After new air boxes, car starts runs for 3 seconds then dies
#1
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After new air boxes, car starts runs for 3 seconds then dies
I installed carbon fiber ROW style air boxes for decor. They have the same inlet as ROW boxes which I already had on.
Yes they are just cosmetic but that's what my car is for. I don't track it.
Took out AFE filters and washed them like usual, and when I put them back in, I swapped to new CD airboxes.
I'm wondering what could have gone wrong
1) I was SUPER careful and sensitive with the MAF sensors.
2) the new boxes don't use clips but rather an Alllen screw to hold everything together, and yes used the same original rubber gasket to seal
-Any suggestions as to what's wrong?
-Is it possible the MAF sensors are Right and left? (I already checked to make sure they aren't upside down)
-is it possibly bc of the extra air space in the airbox where my hand is?
Yes they are just cosmetic but that's what my car is for. I don't track it.
Took out AFE filters and washed them like usual, and when I put them back in, I swapped to new CD airboxes.
I'm wondering what could have gone wrong
1) I was SUPER careful and sensitive with the MAF sensors.
2) the new boxes don't use clips but rather an Alllen screw to hold everything together, and yes used the same original rubber gasket to seal
-Any suggestions as to what's wrong?
-Is it possible the MAF sensors are Right and left? (I already checked to make sure they aren't upside down)
-is it possibly bc of the extra air space in the airbox where my hand is?
Last edited by 95gsrturbo; 12-06-2022 at 11:43 PM.
#2
Are those JL Motoring's boxes with a "custom" AMG badge, or did it come that way?
Those really look good!
Asking the Dumb question, but have you tried restoring back the OE airboxes?
Changing these things out is generally pretty straightforward, all plug & play, and no coding/adaptations required.
As long as there's a good seal around the box the car shouldn't care and the few extra cubic inches where your fingers were shouldn't make any appreciable difference.
So, in my mind, the easiest test is to go back to stock and see if anything got damaged in the process (MAF sensors).
Cheers,
Those really look good!
Asking the Dumb question, but have you tried restoring back the OE airboxes?
Changing these things out is generally pretty straightforward, all plug & play, and no coding/adaptations required.
As long as there's a good seal around the box the car shouldn't care and the few extra cubic inches where your fingers were shouldn't make any appreciable difference.
So, in my mind, the easiest test is to go back to stock and see if anything got damaged in the process (MAF sensors).
Cheers,
#3
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Thread Starter
That's what I did tonight
Have a small kid going to school tomorrow so I don't want to wake him or the whole neighborhood.
I'll check tomorrow and hope that everything runs fine as I'll need a car
Then try again later
I'm 99% sure there was a total seal
I'm 100% sure I had the MAFs installed correctly bc I triple checked them
I was also super careful when removing and reinstalling them the only thing that I have a question with is that I may have clamps down on them too tightly with the Allen screw
Have a small kid going to school tomorrow so I don't want to wake him or the whole neighborhood.
I'll check tomorrow and hope that everything runs fine as I'll need a car
Then try again later
I'm 99% sure there was a total seal
I'm 100% sure I had the MAFs installed correctly bc I triple checked them
I was also super careful when removing and reinstalling them the only thing that I have a question with is that I may have clamps down on them too tightly with the Allen screw
#4
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#5
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MAF sensors are the same left to right. the only difference is one side to the other the sensor is flipped around which is ok since left to right they're mirrored.
do you have any engine codes?
do you have any engine codes?
#6
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Update.... With CEL.... See below
Last edited by 95gsrturbo; 12-07-2022 at 10:19 PM.
#7
The only thing i can think of is a wire harness ground has fallen off or your fuel pump has failed. I haven't tried it, but my assumption is that the engine will run with the MAF sensors unplugged/failed. Just won't rev without stuttering is my guess.
Could you check fuel pressure at key on with STAR/DAS?
Could you check fuel pressure at key on with STAR/DAS?
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#8
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Update:
Got up this morning early... Took everything off and put it back one... ONE SIDE AT A TIME.. to see if it was driver or passenger side issue... Well .. it was neither...
After putting both on together... Started fine a few times... Trip around the block... INITIALLY was a bit choppy in comfort , sport and S+ we're fine...
Drive it to work... 10 mins in CEL
Pulled a code.
I get a P0101 (MAF sensor)
Could be I messed up the MAF, could be a vacuum leak.... Could it be the boxes don't sit flush or that they don't sit well in the rubber intake? It is a tight fit?
The MAF look clean... Should I just get new ones to be safe?
