behind it to make it chemically balanced. Whatever you put in afterwards is more likely to cause harm than good. I mean, you don't add your own grape juice, pepper and sugar to a bottle of Chateau Margaux to make it "better"... so why do it to engine oil?
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From: The Great White North
W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, Taycan GTS Sport Turismo, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars
If you are racing the car, there are racing oils that are already manufactured and blended so that they provide maximum protection against shear and mechanical wear at hot temperatures but have little to no detergents and not additives to protect against the oil turning acidic from moisture buildup. Then there are oils that are more suitable for daily driving and longer OCIs where you are going to get more detergents and more SAPS or equivalent additives to neutralize acids in the crank case, at the expense of ultimate mechanical protection. Either way, a fair bit of science goes into them and what makes one oil better than another for a particular application. But yes, changing the oil more frequently simply means that you have more protection because it hasn't sheared, it has fewer solid bits (like soot) to keep away for cylinder walls, it has less moisture and thus has not turned acidic, and has not been as diluted.
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C63 AMG
use to run Fuchs titan 5/40. Switched to liquimoly high tech 5/40 and ceratec dose every other oil change. Haven’t looked back since. Tappet noise is minimal.
note mos2 is the additive In liquimoly molygen.
note mos2 is the additive In liquimoly molygen.
Throw ceratec and mos2 in the bin.....
Use a good qualityoil designed for old flat tappet v8´s(added zddp) and change it more often.
And if not beeing able to find correct oil, use redline or similar additive with concentrated zddp.
And!
final input, log your oiltemps, different oils create different oiltemps.
When i bought my c63 it had castrol edge 0w-40 and oiltemp was around 102-104c(it went up to 108c when pushing it) when watertemp was ~92c
I changed it immediately(allergic to castrol) to Fuchs(Silkolene) 5w-40 titan and oiltemp dropped to 96-98 degree at same watertemp. it seldom climbs above 100c.
Use a good qualityoil designed for old flat tappet v8´s(added zddp) and change it more often.
And if not beeing able to find correct oil, use redline or similar additive with concentrated zddp.
And!
final input, log your oiltemps, different oils create different oiltemps.
When i bought my c63 it had castrol edge 0w-40 and oiltemp was around 102-104c(it went up to 108c when pushing it) when watertemp was ~92c
I changed it immediately(allergic to castrol) to Fuchs(Silkolene) 5w-40 titan and oiltemp dropped to 96-98 degree at same watertemp. it seldom climbs above 100c.
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From: The Great White North
W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, Taycan GTS Sport Turismo, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars
The aftermarket MoS2 and Ceratec additives contain SOLID particles. Personally, that's the last thing I'd want floating around in my engine oil.
MoS2 used to be the additive in all Liquimoly oils, but technology has moved on since and they are now using better friction modifiers which is why the "regular" LiquMoly (Leichtlauf) no longer contains any molybdenum. The (unapproved) Molygen oil still has some molybdenum, but AFAIK the moly formulation is liquid instead of the MoS2 chunks that you get in the additive.
MoS2 used to be the additive in all Liquimoly oils, but technology has moved on since and they are now using better friction modifiers which is why the "regular" LiquMoly (Leichtlauf) no longer contains any molybdenum. The (unapproved) Molygen oil still has some molybdenum, but AFAIK the moly formulation is liquid instead of the MoS2 chunks that you get in the additive.
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From: Sweden
2011 C63 AMG, 589hp
Funny thing, mine are quite also, maybe due to my tightchange intervals.
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2012 C63, GL63, 1989 300CE
Not sure where to put this datapoint! I had run ceratec every 50k and found it in my catch can (dissociated ceramic slush mixed with oil). Did an oil flush and skipped ceratec and the catch can was now filled with more “blow by-looking” filtrates, like a watery oily mix. In hindsight I should have analyzed the filtrate but I’m also not running ceratec again.
The ceratec perhaps has a lower boiling point and ends up getting kicked by the PCV into manifold much easier. I wouldn’t want to find the ceramic additive in my manifold regardless.
The geek in me looked up the data sheets of ceratec so:
Flash point (lowest temp that vapours ignite) is >100C and the boiling point is conveniently not determined. LINK
The ceratec perhaps has a lower boiling point and ends up getting kicked by the PCV into manifold much easier. I wouldn’t want to find the ceramic additive in my manifold regardless.
The geek in me looked up the data sheets of ceratec so:
Flash point (lowest temp that vapours ignite) is >100C and the boiling point is conveniently not determined. LINK
Last edited by go team; Jun 8, 2021 at 06:24 PM.
