M156 Cam upgrade
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
M156 Cam upgrade
Hi team,
Im thinking about upgrading my cams (might as well if I have to replace them) so interested to hear any feedback on who is running what etc.
Im planning on keeping it NA and just want some drop-in cams so i don't have to do any headwork (except for new lifters)
Im thinking about upgrading my cams (might as well if I have to replace them) so interested to hear any feedback on who is running what etc.
Im planning on keeping it NA and just want some drop-in cams so i don't have to do any headwork (except for new lifters)
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
#4
Junior Member
tons of threads with different people debating cam upgrades. There are billet cams that are quite pricey, and also regrinds that are less pricey but we are limited in lift because of clearance in the head and valvesprings. SickSVT has a thread where he has custom regrinds from webcamshafts with way more duration than stock tuned by Barry and he seems to be having good results but we do not have a dyno of "before vs after".
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
also 63 motorsports offering cam upgrades - https://www.63motorsports.com/m156-s...dass-camshafts
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#8
Unless you already need to replace worn stock camshafts, hold off on the performance cams until there are dyno proven gains that justify the cost.
The only dyno I've seen for cams on an M156 showed basically the same power as any other full bolt-on M156. That car may not have been tuned for the cams, but I find it odd that nobody, including the companies who produce them, has showed up anywhere with any evidence of significant gains.
All that said, if I ever wear my cams out and they need to be replaced anyway, I will probably upgrade to these and see what happens.
The only dyno I've seen for cams on an M156 showed basically the same power as any other full bolt-on M156. That car may not have been tuned for the cams, but I find it odd that nobody, including the companies who produce them, has showed up anywhere with any evidence of significant gains.
All that said, if I ever wear my cams out and they need to be replaced anyway, I will probably upgrade to these and see what happens.
#9
Newbie
I’m running 63Motorsport Stage 1 direct drop in cams and car runs great. I personally wasn’t looking to go aggressive on the cams. Everything from them is super nice quality I think. Also running all titanium hardware and lock plates from them as well.
The following users liked this post:
Ashley Mason (02-23-2024)
#11
another happy 63motorsports cam customer here as well. he has dyno results posted on his website for those interested. The stage 1 cams are meant to be factory replacements which i decided to do because my factory cams were shot and getting 63motorsports to refinish them was cheaper and more durable than new Mercedes cams.
The following users liked this post:
Ashley Mason (02-23-2024)
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
#14
Member
did the sound change?
#15
Newbie
I think the sound at idle changed a little but still sounds stock to the family. I replaced them as a “while I’m in there” I already had them out to do the head studs and had a spare set to send in before the motor was pulled. So I figured why not.. The camshafts were done just for reliability not for performance gains personally in my build.
Last edited by AnGrE63; 02-24-2024 at 11:19 PM.
#16
Senior Member
Hi,
What is the paste type lube on the follower contact point?
If it was me I would be changing the oil after short dive and than the oil and filter after a longer drive that should remove all the paste lube.
I think oil is very cheap and the more often it is changed gives the best long term result.
What is the paste type lube on the follower contact point?
If it was me I would be changing the oil after short dive and than the oil and filter after a longer drive that should remove all the paste lube.
I think oil is very cheap and the more often it is changed gives the best long term result.
#17
Hi,
What is the paste type lube on the follower contact point?
If it was me I would be changing the oil after short dive and than the oil and filter after a longer drive that should remove all the paste lube.
I think oil is very cheap and the more often it is changed gives the best long term result.
What is the paste type lube on the follower contact point?
If it was me I would be changing the oil after short dive and than the oil and filter after a longer drive that should remove all the paste lube.
I think oil is very cheap and the more often it is changed gives the best long term result.