Abrupt Acceleration / Coming to a Stop / Rough Idle
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2013 Mercedes C63 AMG
Abrupt Acceleration / Coming to a Stop / Rough Idle
2013 Mercedes C63 AMG MCT 55k miles
Are you having any of these issues, are any of them related to you, then read on. Will this help you fix your problem, perhaps it might.
Several months ago when I started modding my 2013 FLC63, MBH full setup, bigger injectors, etc… the usual bolt on stuff. At the time I started my tuning venture with Barry.
With no warning, and to this day, no CEL or any codes whatsoever. Bummer, right? Most people would turn around and blame their tuner, which at no point did I ever think of even brining it up. I just knew something was wrong with my car. (I owe Barry a lengthy 5 star review, those of you who have not had the pleasure, Barry is amazing).
Anyways,
I started to feel rough idle.
Not only that, but leaving off the line the car would jerk back and forth, as if it’s gasping for air. Best way to explain it is me learning how to drive a stick shift at 14 year old.
2-1 shift, f*** your neck
2-1 shift rolling to a stop felt like someone rear ending you, again, f*** your neck
2-1 shift rolling to a stop then getting back on it, well f*** your neck again
———————CONTINUED————————
I spent nearly $4-5k doing the following, like any mechanic which I’m not, it was time to trouble shoot.
We did a smoke test which didn’t show any leaks whatsoever.
At first I replaced the injectors, sparks and filters… little to no help.
Second was engine mounts and transmission mount, little to no help.
Then we took apart the IM and replaced the IM gasket, IM TB plate and the PCV valve. This helped, but the problem still persisted.
Regular boxes vs ROW boxes showed no difference,
We then replaced all the belts and pullies, no difference. (Which was expected).
At this point I’m just scratching my head. The car is a monster under WOT, but the 2-1, rough idle, abrupt acceleration from a dead atop, and coming to a stop or getting back on it was hell..
SO WHAT WAS MY FIX???
We do another smoke test and we see a very small, tiny leak on the back of the IM, where the brake booster line connects.
I ordered a new line, replaced it and car was 90% better. My heart finally starting beating at a regular pace again. Few days go by and the symptoms are back…. So what happened next?
Thanks to Kim S (IG: 63amgeek) saw my post on IG regarding the brake booster line and commented if I had replaced the O ring.
Thanks to Kim S, he provided me with part numbers for the O ring and the cap, which arrived today.
I took the car apart right away, replaced the O ring and the cap and now I’m here typing to tell you that this was my problem all along. A freaking O ring.
Yeap, **** me. I’m just happy to have finally narrowed it down.
Are you having any of these issues, are any of them related to you, then read on. Will this help you fix your problem, perhaps it might.
Several months ago when I started modding my 2013 FLC63, MBH full setup, bigger injectors, etc… the usual bolt on stuff. At the time I started my tuning venture with Barry.
With no warning, and to this day, no CEL or any codes whatsoever. Bummer, right? Most people would turn around and blame their tuner, which at no point did I ever think of even brining it up. I just knew something was wrong with my car. (I owe Barry a lengthy 5 star review, those of you who have not had the pleasure, Barry is amazing).
Anyways,
I started to feel rough idle.
Not only that, but leaving off the line the car would jerk back and forth, as if it’s gasping for air. Best way to explain it is me learning how to drive a stick shift at 14 year old.
2-1 shift, f*** your neck
2-1 shift rolling to a stop felt like someone rear ending you, again, f*** your neck
2-1 shift rolling to a stop then getting back on it, well f*** your neck again
———————CONTINUED————————
I spent nearly $4-5k doing the following, like any mechanic which I’m not, it was time to trouble shoot.
We did a smoke test which didn’t show any leaks whatsoever.
At first I replaced the injectors, sparks and filters… little to no help.
Second was engine mounts and transmission mount, little to no help.
Then we took apart the IM and replaced the IM gasket, IM TB plate and the PCV valve. This helped, but the problem still persisted.
Regular boxes vs ROW boxes showed no difference,
We then replaced all the belts and pullies, no difference. (Which was expected).
At this point I’m just scratching my head. The car is a monster under WOT, but the 2-1, rough idle, abrupt acceleration from a dead atop, and coming to a stop or getting back on it was hell..
SO WHAT WAS MY FIX???
We do another smoke test and we see a very small, tiny leak on the back of the IM, where the brake booster line connects.
I ordered a new line, replaced it and car was 90% better. My heart finally starting beating at a regular pace again. Few days go by and the symptoms are back…. So what happened next?
Thanks to Kim S (IG: 63amgeek) saw my post on IG regarding the brake booster line and commented if I had replaced the O ring.
Thanks to Kim S, he provided me with part numbers for the O ring and the cap, which arrived today.
I took the car apart right away, replaced the O ring and the cap and now I’m here typing to tell you that this was my problem all along. A freaking O ring.
Yeap, **** me. I’m just happy to have finally narrowed it down.
The following users liked this post:
PP-PRO_C63 (05-09-2024)
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PP-PRO_C63 (05-09-2024)
#4
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
Looks like a $1 part fixed the problem. What a bummer but glad you found the source problem
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2013 Mercedes C63 AMG
The red piece comes out easily once the cap is off, it can be removed by hand.
The O ring also comes out easily, you will need a pick tool for that.
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#6
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2013 W204 C63 AMG P31 Estate wagon
The black cap with the tabs simply pops off with a prying tool. Takes no effort so be careful not to apply too much pressure. (The squeeze “tabs” are design for when inserting the brake booster line)
The red piece comes out easily once the cap is off, it can be removed by hand.
The O ring also comes out easily, you will need a pick tool for that.
The red piece comes out easily once the cap is off, it can be removed by hand.
The O ring also comes out easily, you will need a pick tool for that.
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Slow_c63 (01-12-2022)
#7
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2013 Mercedes C63 AMG
All praise goes to Kim S (IG: 63amgeek) I’m just passing on the good stuff. I didn’t even know about these part numbers and that they were available. Mercedes sure as hell wouldn’t tell you, and I honestly don’t think they know about it either. (Speaking for 99% of people who represent Mercedes)
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#8
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All praise goes to Kim S (IG: 63amgeek) I’m just passing on the good stuff. I didn’t even know about these part numbers and that they were available. Mercedes sure as hell wouldn’t tell you, and I honestly don’t think they know about it either. (Speaking for 99% of people who represent Mercedes)
Lets not forget to Honor Tasos though - he is the real hero here. If it wasnt for him nobody knew anything about these engines
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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