Car drives now at least.
Got up this morning early... Took everything off and put it back one... ONE SIDE AT A TIME.. to see if it was driver or passenger side issue... Well .. it was neither...
After putting both on together... Started fine a few times... Trip around the block... INITIALLY was a bit choppy in comfort , sport and S+ we're fine...
Drive it to work... 10 mins in CEL
Pulled a code.
I get a P0101 (MAF sensor)
Could be I messed up the MAF, could be a vacuum leak.... Could it be the boxes don't sit flush or that they don't sit well in the rubber intake? It is a tight fit?
The MAF look clean... Should I just get new ones to be safe?
Car drives now at least.
#10
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#12
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I can't say that I didn't really do anything to affect this except to jiggle the air box cover into it....I would assume the best thing to do would be to just push down it to ensure it's in place?
#13
Check that it's seated by trying to jiggle it: it shouldn't move at all. When properly seated and clicked in it's very solid. You don't want to push down until you're sure it's aligned correctly. If it's really loose and off the intake opening pushing too hard could break tabs and or damage seating surface.
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#14
P0101 equates to "Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Range/Performance". this occurs when the sensor is measuring out of configured range defined by the computer for diagnostics purposes. this code is triggered with supercharged tunes due to the excess of airflow. remapping of the MAF sensors are required to prevent this code as more airflow is being seen across the MAF sensors. diagnostics and sensor checks for the ME 9.7 are very accurate.
since this is new for you and your tune (factory or aftermarket since that hasn't changed recently) has never thrown this code before, i'd possibly recommend cleaning your MAF sensors, but this code doesn't necessarily mean your MAF sensors are bad. could mean they're bad, but also could be other factors. I would possibly try swapping out known good MAF sensors if cleaning your existing ones don't help. a vacuum leak or unseated airbox wouldn't generally cause this code as it is mainly if the sensor is dirty thus reading low or if the sensor is reading excessive airflow. enough that only something like a supercharger provides.
since this is new for you and your tune (factory or aftermarket since that hasn't changed recently) has never thrown this code before, i'd possibly recommend cleaning your MAF sensors, but this code doesn't necessarily mean your MAF sensors are bad. could mean they're bad, but also could be other factors. I would possibly try swapping out known good MAF sensors if cleaning your existing ones don't help. a vacuum leak or unseated airbox wouldn't generally cause this code as it is mainly if the sensor is dirty thus reading low or if the sensor is reading excessive airflow. enough that only something like a supercharger provides.
Last edited by eightysixtuned; 12-08-2022 at 12:31 PM.
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2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
You have an air leak. Your MAFs don’t just both spontaneously go bad at the same time.
Check the air box to y-pipe and y-pipe to intake manifold connections. Sometimes the rubber gets folded in or otherwise distorted creating leaks.
Check the air box to y-pipe and y-pipe to intake manifold connections. Sometimes the rubber gets folded in or otherwise distorted creating leaks.
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#17
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#19
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Update again.
Removed boxes and reinstalled
Cleared the codes
Drive for 3 days... All good
Posted here that it was fine...
Drive to the pharmacy 1/4 mile from home aaannndd code is back. FML
Back at it tonight I guess
------
On another note ....(butt Dyno related)
After I cleaned my air filters I hear more snap crackle pop when I slow down and I dont have a crackle tune.
Removed boxes and reinstalled
Cleared the codes
Drive for 3 days... All good
Posted here that it was fine...
Drive to the pharmacy 1/4 mile from home aaannndd code is back. FML
Back at it tonight I guess
------
On another note ....(butt Dyno related)
After I cleaned my air filters I hear more snap crackle pop when I slow down and I dont have a crackle tune.
Last edited by 95gsrturbo; 12-12-2022 at 12:59 PM.
#20
Update again.
Removed boxes and reinstalled
Cleared the codes
Drive for 3 days... All good
Posted here that it was fine...
Drive to the pharmacy 1/4 mile from home aaannndd code is back. FML
Back at it tonight I guess
------
On another note ....(butt Dyno related)
After I cleaned my air filters I hear more snap crackle pop when I slow down and I dont have a crackle tune.
Removed boxes and reinstalled
Cleared the codes
Drive for 3 days... All good
Posted here that it was fine...
Drive to the pharmacy 1/4 mile from home aaannndd code is back. FML
Back at it tonight I guess
------
On another note ....(butt Dyno related)
After I cleaned my air filters I hear more snap crackle pop when I slow down and I dont have a crackle tune.
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BLKROKT (12-12-2022)